All right. I think I like this. The old sink window stays put. The other window gets moved right next to the old one - (I did this in my bathroom and love it!! ) Fridge - since this is an interior wall - I can recess no problem. Even better... this particular wall is about 7.5 inches deep because it houses a big pipe - I assume sewer pipe? and that is very close to the corner where it meets the exterior wall. I can gain these two inches behind the fridge PLUS .5 inches minimum when swapping plaster for drywall... and then can recess the fridge a few inches into the wall. My fridge is 31" deep without the handle (32" with the required back clearance) - so I can get this fairly close to flush with the front of the pantry. The way the hinges are, I can have the door flush with cabinets. The doors can swing open fully without crashing into anything and the close corner on the U ends up being a very close set down space. Pantry - I have up to 36 inches here. I was thinking of having 2 15" pullouts and a 5 inch broom pullout against the wall... Each of these could be pulled out all the way without crashing into the dishwasher cabinet.. and since they are accessed from the side anyway, the small area in front may not be a problem since we wouldnt really stand there anyway, other than to reach in for the broom. I have about 25" of clearance to pull them out and could possibly gain 2 or 3 more if I can take a few inches off the back of one or two of them (that pipe) Do I need drywall behind a floor to ceiling cabinet with a solid wood back? Right now I am really leaning toward Ikea boxes with custom fronts for the base and pantry cabinets. - I read that 2-3 inches of the back of these are empty space anyway. Dishwasher on the end - would be out of the way other than if someone needed access to pantry or fridge. I really dont think this would be a big problem - we dont usually load or unload while someone is cooking. Sink is centered with the two windows. Range is centered with set down space on both sides Peninsula is now prep area - which wasnt my first choice but could be nice. Would prep sink go on end or in corner? I see very separate zones - with them flowing nicely ... prep to cook, to cleanup... cons - Set down space for fridge and pantry is not near the prep area. Dish storage is not above dishwasher. Peninsula becomes main prep area. would need a prep sink. Would not work well to have lower counter height on peninsula. Just had another idea.. but here are these pics for now! :)

Can you post a rough sketch (straight lines are not required!) of this floor of your home so we can see how they relate to each other? If you can note each rooms wall lengths and door and window locations, I'm betting there's a good solution out there that we just haven't come up with yet because we still don't have a very good feel for the existing layout. It's really too hard to get a complete idea with just photos. It would also help If you let us know your budget. That will help us know if we can dream big, or we need to keep to modest changes. One of the first thoughts I have, even without seeing your floorpan, is maybe you could split up the room next to the in-law suite (your current dining room I think?) so that part of it combines with the in-law suite to make that a little bigger, and part of it combines with that little extra room that's really just a hallway and plant area now, so that it makes the dining room bigger. (Again this is all based on whether or not I'm understanding which room is which, but I hope you are understanding my idea.) Now, it would be more expensive than just tearing down one wall, because you would be tearing down two walls and building a third, but maybe that would make the perfect size dining space, and you'd have a little bit bigger in-law suite as well. That could be a win-win. And now, you or others can say that can't possibly work because of this or that, (or maybe it does) and someone else has an idea, and so on. So please give us a rough sketch. That could be just the thing for someone to come up with a brilliant idea.

Jennifer, Charles Ross Homes above answered the question in the OP. This isn't the same as buying a product from Amazon and having it shipped to you. You can't get pricing for major construction over the net and have it be accurate for your area. A reputable contractor needs to come to your home and give you an estimate based on the work you plan to do. For accuracy you will need the specifications to provide to the contractor so you can get an accurate estimate. Labor is local and will affect pricing. Your specs may be different than the OP's specs so the "super rough ballpark" that you suggested doesn't work either unless you have a quote like: Anywhere from $10k to eleventy million - a quote so wide it's meaningless but protects the contractor from surprises. Spend the money to determine the specs and put them out to bid. Good luck!

Removing a wall in certain types of layouts is not always the best idea because it creates a bigger but undifferentiated space. Say this were a wall without the bookshelves. Right now you have two of your largest pieces of furniture essentially 5 inches apart, a big hutch and a sofa. If there were no wall there you would never have two separate-function furniture groupings 5" apart, or back to back like this. You've lost a natural spot for both the sofa and the hutch. You have another spot for the hutch, but you would probably not float the sofa too close to the dining area, so where does it go? Sometimes opened up spaces just end up looking like open plan furniture showrooms, with groupings one against the other and while it's more open, I am not sure a lot of function is gained. Just things to consider.