You’re going to have to bring it to current building codes to turn it into habitable space. That likely will mean tearing out the floor to insulate and vapor seal below it. But you’re also required to have permanent access to that crawl space area, so that’s going to have to get figured out, and that might not mean a full tear out. All the windows will need to be new to pass the inspection, as well as the new electrical and insulation. The only thing that may remain is the framing and the roof.

At that point, the ductwork can likely be extended very easily, if the central HVAC can handle the added cubic footage. Otherwise, a standalone mini split heat pump for heating and cooling is going to be the better option for such small square footage.

The house was built in the 1930's so I am afraid of what this little conversion of a very small back porch is going to cost and what issues I am going to run into. Thank you.

Photo of porch, sorry about the mess. It is such a small area.

If you have gas and can get a gas line run to it there are some great gas room heaters- we just installed a rinnai in our basement (we chose this brand as it has timer settings and a thermostat) - we also installed an electric heater in a basement bathroom by eheat that is nice, we did electric heated floors in a different bathroom when we re-did our tiles--- so many options depending on your power source and budget

Could do with a facelift, for sure, and a major decluttering. If you removed the chest of drawers and all the junk, you could turn it into a nice mud room. Leave the laundry where it is and avoid all the code issues.

Thanks deb s, unfortunately we do not have gas. I was thinking just a small electric baseboard heater with thermostat. I'm trying not to spend a small fortune. I just need something so that the water lines will not freeze in the winter. Not sure if there is a way that plumber can insulate pipes not not freeze. I need to research that issue too. Plumber is going to run new line from basement (which goes up through a very small space between foundation (cinder block walls) to the back porch. The back porch is an addition.

The back porch is right off of my kitchen and in the summer I keep the door open most times so I can watch my dog out in the yard, so I could also leave the door open in the winter while doing laundry, of course my oil bill will go up, no way around it. Just want to make sure I don't have any busted pipe issues. I guess I will need to talk to the plumber more about this. I am in the very early planning stages and trying to research every option.

Thank you.

@latifolia - Everything is getting removed from that room so that I can convert it to a laundry/mud room. I currently have a washer and dryer in the basement but I am planning for down the road. Trying to make everything on one level to make it easier as I age. The walls and flooring are being removed and new walls and insulation are going up. Plus new flooring. Having plumbing and drainage ran as well as dryer vent to outside.

On average 25% of interior heating goes out through the floor (30 walls, 25 roof and 10 windows and doors). It's a pain (I know, I've been there, full living room), but your pipes will be safer and it will be easier to keep the frost out.

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Do you know what type of foundation is used? Because if this was originally a porch, it isn’t really designed to take the weight and vibration of laundry machines. The foundation may need addressing, as well as the floor joists, and it will certainly need insulating when the vapor sealing is done. You can’t put water there without insulating the walls and attic either. There has to be enough room in the attic above for that insulation. If you’re planning to open this up to the house, rebuilding it might end up being easier if it’s not built robustly enough. If you can’t access the crawl space or attic to insulate, then that is a design it differently and rebuild it,

@User - I'm really not sure to tell you the truth re: foundation. It looks as though an addition was put on years ago (pantry & back porch separated by a wall). Definitely can't rebuild as it would mean taking siding off to expose asbestos shingles, no thank you LOL. Thanks.

The other posters have brought up some issues needing to be addressEd, but to answer your original question. Typical residential pipe insulation will not offer enough freeze protection. You can look at thicker, industrial insulation and heat trace/tape. That’s basucally an electric heating element with a thermostat that goes between the pipe and insulation.

Base board wall heater And caulk around dryer Vent

I'm worried about the water line going through the cinder block basement wall, being exposed to the exterior temperatures (ie. -20) and then running up into the porch through a hole in the floor (am I getting this right?).

I would not do it this way. I would spend the money to run the water line through the INTERIOR of the home. As FAR AWAY from exterior temperatures as you can.

You will need to GUT the inside of the porch down to the studs (even to the point where you see the dirt below your feet while balancing on the joists). You can then enclose the raised deck as much as possible and insulate it to R40 or more.

You vapour barrier this thing to within an inch of it's life. Stuff every crevice with expanding foam insulation caulking. You then insulate the FLOOR of the porch. Get as much insulation into those joists as possible (someone's getting dirty). Fix ANY weak joists or any water damaged materials as you go (add 30% cost over run just for this...if you don't need it then you don't spend it...but be prepared for the absolute worst case scenario possible = lose the entire porch).

Now you install backer board and heating mats on the floor (in-floor radiant heat mats) that are then covered in tile. You will also add a baseboard heater for the space. The two run on low will have no problem keeping the space above freezing...but don't expect a nice warm space to fold laundry.

You will also change out windows to the highest level you can afford. The same with the exterior door (go as high-end as you can with as much weather proofing as possible).

You will stuff the walls with as much insulation as you can get in there (or better yet you can use the spray on purple stuff used for moisture protection and insulation).

You will stuff the ceiling with as much insulation as you can get in there (remember I said down to the studs...no drywall or ceiling left in place). Resurface your space and keep going.

And all of this hangs on the one detail no one has asked: Is this porch allowed to be there in the first place? Did anyone (you or the previous owners) ever pull permits to allow this addition in the first place?

If not, your project is moot. Best start with the city and see if that porch is allowed to be there. And then check to see if it was ever allowed to be 'enclosed' and then check to see if it is allowed to become a heated indoor living space.