Why all my green onions are so willowy?
toffee123
4 years ago
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Why did all my petunias in my planters die so quickly?
Comments (20)Hi grny28, I am going to refer to The Ortho Problem Solver, seventh edition on this, because I am no expert on Petunias (zinnias are my "thing"). The book's coverage on Petunia problems starts on page 262 and continues onto page 264. It has articles on Gray Mold (everywhere in the US), Smog Damage (limited to relatively small coastal areas), Caterpillars, Cutworm Damage, and the last article on Crown and Root Rot (everywhere in the US) seems the most likely culprit. Crown and Root Rot is caused by Phytophthora (I don't think you can say that without spitting a little), a fungus that lives in the soil. It initially attacks the roots or stem at or just below the soil level. The dark dry decay of the lower stem tissue and roots reduces the flow of water to the leaves and flowers, causing the petunia to wilt and die. Crown and Root Rot is common in heavy poorly drained wet soils. The fungus (Phytophthora) is spread by contaminated soil, transplants, and tools. The solution is to remove and destroy infected plants and all the soil within 6 inches of their roots. How do you destroy soil? Well, I guess you could throw it into an incinerator, but I would just put it a plastic bag and send it to the landfill with the rest of the garbage. To prevent a recurrence of Crown and Root Rot, you should improve your soil drainage and drench it with a fungicide containing Captan. That's what the Ortho book says. Repeat the drench monthly during the growing season and let the soil dry out between waterings. I try to avoid problems of this sort with my zinnias by adding a lot of sand to my garden soil to create a sandy loam, and I add Perlite to my indoor growing medium to increase its drainage. "They were planted in larger containers along with other plants that are fine, What are the chances of a disease from so many different nurseries?" Many plants aren't susceptible to Phytophthora, and the problem is in your soil or growing medium, and not at the different nurseries. ZM (not associated with any product or vendor mentioned or linked)...See MoreI wondered why my greens were doing so well
Comments (5)now, that is totally halarious!!! something everyone can laugh at!! **big smile** Dang that is good!! ~Medo Here is a link that might be useful: Barehanded Totally Nutso Gardener **big grinn** :'}...See MoreHelp with my green onions
Comments (8)Mary is right. I have the same multiplying onions I've grown for probably 35 years, maybe longer that I got a start of from someone at the old Valley of the Sun Men's Garden Club. They are in the ground. Doesn't take a lot of room. They are dying down now, but I was surprised today to see some green coming back already. That doesn't usually happen until August or so. They might be confused with this unusual weather we've had this Spring. If you pull up a bunch, separate and plant each one fairly deep, you'll get a decent small green onion before it starts to bunch again, but we use these mainly for cutting the tops for chives. I buy a bag of onion sets in the fall when they come out and stick a few in the ground every 10 or 14 days for really nice green onions thru out the winter. I don't have enough room to grow the brown cooking onions, altho they do very well here in the Valley. We used to go to the onion fields when they were harvesting and buy a 50# bag for almost nothing. Don't know if they still do that or not. The dry onions we grow here are generally not a good long term keeper. Brown onions are generally pretty cheap in the stores here, and whoever has the best price when we need some, we can just price match at WM so don't need or want 50# at a time anymore....See MoreWhy do some onion sets produce onion bulbs while other do not?
Comments (13)Anyone in the South who is more familiar with this then me, please correct me, but my understanding is that in that region, the short day onions are grown over winter to start bulbing in spring once the daylight hours start to increase. So, I get your premise that onions planted at the height of summer, once the length of day hits ~10-12 hours in later summer or early fall, it will still trigger the same bulbing response. I am not sure, the fact that daylight hours in late June/early July already exceed the necessary 10-12 hours, they might just start to bulb as soon as you plant them. There is also the limiting factor of season length to contend with. (And technically speaking, plants respond to length of nighttime darkness rather than length of daytime light, but we still talk about it as long/short day.)...See MoreCA Kate z9
4 years agotoffee123
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4 years agonanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoSherry8aNorthAL
4 years agoHighColdDesert
4 years agoRysanna 8b
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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