I plan to keep all my plumeria in the ground, and dig up if there is a threat of a freeze. This is the first year my plants are large enough to bare root store. I plan to keep them in the ground, until we get a freeze warning. Then I will dig them up and store in the carport in the cardboard boxes that will be already in place. If you are close to the water, you have extra protection. My friends that live 5 miles inland had 3 freezes last year, I did not have any. I just need to be sure I am down there, so I can do this. The last freeze I had was 2-6-2010. I covered all my tropical plants with sheets and bungie cords, but forgot to turn off the sprinkler system. What an idiot! Barbra

Let's see, you have a '91 350 V8 with throttle body, Suburban. I'm can't be sure about the setup on these, but I think it still had a distributor, and the timing is taken from a sensor in the distributor. There may be a cam position sensor as well. If it as I remember, there is a timing mark on the vibration damper and a degree plate bolted to the front of the engine or cam chain cover. You mentioned that advancing the timing helped - a clue! Are you sure that the timing mark is in the right place? it's on the vibration damper and these have been known to debond and slip! To test, remove no. 1 sparkplug and position (by hand) no. 1 piston at top dead center, then look at the timing mark. Is it at zero degrees within a couple of degrees, or off the mark. If its off the mark, there's a problem. I have seen these as much as 15 deg off, and still running at idle. For a temporary fix, put a new TDC mark on the damper with white paint, white-out, or other convenient marker and re-time. After this, don't trust the timing mark until you have effected a repair. Once the damper slips, it will continue to slip. After you get it timed properly, do your own tune-ups until a repair has been done. Each time a stranger does a tune-up, the timing is in danger of getting reset to a bogus value. Once set, it has been my experience that the timing does not change until the sensor is changed, and then the change is minor. Check the paint color on the vibration damper and the valve covers of the engine. The colors should match. These engines went into vehicles that had the timing degree plate on either the left or right side. One was painted red and the other blue. I had a friend who intalled replcaement damper but with color mismatch. He had awful timing problems until the problem was discovered.

Thanks Mikie, You give me too much credit for computer knowledge: I do not know what "the Modern Screen" is ... ever notice (may be a statement on my failing old man vision) how much "rn" and "m" look alike? Well on my font and size, which is the default on comphelp dialog. I have not seen the subject problem repeated. But the slow responses to my keying in still goes on for several minutes after a boot up, again several times a day. Suppose it is Avira or some other "good thing" the CUP is really pumping on some task.

I would suggest not installing a double hung window (up and down type). It would be difficult to reach over the counter to open it. With the measurement you provided an awning window would be something to consider. It opens out at the bottom. The crank is located at the bottom and the locking levers are located lower on the sides. Both the crank and locking levers are easy to reach. Over my sink I installed a 40 inch wide by 30 inch high awning window with an 18 inch fixed transom window above (attached to) the awning window. The total size is 40 inches x 48 inches. The fixed transom window has vertical muntins which match the style of my other windows. I used Marvin windows. Marvin has many style options.