Let's see, you have a '91 350 V8 with throttle body, Suburban. I'm can't be sure about the setup on these, but I think it still had a distributor, and the timing is taken from a sensor in the distributor. There may be a cam position sensor as well. If it as I remember, there is a timing mark on the vibration damper and a degree plate bolted to the front of the engine or cam chain cover. You mentioned that advancing the timing helped - a clue! Are you sure that the timing mark is in the right place? it's on the vibration damper and these have been known to debond and slip! To test, remove no. 1 sparkplug and position (by hand) no. 1 piston at top dead center, then look at the timing mark. Is it at zero degrees within a couple of degrees, or off the mark. If its off the mark, there's a problem. I have seen these as much as 15 deg off, and still running at idle. For a temporary fix, put a new TDC mark on the damper with white paint, white-out, or other convenient marker and re-time. After this, don't trust the timing mark until you have effected a repair. Once the damper slips, it will continue to slip. After you get it timed properly, do your own tune-ups until a repair has been done. Each time a stranger does a tune-up, the timing is in danger of getting reset to a bogus value. Once set, it has been my experience that the timing does not change until the sensor is changed, and then the change is minor. Check the paint color on the vibration damper and the valve covers of the engine. The colors should match. These engines went into vehicles that had the timing degree plate on either the left or right side. One was painted red and the other blue. I had a friend who intalled replcaement damper but with color mismatch. He had awful timing problems until the problem was discovered.

I have a 99 olds aurora and the back window rolls down but not up, I took the door panel off and tested the continuity with a fluke meter and then switched the switch with the other passenger door and still no success I tried the button while slowly closing the door as was suggested to someone else the master window control for the rear driver window doesn't work at all, I unplugged the battery for an hour thinking its just the computer needing to reset but again no luck, I just want the window up to protect from rain and for security purposes. Is there a way to bypass the switch or hardware the moter? I took the switch apart and tried bridging the contacts also with no luck. Please help

I would suggest not installing a double hung window (up and down type). It would be difficult to reach over the counter to open it. With the measurement you provided an awning window would be something to consider. It opens out at the bottom. The crank is located at the bottom and the locking levers are located lower on the sides. Both the crank and locking levers are easy to reach. Over my sink I installed a 40 inch wide by 30 inch high awning window with an 18 inch fixed transom window above (attached to) the awning window. The total size is 40 inches x 48 inches. The fixed transom window has vertical muntins which match the style of my other windows. I used Marvin windows. Marvin has many style options.

There are alarms you can purchase that will call phone numbers if the electricity goes out. I had one when I managed a large hog farm. It worked very good. https://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft_thermostats_controllers-ft_alarms_monitors;pg106710.html I am sure there are others, but this is the one we had. I have not hooked it up yet, but I have remote sensors that have a real time internet based controller that I can pull up on my phone. I am putting a sensor in 1 high tunnel, and in the walk in cooler and one for wind speed and direction. All my tunnels are manually vented, so this is always in the back of my mind. What if a storm pops up and I can't get a hold of someone to open or close the buildings.