I would have Ethernet cat 5e or 6 runs laid and supplement with Wifi as it will be unlikely to get good whole house coverage with Wifi routers. Wifi Throughput drops as devices are added and/ or the distance from the Wifi router increases. In addition, there are potential security risks depending on the wireless security used.

Electrical: 1. Two-way switches at top and bottom of each stairway iucluding basement stairs. 2, Two-way switches inside house and garage to flood lamps lighting driveway. 3. Outlets on ends or sides of kitchen island counter. 4. Extra outlets in basement. There should be 2 to 3 outlets in the laundry/water softner area. There should be outlets along each basement wall. If you know where your basement workbench will be, install a couple of outlet boxes there. 5. Phone jacks in almost every room and one in the garage. Omit phone jacks in bathrooms and powder rooms. Nust have locations for phone jacks are entry hall or location of your primary phone, kitchen, each bedroom, basement, and garage. Structure: 1. Make sure that a back stoop is included. Often, these are on the model home, but not included in the owner's house plans. It may be an extra, and if so, you won't get one unless it is added. The best time to build a stoop is during basement wall construction. A beam and footing is built into the basement wall below the frost line to support the stoop and keep it in register with the house. 2. Pay attention to the ouside design of entryways, especially the main front entrance. The front step become hazardous in winter if the roof dribbles water and melting snow on the stoop. The stoop becomes iced. Rain gutters are no protection. Figure that gutters will fill with snow and drip over its edge. A cupola over the stoop or a recessed entrance is nice in northern climes. A sheltered entrance is a plus. One caveat: On a two story, the design of the entrance cover should not interfere with ladder placement to the second story roof. 3. Add anti-ice dam sheets on all lower edges of the roof. The best time to install these is when the roof is first built. This sheet is cemented to the roof board. Also, add the same to all roof valleys. 4. Consider the method of attic venting. Older constructions used vents through the roof with soffit vents. Some new constructions are using ridge vents in place of the roof vents. 5. Seal the garage floor before moving in. 6. Add chimney caps to keep birds and vermin out. 7. Inspect the framing before the siding or brick is installed. make sure that all holes are blocked, especially places where wind might penetrate. Typical places were unwanted openings may occur are at the ends of the second story floor joists, and places were the upper floor changes direction or cantilevers over the lower wall. 8. Pre-stain the interior finish wood before it is installed. You'll have to work with your builder and finish carpenter for this. The carpenter may not like to work with stained wood if the color is too dark. Woodwork finishing is easier and faster when the wood has been pre-stained. Its a pain to stain wood after it has been nailed on the walls. Its tough to keep from getting stain on the walls. 9. If there will be decorative ceiling beams, paint the ceiling and pre-stain the beams before these are installed. 10. Carefully plan where the furnace will be located if it will be a high efficiency, gas fired model. These vent through the sidewall of the house and do not use a chimney. Plan the location of the furnace and vent. If the furnace does not use the chimney, a chimney liner may be required for a gas water heater that does use the chimney. (A gas water heater does not warm the chinmey sufficently in winter to prevent condensation.)

First, Square D makes an interlock kit for several models of their panels. When the architect is planning the dwelling, he needs to be aware of your desire for a generator backup in case of loss of utility power. By segregating lights from plugs, the refer, furnace, AC if necessary, Microwave and a plug circuit or 2 that will be available in the required locations,(Alarms,TV, computer, modems, phones/chargers) but at least one receptacle per room. With the interlock kit, it has a pair of two pole breakers for the feeds, of which it will either be fed from one or the other. IE, normal conditions it is fed from the house panel or grid, power interruption flip the interlocked breakers and you are now set for gen power to all the loads in the second panel. It is the expense of an extra panel and not automatic this way, but it allows you to use the same brand, type, style of load centers and breakers. AND IT IS NEVER OK TO LOCATE A GENERATOR INDOORS IN A RESIDENTIAL INSTALLATION THAT I HAVE EVER ENCOUNTERED. NEVER! IN A GARAGE. CO IS A KILLER. And keep in mind a generator is one of those things that is better off a tiny bit too big than a tiny bit too small.

rmverb - agreed. I did sort of a hybrid of that - I planned and laid out the low voltage locations and types, and paid my electrician to actually run the wire (which I purchased as well to make sure it was quality) in the walls. Once the sheetrock and paint are up I'll terminate everything on both ends (they have tools now which make this rather easy). It'll take him 2 days, which means it would take me 4 - and I just don't have the time or interest in that. My DIY time can be spent much better - both economically and enjoyment wise. If you don't mind my asking, how much are you paying per drop? I have about 40 drops, and with the cost of wire, boxes, plates, etc. It'll end up around $1600, or $40 per drop. I saw from other posts that new development builders charge around $100 (though of course that includes termination).