Jades I just purchased on Facebook
Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
4 years agoRelated Discussions
All about Jades and what lighting a varigated jade needs
Comments (12)Thanks Caudex, for posting your zone info. While walking my dog this AM I noticed that the jade bush which I got my branch cutting from has flower buds (not opened yet) on it! This surprises me because this bush is in a lot of shade. Located on a small side yard slope with many very tall cyprus trees planted in front of it and a tall dark colored wood fence behind it. I literally have to peek between the cyprus looking for the bush and yet it has flowers. Further on my walk there is a full block of jade bushes in full sun. They took quite a beating during our 110 degree week recently. They have no flower buds and one branch has turned black and sort of charcoal like, dying off and crunchy. Other jades on my walk in full sun also have no buds yet. Interesting! The shaded jade never has red tips on it, truly is in a dark area with only peaks of light at certain times of the day. No buds on mine yet....See Morecultural issue with jade..old jade
Comments (6)I would give it a total makeover. In that I mean that I would bare root the thing, carefully so as not to damage too many roots, and give it a home in the gritty mix. Jades are a tough plant, usually only being vulnerable to root rot, and occasional mealy bugs, which can be a serious problem if left unchecked. Anyway, it won't be easy to do this kind of work on such a large plant, which is why I never buy anything that big. But, for $9, I don't know that I could have passed it up either. I don't know you, so I have to take your word that such a large plant costed only $9, and if you truly did, someone made a mistake or is a complete moron. I was at a nursury looking around, and they had several large jades. They had a 6 foot variegated one for $1500. The 2 to 3 footers themselves were around $100. Enough on that. As for how to approach such a job, well, it'd probably be easiest to make some contraption to gently snag on the trunk, and hang it from something. If you use rags or old cut up t-shirts to make straps, you can snug them up around the trunk below some thick branches. You'll need a few to keep the pressure off any one spot. You then strategically loop a rope through the straps, and hoist it up. Then you'll have to sit injun style and loosen up the roots, which can be tough when they intertwine. After removing ALL the peat soil and washing the roots, remove any that look rotted. Then lower into the new pot, one that is big enough to fit the root ball, with a couple inches to spare around the edge. Fill with gritty mix, making sure to get the soil in around all the roots. For support, you can use plastic spring loaded clamps, found at your local hardware store or big box store. Also get some romex cable, the type used for electrical wiring in houses. Romex cable is thick enough not to damage the tree when you wrap it around the trunk. It is a bundle of solid wires, so it bends good, and provides rigid support. Put 3 or 4 clamps on the pot rim, and use these to run your support cables to. Do this while to plant is still supported by the hanging contraption. Then, you need to figure out how you're going to move this monsterous heavy tree. Hold off on watering for a week after the repot to allow any damaged roots to heal. Again, this project is going to suck, and you'll be asking why in the tarnation you bought it. For a piece of mind, I've done this before, only with a 7 foot tall madagascar palm tree. I had to wrap it in fiberglass insulation to prevent breaking the huge thorns before making the custom noose. As for where to set your jade, well, if it was in shade, then start with that. Slowly acclimate it to the sunny spot where you intend to keep it. Good luck! Joe...See Moreand I just started looking at facebook
Comments (6)Schrems was surprised to discover, among the 1,222 pages of data covering three years of Facebook activity, not only deleted wall posts and messages, some with sensitive personal information, but e-mail addresses he'd deleted and names he'd removed from his friends list. Well of course it's still there. It off the page but still archived. that goes for almost anything and everything you post on the net. It's not a Facebook issue. It's part of the new age we live in. You can burn a letter or paper doc. You can't burn content off the internet. You can clean your own house but once it's out thee it is out there. I hope he has what it takes to be a better lawyer. He's not a very savvy IT guy. LOL...See MoreShould I prune my jade?
Comments (12)That's what I would do if it was my plant. Pruning the stretched growth and getting new leaves to grow. Here is something Al (tapla) posted about thickening the trunk: tapla Think of your trunk as a river and each branch as a stream, and each leaf as a brook, all tributaries of the river. Removing streams/brooks (branches/leaves) causes the river to flow (thicken) at a reduced rate. Plants can grow multiplicatively (more branches and leaves) or additively (thicker). Both types of growth occur in meristematic regions; extension and new meristems from apical meristems at branch tips and thickening from the lateral meristems in cambial tissues. Both elongation and thickening of axes is directly related to the number of cell divisions that occur. As cells divide, new cells are laid down in files and are causal of thickening. Since the number of new cells formed IS what determines the amount of thickening, and the number of new cells formed is directly related to food (photosynthate) production, we can say with certainty that there exists a direct relationship between the amount of thickening in the longitudinal axes and the area of the photosynthesizing surface (the number/size of leaves on the plant). From this we see that by removing branches that support viable foliage and/or removal of individual leaves, we reduce axial thickening in direct relation to the photosynthesizing surface area removed. So, as Rina and Rooftop suggested, removing leaves and branches can only have the direct effect of diminishing the rate of thickening in the longitudinal axes. Another post from Al: Hi, Andrey. When we remove branches we remove leaves, thereby reducing the plant's photosynthesizing surface and it's ability to create food from the sun's energy. Less food means fewer cell divisions, so not as many cells laid down in the cambium where thickening occurs. So, no question, removing foliage retards thickening of the trunk and branches. If you want more side branches, removing the plants apices (growing branch tips/ apical meristems) removes most of the source of auxin, the growth regulator responsible for suppressing lateral breaks (side branches). This allows cytokinin, the growth regulator that stimulates lateral breaks to become dominant, which stimulates axillary and adventitious buds to grow - so more branching. Also, maximizing light while ensuring good air movement and appropriate fertility causes more secondary growth. Al Here is whole thread those 2 post are in: -click here- Perhaps you may find interesting reading whole thread, few other questions are answered....See MoreStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6 thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5aStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6 thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5aStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6 thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5aStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
4 years ago
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