Can a pocket door go behind a shower tile wall?
R M
4 years ago
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WestCoast Hopeful
4 years agoRelated Discussions
DIY shower wall tile and shower door install
Comments (0)I've been reading last few weeks on proper shower wall install since mine leaked bad enough that I'm tearing it down to the studs. House is only about 15 years old but, IMO, improperly built like so many other tract homes. I'm discovering It's greenboard with no vapor barrier or waterproofing of any kind. At first I thought leak was from cracking grout, then running around the prefab shower pan and exiting the front where the shower door and curb are since there is no flange. I siliconed the wall-pan interface 3 years ago when I discovered a small leak, also tried to seal various shower door channels. Now, 3 years later and wiser, I think the combination of wall and all those channels/panels of the shower door was the bigger problem. Silicone on the wall bottom only helped trap some of the water running behind the wall from coming out while any water on the shower curb went straight out the side to the floor. So I'm pretty much set on cement board and few coats of paint on waterproofing, reusing the plastic pan, but one thing I haven't seen addressed much is the shower door. I believe that is a big problem because any water that gets on the "threshold" channel may run straight into the wall and out the front, no matter how much waterproofing I have on the walls. And the only line of defense is silicone at the time of installation. I'm the kind of person that likes a physical barrier or redirection, not rely on cualk to keep water out. I feel no matter how well caulked, it's only a matter of time when water works its way to open up a gap since daily use by 2-3 people is a lot of use. It's not like I can check daily if there's water outside the shower. Everything is nicely hidden so I don't know failure until it's bad enough and there's evidence of damage. I think with the cement back/waterproofing paint I'm comfortable with the wall install, but how is a guy supposed to properly install a shower door and never worry about it? Sorry for the long read, but I wanted to give some rationale on why I'm concerned about the shower door instead when there's so much discussion on the wall/tile itself....See MoreHanging a towel bar with a pocket door behind the drywall
Comments (12)alwayscold- Tell your husband to install molly bolts with the door in the closed position (meaning not in the pocket). Once the backsides of the molly bolts have been compressed, they will stay in position and will not be anywhere close to the surface of the sliding door. Then all he has to do is remove the bolts and take them to the hardware store so he can buy short ones -- probably 3/4" or so --with the same thread. The original longer bolts are only necessary for installation of the part that is inserted on the wall; the substitute shorter bolts will have exactly the same holding power. If he is still reluctant, I don't know what to say...I've done this a number of times with no damage to the pocket door. You can easily determine how much room you have to play with in picking a bolt length by figuring out the distance from the surface of the sheetrock to the distance of the installed door and using something that is 1/4" shorter as a margin of safety. Alternatively, I've installed 1/2"-3/4" thick wood blocking on the backside of the sheetrock in a remodel situation. You install the pocket door frame, you install the sheetrock on the side where you want to hang the towel rack, and, before you hang the sheetrock for the other side, you insert the wood blocking and have one person hold it in place and another who screws through the sheetrock and into the wood to bring it tight against the backside of the sheetrock. Once you've done that, you can attach the towel brackets with short screws into the concealed wood blocking. Then you close up the other side of the wall....See MorePocket door wall material options for tiling
Comments (2)We have installed three pocket doors. The metal-clad "studs" that come with some pocket door kits may be okay under plasterboard, but we decided the flex in them is not to our liking and is way too much for tile. On the door in the tiled bath, we purchased three floor-to-ceiling steel bars, about 1 1/2 inches wide by 5/8 inch thick, and set them against a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood with spacers (between and on both edges of the plywood wall) made of 3/4 inch plywood. The bars are held in place (in the channels between the spacers and edgers) by metal straps secured to the plywood (which is 3/4 x 2 = 1 1/2 inches thick). We raised the plywood-metal bar wall as a unit, securing it by screwing through the end tab of the plywood sheet into 2x4s at the top, bottom, and above the door track (the steel bars and plywood spacers sit on the edge of a 2x4 lying flat on the floor). We had to be careful not to screw where the metal bars were attached. This gave us the stiffness we wanted--the wall seems immovable and without vibration even when pounded with a fist. For the other two doors, we sacrificed a few inches of room space and just built a full stud wall on both sides of the door. These walls do not seem as stiff as the wall with the metal bars and tile, so we cannot say how tile would fare, but we are satisfied with the solidity of both. Because we wanted to keep the edge of the door visible when fully open (to leave the door pull visible and accessible without needing hardware at the edge of the door) the wall on one side is shorter than on the other, and the door protrudes beyond both inside and outside walls, so it does not look as massive as it might have. BTW, we paid extra for the commercial-grade I-beam pocket door tracks, which will carry a 300 pound door. Over time, the track on the base model seems to splay and cause the door rollers to bind (we have seen this even on the brand new houses of friends) but our I-beam pocket doors have been rolling smoothly for four years and counting. The cost difference is not insignificant, and we had to find the product ourselves and convince our builder to use it, but in the end, even he was impressed. All of this might have been overkill, but worrying about popped tiles, having seen many failed pocket doors, and not wanting to get into the walls again, we cried once and are very happy with the result. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: This is the I-beam track, which I think we bought cheaper elsewhere...See MoreGoing insane: Matching white floor and wall tile (shower)???
Comments (7)DalTile should have matching white glazes. check w/them and see their subways and hex tiles. Tilebar.com often has matching white subways w/smaller mosaic sheets. you could try their site. Call and speak to Brittany over there. she can tell you. the outside floor doesn't have to match the shower subway tile exactly. it's fine if they're a little off. It's like painting the walls one white, and doing the trim in another white. They still work. White subway tiles do come in all sorts of white colors. I would suggest you get your floor tile first. take that white hex tile to an actual tile store and hold it up next to there white subway tile samples. make sure the subways you buy have the matching bull nose tiles for the edges. So get the floor first. (or, get the wall tiles first) and take them w/you to a tile store to match w/the other. If they're not exact, not a big deal! make sure too, your light bulbs in the room aren't too warm. they will cast a yellowish hue on the white....See MoreR M
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