Well... it became more of a custom color. haha We started out with a real light yellow (Glidden paint), but it looked more cream on the walls, so we slowly had the colors added till we got something we liked. Looking around online I'd say it looks more like... http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3124/2785744391_1b97d1f21d.jpg?v=0

Thanks for the responses and for the link, voila. I think something like it might work as an accent just behind the range. I will definitely wait to see the effect of the stone under the window & the other small backsplash before adding another element. The full stone BS behind the coffee station was a last-minute suggestion by KD. It seemed to fit both form & function and that might be all the accent I need. A full stone BS throughout the whole space would be just too much, IMO. The open spaces beneath seem to give the cabinets some visual breathing room with so much island/counter stone. I've always been in the "less is more" camp - almost to a fault - so I'm trying not to dismiss any ideas that might be the perfect finishing touch.

I have a 1928 registered historical house and I am so, so torn on the kitchen. It's a good thing that it's not happening for several years! My initial thought was something like this one. Maybe using those varigated green tiles (usually found on fireplaces) instead of white. I love this kitchen. http://www.houzz.com/projects/4299/ravenswood-manor Right now we have it in the unfitted style (budget!) and just paint for the backsplash. The sink is original from 1928, but the metal cab is from the 50's, and our stove is a Chambers from the 50s I have to say, we DID save and splurge on square-edge tiles for the bathroom and I am SO, SO happy that we did. We did the work ourselves and saved in other areas.

lmao. what Jan said! Although, I had to help out my guys who did my herringbone wood floor. it's the starting point where everyone gets messed up. after that, it's simple. Look up how to properly start a herringbone layout and read it. you need to use a speed square at the end of your tile in order to get the proper middle starting point. much easier to illustrate than trying to write it out here. This is how I showed my guys how to start it. see the blue tape w/the two lines? you have to start on the middle after you mark your corner. that's the only way you will get perfect even cuts on both ends. this is how most do it, and it's not correct IF you want perfectly symmetrical left/right borders. All he's done is set the corner of the tile on the line. doing it like this will leave you w/one side smaller than the other: see how the sides of the window don't match? this is what you don't want. your tile guy should be doing a dry layout in order to determine where he starts so he doesn't get this look or these tiny triangles. Again,,,see how the ends don't match below? the right has longer tiles than the left edge. that's because of the way he started his first tile. And don't do these vertical tiles for your edging. get proper bullnose tiles, pencil liner or a Schluter edge. This is a layout board of my herringbone for my shower. took a few hours in order to get this almost perfect. since this was an odd size, and the tiles were even at 3x12, it couldn't be perfect. the right bottom corner triangle is the only portion that doesn't match. luckily, it's not readily visible! Even the subway tiles are perfectly matched. this layout took hours to get exact, even around the niche. 2x6your 3x9 will be 1/3 larger. 3x9 is a good size for a backsplash. this is a regular 3x6. again, a 3x9 will give you 1/3 longer.