Hi, The white chairs are actually a cream or linen color, and a dirty one at that. The red is imitation velvet. Most of the spots can be wiped clean. The one finial is missing, and so are some of the cross bars on the legs. These chairs are imitations. The black ones are some sort of plastic. They kind of smack of one of those chinese restaurants with nice tablecloths. All of the chairs have been used a lot and may have been in restaurants. If they don't sell quickly, we'll make them into flower pot chairs and sell them that way, or put them back on the curb and make that HAHAHSnort noise that Pattico suggested, lol. We won't need binoculars, because most of the yards here aren't as big as most of yours. There is so much stuff around here. If this were an area where they're picky about what they'll take, I'd be searching for places that the stuff gets dumped, including the legal dump. If it can't be put on the curb, it has to show up somewhere, LOL Linda

I use the bucket of soapy water and it works -- on the ones I catch. Problem is, they fly from far away, so more are waiting. Furthermore, they also eat tree leaves (cherry, linden), so even those you plop into the water down low where you are, remain a small percent of the total population in the treetops. We just have to live with them like the people in the eastern half of the US. The swarm is slowly moving westward. Almost unknown just a few years ago, they are now an established pest here. The plague lasts a few weeks. Persevere and wait them out. Hopefully, you will find plants next year they do not eat.

I needed to replace just one, and finally took on the challenge to build it myself. No woodworking skills, and limited tools. Took forever, but was quite pleased with the result. Not a project I would care to do again, nor recommend the adventure. Measure yours (different sizes?) and carry that data with you, with a tape measure. You may find some in good shape at a yard sale. Easy to repaint. Accept slightly larger, which can be trimmed down to fit (not smaller). Junk shops have them. Habitat for Humanity resells them. Craig's List. FreeCycle offers. All should be in a price range of $2 - $10 ea. A little DIY work can save some bucks. Any local retirees with skills who would like to pick up a few bucks? Good luck. Here's my frame being painted, waiting for glass. Total materials was $40.

From the photo - That is not black trim. That is the storm window frame with a black accent paint around it. I can guarantee you that when you remove the storm window, the fin of the aluminum window beneath it will not be exposed. With vinyl siding, it is NEVER correct to install exterior trim on top of the siding. I don't know what your original siding was, underneath the vinyl. Do you? But with aluminum windows, I can almost guarantee you that the siding butts up against the window frame. IF there was a casing trim of some kind, it was most likely removed when the vinyl siding was installed. You remove the storm window. Then you remove the sashes/glass and mullions (if any) from the window, leaving just the frame. Then you pry the frame into the opening, pulling out the nails. You also hope at this point that the vinyl "J" channel was not nailed through the window fin. If so, the "J" will come off with it. When the frame is out, you then have the opening you will be dealing with. You can have the new window made to slip between the "J" and cutting back the sheetrock, or you can have the new window made to fit sheetrock to sheet rock, and trim the outside appropriately. You'll be able to see where the studs are, and the window cannot be bigger than the rough stud to stud opening. The problem is the vinyl siding. I hesitate to recommend cutting that back. Perhaps someone else here has a suggestion on how to do that without risking cracking/chipping and ruining the siding. The other problem with cutting it back to reveal the window fin is that you no longer have the right "J" channel - though maybe they can find some and slip it around the siding cut. But then you also cannot nail it properly after the fact. This is why I recommend leaving the "J" and siding alone. What abosolutely MUST be done in your situation is that the proper drip cap/flashing MUST be applied above the window. It must go up behind the sheathing, and turn out over the window, extending past the "J" channel, and then a downward bend of app 1/2". In your case, you have to have someone custom bend that on site. The addition of vinyl siding will make any pre-made drip cap unusable. It must start from up behind the sheathing or original siding, NOT the vinyl siding. Also make sure that the new windows are fully injected around the frame with low expanding insulating foam. This will be an absolute must for your application. That's probably clear as mud. But I did my best for you. Keep in mind, this is a standard every day job for any competent window company, and I did thousands of windows like this that never leaked. But if you get a crew in there that takes short cuts and depends on caulking for shedding water, you're going to be in big trouble down the road. Hope that answers your question. What the other guys here said is more true than you can know. "Contractor" guys are clueless about this kind of stuff, and it shows in the end results, and we've seen it a million times. I also want to tell you that if you chince on this, you will get a chince result and look. The money has to come out of somewhere. You don't want it to be the product or the workmanship. Pay for a good job done right, and you won't be doing it again in less than 10 years. Ignore this advice, and you will. It's not an insult to your intelligence, which I'm sure is adequate. It's just the fact of it. And unless you do this for a living for years, you cannot know, and I don't mean to offend, but that's the reality.