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New Build-Advice for Wood burning fireplace

10 years ago

Hello,
In the beginning stages of choosing house plans (2500 square feet single story, plus walkout basement) and haven't started working with an architect yet- and would like some advice on fireplace options. We've had a wood burning (traditional) masonry fireplace in our current home that we love and use often (well aware of the inefficiencies, although because of this house layout, our fireplace does produce a lot of heat in the living room without a huge heat draw from the upstairs). No problem with access to cheap wood nor issues with nuisance of wood.

Unfortunately, there is no natural gas on our street, so we will have propane for cooking. Since we have no NG, all of our primary heat options are expensive (live in New England so propane/oil and/or heat pump, geothermal), so we really want to use wood to offset those costs (obviously, traditional open fireplace won't cut it).

My question is, what are the most economical options for a new fireplace w/ insert. Do we hire masonry guys to build a fireplace, then have an insert retrofitted or are there fireplace with insert options out there? We do like the look of stone, and a hearth is a must. Also love the idea of a see through fireplace with the other side opening to outside, but since the outside of the living room will likely be a wood deck, not sure if that will pass code.

Thank you,
nepool

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Comments (5)

gabbythecat
10 years ago
Hmm. I've never seen a double sided insert - does such a thing exist?...In terms of efficiency, you are aware, aren't you, that a wood stove heats better than a fireplace with insert?...I don't know about building a house with fireplace/insert/hearth - just a stone surround for our wood stove would've cost $4000 or so. We decided to use that money elsewhere. Too bad - we're building a log house (expect to be in by Christmas!), a big surround would've been amazing! At any rate, I'm sorry I don't have answers for you except it will likely be costly to do the fireplace/insert route.
nepool
Original Author
10 years ago
Hi Gladys,

I am aware of how much more efficient wood stoves are (and am considering one for the basement), but really want the look of a fireplace in the family room.

I did see a double sided fireplace with what looks like an insert (see link) but am not sure if that is as high efficient as some of the inserts out there for masonry fireplaces.

Setting the double sided feature aside, are there fairly efficient wood burning fireplaces out there that don't require a full masonry chimney? I'm having trouble understanding how the prefab wood burning fireplaces work (why aren't footings required, for example). Investing 10K on a masonry fireplace, then getting an insert is just too much money, but building a masonry fireplace and letting most of the heat go up the chimney doesn't make sense either.

thanks

Here is a link that might be useful: Acucraft Fireplace
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Just a regular Demolition contractor would do it. I don't see why it would require a permit, but, the only way to really find out is to ask your local building department. The reason I say it's tricky to do yourself is because you will be working at a considerable height to begin with (on a ladder that may be supported by the very structure that you are dismantling) and falling/collapsing bricks can cause damage (place a piece of plywood over the adjacent roof for protection). If you are willing to do this then get up there with a small sledge hammer and knock off the bricks a few at a time. It will get pretty dirty since the inside of the chimney will be coated with soot and creosote. You will probably also want to remove the foundation (which is most likely a concrete slab with footings and reinforcing steel). Rent a jackhammer for that and of course you will need a heavy duty dumpster to throw the debris into. Good luck.
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As you already noted, the smoke comes from colder, heavier air pushing the smoke back down the chimney. The fact that you have an external chimney doesn't help either. For its use right now an outside air kit would probably not help much. I would seriously look at an insulated metal liner but only if you dump that older inefficient rather dangerously installed insert for a newer clean-burning insert, like maybe an Avalon Olympic. I have a small freestanding wood stove in a chimney like yours with an insulated liner and it drafts like a charm. I burned two cords of wood in it last year, swept the flue this past weekend and had less than a 1/2 gallon of very fine soot in the liner.
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D K and Sons / All: This stuff still hasn't fully hardened. It's clay-like still. I bought it from Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hercules-1-2-gal-Furnace-Stove-Cement-35515/202078154 Directions of use: "Surface to be joined or repaired should be clean and free of any old cement or debris. Clean surface and remove paint, grease, or oil before applying furnace cement. Wash cleaned area with water. Do not apply to very hot surfaces; wait until surfaces cool down. Apply thin layer of cement covering all openings. Press tightly into section or part being repaired or sealed. Apply liberal second layer of cement and smooth with trowel. If adding adjoining sections, place gently and avoid any twisting motions. Remove excess cement and smooth edges. Start heat using low temperatures for initial firing. Gradually increase the temperature allowing the cement to cure to a solid and durable mass, free from pores. Full firing may follow. Always keep container tightly covered when not in use." They talk about a "firing" and using heat. It's unclear exactly what I should do though. Doesn't say anything about how long it would take to dry. I'm confused. Thoughts? Thanks.
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christopherh
10 years ago
I don't know about a two sided insert, but do a Bing images for "built in wood stoves". My neighbor had one installed and it looks great.

These are airtight woodburners that have all the effects of a fireplace. And some manufacturers like Regency www.regency-fire.com have lifetime warranties.

I live in Vermont and woodstoves are common here. When we first built we didn't have a stove, but installed it shortly thereafter. It paid for itself in oil savings in two years.
akamainegrower
10 years ago
If you're serious about using wood as a primary heat source, a free standing woodstove is the best choice. You can then decide between a masonry chimney and a triple walled metal one. A hearth can be anything you want it to be as long as the code restrictions are met. Building an expensive full masonry fireplace and then putting in an insert seems an unwise and unnecessary use of a lot of money. Inserts do not put out as much heat and require electricity to run the (usually annoyingly loud) blower. Basement woodstoves are often a bad idea as well. Poor draft is frequently an issue, then there's the heat circulation problem, access for bringing in wood, and the fact that a stove in the basement is almost never as closely watched as one in the main living area. This last is an important safety issue.
nepool
Original Author
10 years ago
We really want a fireplace on the main floor, not a wood stove. The basement will be a full walkout- but we aren't committed to a wood stove down there.

I've done a little more research, and I think what I'm looking for is an "EPA" efficient fireplace. Something like this... Thoughts?

Here is a link that might be useful: EPA efficient Fireplace-Lennox Ladera

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