It won't help you, but here is my comment. Gluing as well as nailing is an installation method in some parts of the country, the idea being that it helps to prevent wide width flooring from moving too much during seasonal changes. Creaking noises I can understand, but 'popping' noises usually means that the floor boards are momentarily sticking to the back of the boards and releasing; that might account for the noises you are hearing. If a urethane-type adhesive was used, then I doubt the phenomenon would be happening. There are other adhesives, such as something we call the 'drytack' types, which might create conditions that would make the noises you are hearing likely to happen. How is the groove larger than the tongue? I would think that as well would not be a good thing, as it might allow more movement at the tongue and groove meeting. Anyone else have ideas for dkriggs? Oh...BTW...Happy New Year everyone!

Engineered or not...the problem is with the floor prep. New builds HATE to use the 'good stuff'. The builders want as much profit as possible = super cheap building materials and "guys" to install. They do NOT like working with 'flooring professionals'. Why? Because they cost MORE then 'dude with hammer'. So...new build = no floor prep. This is SUPER COMMON and can void your hardwood warranty in a heart beat. As CT points out, you need to find out the installation requirements and request, in WRITING, the details of the installation from the GC. It is up to the BUILDER to PROVE that every "i" was dotted and every "t" crossed. If not, the BUILDER holds the warranty that they just VOIDED. And just for fun...the very FIRST thing you will be asked = what is the indoor air temperature and HUMIDITY??? Things get noisy as they dry out. Humidity in your home is EXTREMELY important. Because things are getting worse (noisier) I suspect the humidity is NOT being maintained. Check your HVAC system to see where you have your humidity set at (if you have a humidistat you should be able to change the humidity at the push of a button - just like temperature). If you do not have a humidity stat, then you can go out and purchase a cheap hygrometer at any home improvement store. Should be about $30. The installation and subfloor prep (or lack thereof) is the builder's responsibility and s/he must be able to PROVE site conditions where met. This trumps EVERYTHING. The living conditions RIGHT NOW are the homeowner's responsibility which can void any warranty if the right conditions aren't met. That's why you need to know what YOUR HOME is doing to the flooring. If it is too dry/too humid you will need to correct that ASAP. So that no one can point a finger at you, the homeowner.

Choosing the right flooring type isn't enough for your living condition. You will have to consider the types of cut: flat sawn, rift and quarter sawn, quarter sawn or live sawn. Quarter sawn and rift & quarter sawn will be best choices, because expansion and contraction is along the thickness of the wood. You will need climate control all year round. 70 degrees at 40 % relative humidity is where you want to be throughout the year. The use of a humidifier/dehumidifier will be needed year round. Although, engineered flooring is more stable than solid. Using the wrong wood specie in your living condition can run the risk of de-laminating with engineered wood. If, the top veneer is more or less stable than it's core and backing. You will experience de-laminating in extreme humidity swings. Take in account of what the engineered flooring is constructed of: mdf or plywood. The width of the flooring will account for how much expansion and contracting also. 2 1/4" strips are the most stable. As you go wider, expect to see more wider seasonal gaps. Proper acclimating is critical, should be performed with a moisture meter. For 2 1/4" strip flooring , sub-floor and flooring moisture should be within 4%. For all other widths 2% moisture differentiation is allowed or should not be exceeded. Don't forget proper expansion gaps, which is the thickness of your flooring, example: 3/4" thick = 3/4" gap. Sub-floor type and condition will affect the performance of wood floors. All this needs to be considered for the proper and successful performance of your wood floors.

What type of radiant heat do you have? You need to choose the floor that ALLOWES for your type of in-floor radiant heat. Don't listen to the company that makes the heating system. They are not the final word. The company that manufacturers your floors will be the one's who say how and why and why not to use their floors. Do you have whole home humidity control (either a whole home dehumidifier or a whole home humidifier or both)? If you do not, you may want to do that FIRST. Wide plank wood needs consistent humidity. That means a pin-point accurate range between 40%-60% (I prefer to see a range like 45%-55%). You should never have swings wider than 10%. And it is up to the flooring manufacturer to list their requirements. Some prefer to see 35-55%. Other prefer 45-65%. Again you must follow the FLOORING manufacturer. In-floor radiant heat can be drying. The closer the wood is to the heat source the drier the wood becomes...and then we get weird/nasty things happening which are completely outside of warranty.