Hmm I was reluctant to be the first poster and bump you down the list in case somebody had better info....I take your point regarding the vulnerability of the pipes. I had something of a similar situation in a bathroom I'm reworking in my basement, a small wall with all the plumbing plus I wanted to add a laundry tub, rework the washing machine drain into one of those recessed boxes with the drain standpipe and the cutoff valves with the all-in-one lever... So I made a drawing of the wall with the layout of all the pipes and wires and some marks on the doorframe to indicate where the safe anchoring points are. and you could do the same, marks top and bottom of the wall before the drywall goes up that would indicate where **not** to screw/nail. You might want to go over this with whoever is going to fix the cabinets etc and also take a measurement from a corner or a window and keep that paperwork on file (I suppose you will be able to tell from looking under the sink) for future work or for people who purchase the house. Code- wise there may well be a violation as there is usually a minimum setback (how far back into the stud you drill the holes for pipes and wiring) and it sounds like yours are pretty much right there at the surface....no doubt someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I think the setback for wires/pipes is 2" (not gonna work for drains of course) so I don't know what happens with a wall that is accessible from both sides, as you can't have 2" both ways...centre them or make the wall thicker I suppose. Is it an option to make the furring strips thicker? If you could make them 2x4 and put up with a little bit of reduction of room size, it might make all the difference. If there is any neighbour noise at all or heat loss/gain you could then also insulate the wall if you chose....by increasing the setback you eliminate the risk of hitting the pipes and are probably then compliant, if you are going to get an inspection done. Are the pipes side by side (as in one closer to the cinderblock than the other) or next to each other (at equal distances to the cinderblock)? Another thought is to make some sort of 'nailing shield' over it (and I would if you are going to leave it as it is) - normally nail shields/nail guards are short (see the link below) because they are designed to protect pipes and wires running at right angles rather than parallel, as in your case. Another thought would be to make your own nail shield using a suitable piece of steel, like a metal framing stud : http://www.dietrichmetalframing.com/products/ or a piece of steel or aluminium angle if one pipe is behind the other, but in either case you will have to be very careful not to allow the metal to touch the pipes, because you might get corrosion by electrolytic action, you could separate them with a strip of that plastic foam they put under floor plates on concrete floors, or similar. Hope I've given you a few ideas. Here is a link that might be useful: Nail Guard

Copper or brass pipe is permitted if the gas is certified to contain equal to or less than 0.3 grains of hydrogen sulfide per 100 cubic feet of gas and it requires a written confirmation from the gas supplier. IRC- 2414.5.2 & UPC-1210.1.1 Copper tubing used for GAS must be specifically labelled as "Suitable for Gas" Gas lines may not be run through an Air Duct, Chimney, Vent or Plenum. Copper Pipe requires Brazed or approved screwed fittings. IRC-2414.10.2 & UPC-1211.2 Flared fittings may not be used in concealed locations.

When we bought our house we were told that we owned the 120lb tank, so we called a company and had it filled up, only to get a notice 3 weeks after we moved in that it was a rental. There are two of us and we generally heat up water for coffee once a day and cook dinners about 4-5 times a week. we also have a Lexington Forge fireplace heater, that we were told was very efficient, that we use for about a hour or so a day, during the winter. Even though we have regular forced air heat it still feels cold in the house. We went through the tank in just two months. So we used the fireplace heater way less so it would last longer. We had it refilled the first week of January and it is empty already. So in the 4 months we have been here it has cost us 500.00. Does this sound normal? or do we maybe have a leak?

You can easily do this by getting female threaded connectors and use a 3/4" to 1/2" barbed coupling (similar to this). I just connected a drip system using PVC pipes and parts from Home Depot. The people there will tell you its not possible, but that's mostly because HD doesn't sell drip valves and its relatively new tech for the experienced plumbers that work there.