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Talk to me about color...
Comments (23)What LRV area should I be looking for? Fifty is the average guideline for residential interiors. It is just that, a guideline. LRV is a helper number, a clue, it's not a formula or a rule. But doesn't it stand to reason that lighter colors are going to have a higher LRV? It is a fact that lighter colors measure upwards towards 100 and darker colors dip down into single digits. I'm looking for a rich color, but I don't want it to look like I'm walking into a tomb. This is where it gets a snidge more complicated. Descriptive aspects of color like richness, depth, complexity do not come from the part of color that is LRV. LRV is a measurement of how much energy (light) a color absorbs and how much energy (light) it reflects. The dimension of color that captures what we perceive as rich or complex is a visual evaluation, not a measurable *part* like LRV. That dimension of color is known by many terms: value, chroma, saturation, tints-tones-shades, grayscale, intensity. How has the color been constructed so that it appears as muted, dulled and how far has it been moved away from its root hue to a true neutral gray -- that's the color wheel thing you've seen with a grayscale bar-type portion running thru the middle of a slice of a basic color wheel. It's the two *parts* together, literal lightness/darkness which is LRV and evaluated lightness/darkness which is intensity that combine to give a color a sense of nuance. Coloring 3D environments and not fully understanding nuance (some concept of nuance not necessarily mine) is a lot like constantly, relentlessly hiking up hill with no downhill breaks -- ever. Partnering nuance with inherent light to meet expectations and tolerances is key to 3D color design .... And that's what I interpret you are seeking when I read this thought: I'm looking for a rich color, but I don't want it to look like I'm walking into a tomb. What you can *do* with this information is still keep a keen eye on LRV. Use LRV as a clue to help you target paint colors, but also examine and evaluate the colors with an awareness of complexity, not just light or dark. You are looking for the right balance that resonates with you, your space, and the quality of daylight and artifical light you have to work with. My guess is that you are wanting to find just the right color with just the right tick of nuance but you really didn't know what you were looking for, or at, in the paint chips and samples thus far. That notion takes this conversation full circle back to your original inquiry which was about cutting formulas by percentages. Intuitively I think you knew that something needed to be done to the colors you have been considering -- they were close, but that balance, tick of nuance hasn't been there so far. If what I've said makes any sense to you so far, it's possible that you can now go see if you can just find the color you want as I'm hoping it's now a little easier to understand what it is you are looking for. Maybe I should say what I think you're looking for....See MoreTalk to Me About LED Light Bulbs Please
Comments (15)Bought the Philips 60w "Warm Glow" LEDs at HD yesterday (under $10/ea). On full power they aren't as bright as an incandescent 60w bulb. They DO have the softer, warmer glow that an incandescent bulb does and warms even more as it dims. Still doesn't dim as low as a "real" light bulb. I do like how LEDs don't produces as much heat. Looks like there is going to have to be some compromising. As "cave like" as DH's bathroom is (and he wanted it that way), 180 total watts probably isn't going to be enough light. The 300w (dimmable) was plenty light but it was so white and messed with his bathroom color palette...does he care? NO! But I do :) What to do. Call Philips and ask them to make a 100w "warm glow" LED that will dim lower. That's it! I'm sure they'll get right on that! <g> I considered buying a set of the Crees too but I'm really not liking the whiteness of the LEDs. I'm sure it's OK in some applications. Oh, the Philips don't visibly flicker or hum when turned down....See MoreLets Talk About Bleach Baby, Lets Talk About You And ...
Comments (64)Mich, I've seen that in the stores and wondered about it. Some detergents don't have enzymes, I stear clear most of the time, however not every load is tragic, so not every load needs enzymes. If there's not a bunch of stains and the clothes just have the normal dust and body oils, that bottle of All probably does a nice job on darks and colors. I'm a powder fan but lately I've been enjoying some liquids, lol. Actually I have found liquids without enzymes make my sheets feel very smooth, I've been using a new boutique one I've run across, I'm not sure yet though if its the lack of enzymes or because its a liquid, but they do feel better I'll send a pic of it in a sec....See MoreWould someone talk to me about toilets?
Comments (6)Going from standard height to comfort height or from round to elongated doesn't impact the flushing characteristics of the new toilets. Water volume used by the toilets is what has changed. Your old Kohlers probably used 3 to 5 gallons to flush. The new toilets used 1 1/4 gallons to flush now. You can check out Consumer Reports for their take on toilets. They usually do pretty well in their testing. From my own personal point of view, I have used everything from CostCo toilets (Which aren't bad) to American Stand Champion (not that good, doesn't clean the whole bowl). My current favorite is the American Standard Vortex line. It actually seems to get the whole bowl while flushing. And it does a pretty good at clearing up "cling-ons)...See More- 6 years ago
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