Kiko, I don't know if you got my last email. These cabinets are fairly common where I live so not a big turn off to buyers as they will see them often if they are looking at custom homes built in the 1970s-1980s. I just came across one today while browsing homes for sale. This one looks completely original and shows a detail that really bugged me about this cabinet builder - the cabinet that housed the double oven. I also had a pantry the same height and noticed you had something that height. They may not be a problem for tall people, but I couldn't get to the cabinets over them. I changed that with our remodel. I talked to my friend who had the same cabinets, thought I might get a picture of them painted for you. But she painted some, disliked the way they looked painted, mainly because the dust showed up so much more than when they were stained, and she replaced them with plain doors.

Just incase anyone else is having this problem of the loud pop on start up of your over the range type whirlpool microwave oven, I had this exact problem and found the problem to be an arcing high voltage capacitor. Well it wasn't the capacitor itself but the wires connected to it that was arcing on my unit. I had to take the whole cover off of the microwave to see the charred wires. To repair this make sure it's unplugged of course and discharge the high voltage capacitor with a screw driver. This is very dangerous if you don't know what you are doing, so please do a search on google about this first if your not sure about it. After making sure there is no voltage on the cap, remove the wires from the capacitor with some needle nose pliers and use electrical tape or some heat shrink tubing to insulate the areas on the wires that were causing the arcing. I believe the main problem was due to the way they routed the wires on the capacitor so the bottom wire ran vertically right up against the top terminal of the capacitor which created a point where the cap would discharge as soon as the microwave was turned on. In any case by simply re-routing the wires so they aren't so close together and providing better insulation, you will never hear that popping sound again unless the magnetron fails. That is also a common thing to go bad in a microwave oven but is not the culprit in this case. My wife is still scared to turn the microwave oven on due to threat of a loud pop but it has never popped again after doing the simple fix described above. Mine actually started arcing so bad that it popped repeatedly and blew out the line fuse. That's when I finally took it apart and figured out what was going on. It works flawlessly now. There is no need to be afraid to boil water or create steam on your range. This was definitely a wiring issue from the manufacture. My model number is WMH3205XVS-1.

These are Asian cabinets, probably chinese. Shekia Group, LLC. which sells cabinets under the Forevermark trade name is not a domestic manufacturer, but an importer of wooden kitchen cabinets. The cabinets are known to be sourced from: Saicq International Trading Company, Ltd (China) Shanghai Yibal International Trading Company, Ltd (China) Harbin Golden Rich Furniture Co., Ltd. (Korea) Sha Yibai International Trading Co., Ltd. (China), and Shanghai Hongjia Kitchen Bath Co., Ltd. (China), There are probably others. These are the ones we have been able to identify for certain from customs and import records. The cabinets are shipped from Asia disassembled (knocked down) and need to be assembled. They may have been assembled in an assembly facility before you saw them, or they may have been put together in your home as part of installation. They are sold both ways. Something happened to the backs. It looks like the may have gotten wet, or some projection on the wall behind the cabinets is pressing on the backs enough to deform them. Or, it may be a simple as somebody stepped on a pile of them during assembly. In any case, it does not look like the failure is structural, just cosmetic. It's an easy repair, though, so don't worry. The proper fix is to cut a thin plywood panel (1/8" thick max., 3/32nds is better) the exact size of the back of the cabinets, painted to match the existing finish, and glue it to the back as a skin. Powergrab is the best adhesive for this job. Careful, precise cutting is the key to a good job. Any "cabinetmaker" should be able to do it easily. If there is something pressing on the back of the cabinets that is causing stress, the pressure must be relieved by cutting around the cracked area, then pounding or sanding down the projection until it is below the surface of the back (unless it is a pipe, of course, then no pounding, please.). The result is a completely invisible repair and does not rely on the long-term durability of colored caulk or patching compound for continued good looks. We then seal around th edges with a clear siliconized latex caulk (bathroom caulk with mildew retarders). It probably is not necessary, but for me it creates a nice "finished" look, and fills any tiny crevices where micro-critters could hide. You can get this thin plywood at specialty panel suppliers. It is used a lot in furniture-making and musical instruments. How do I know about this? Well, remember the idiot that stomped on a pile of backs? Could have been me. I'm not saying it was, but it could have been. Maybe. A long time ago. Maybe before cabinets were even invented. . . . The repair panel material is thin enough that you should not have to cut down your shelves, but stiff enough to prevent any defects in the cabinet backs from "telegraphing" through to the applied panel. The repair will also conceal some of the sloppiness of the installation. The crew should have at least capped the screw heads they seem to have installed at random to make them less visible. This installation would never have passed my inspection. Hope this helps. And, good luck.

Linda - Sounds like a fort! Both you and Casey might have something there about the boiler and coal rooms. Although the basement has been completely redone, the concrete (seen from inside two closets) could have possibly been an area of the like. Makes sense! There were some pipes going up into the concrete. I did not take the time to check out what the pipes connected to. Seems to me that we looked at a home last year that had a "fireproof" ceiling in the basement where the still working boiler stood. I remember thinking that the basement would be hard to finish out because of that ceiling. It was not flat. The basement room really wasn't large enough to do anything with it. In this current home, the basement is huge! Casey - The servants bedrooms and bath are over the existing kitchen. I do hope the bedroom floors are not concrete should we decided to make the move. Linda - Thankfully, the kitchen has been redone with new plumbing and electrical. It's a rather large kitchen for the era of the home. There is also a pour concrete terrace. What I don't understand is that there are 4 chimneys, but only one fireplace. The chimneys look as though they are within the house and not running up an outside wall. There are no "bump outs" inside the house to indicate a fireplace or chimney was covered up or once there. I guess the others were used for coal or boilers? Perhaps ducts run through the walls???