I would definitely consider the new ultra books in particular the Asus ultra book that is both a tablet and laptop in one it won't be cheap but for travel the size and weight will be important, I think you should go with 8,it will hard to find new with out it. I would definitely not get 17" for travel. I think anything in the newer released laptops will cover your needs. The ultra book convertible is the best of both worlds, I think being able to use it in tablet mode will come in very handy. I personally own the Asus tf300 transformer tablet which I love but you want something bigger it sound like and your gaming needs would probably dictate a laptop. I don't mind a refurbished as long as it is factory refurbished with some warranty.

It does not seem to be a network adapter issue either, as both wireless and direct connection are problematic. The next step to see if a program typically Anti Virus is causing issue. So lets boot the computer to safe mode with Networking and see if you can connect that way, lets just concentrate using a direct connection. Restart the computer, keep tapping the F8 Key, the computer will boot to the advanced boot options menu black screen with white letter. From the list presented to you, use the arrow key to select Safe Mode With Networking once selected hit enter on the keyboard. Now try to connect to only Google.com. Let us know if you can connect that way. Do not surf the internet in this mode. Please be sure to try another browser too maybe before doing all this above in case this is a silly internet explorer issue.. Joe

REplaced the hard drive - uh-oh. Your legally installed Windows system was on the old drive. When the replacment drive was installed, the existing system needed to be transferred to the new disk (if possible). This can not be done by a simple copy. An image of the old disk must be transferred to the new disk. Software such as "Copy Disk" is used to do this. If the old drive was failing and could not be effectively accessed, then the computer system has to be rebuilt by reinstalling the sysem from your original CD and it needs to be 'activated' from the MicroSoft site. Contact MicroSoft's web site for instructions. If you do not have the Windows original software disk, then the store from which you bought the computer may have a legal copy and should be able to reinstall for you. Look around in the material that came with your computer (when you bought it). If you do not have the Windows software, is there a "recovery disk"? Look for instructions about how to use the recovery disk. This may save you. If you can not find a way to resolve this issue, then you may be faced with buying a copy of Windows and starting over. This points out the need to make a recovery disk soon after you get a new computer.

Snidley gave good advice. I agree with just about all of it. You're not going to tax the performance of any modern machine you buy with the uses you specified. My one recommendation, and what I do every time I buy one or set one up for someone is to max out the RAM as much as possible. Fill open slots at least with highest possible. RAM will do you more good than CPU power in about 90% of all cases I've seen. If you buy from a computer shop they'll usually let you buy enough RAM to max it out and credit you for what's in it. Often there will be, for instance a 2gb when the slot will handle 4 so you have to remove it. Cheaper machines often only have 2 slots. For me, I quit using the tablet, partly because it died but partly because it's just not convenient. I bought a $20 smart phone to use as a mini tablet when I'm out and about. Works fine for me. I much prefer the keyboard and 17" monitor features on a notebook/laptop. It's my primary computer. I'm probably going to get another in the next month or two. I was looking at a refurb Toshiba for about $350. Everything I needed and more. Like I said I'd then add some RAM which I haven't priced but should be less than $100. Occasionally you'll see places that include office in their packages, however it's not "free". Technically, no extra charge, but they charge you a few hundred more for the package so, you still wind up paying for it. Most everything sold now should be compatible for Win10 unless you buy something old. Doubt you will. My needs aren't the same as yours although we do use them similarly! Brand, well other than HP/Compaq I wouldn't object to most any. Dell at the bottom of the barrel. Much depends on luck and how you treat them. Look for the features you want. Number of USB ports, etc. For me, a modem is required and few if any notebooks have them anymore so I have to dedicate a port to the modem. I always use a mouse so there goes a second one. I use an amplified speaker powered by USB so there goes another. Historically I too like Lenovo and I've had great luck with Toshiba but haven't dealt with them now for a long time, except my first one (13-14 y.o.) is still going strong. I had one that died. Still the overall quality of them were far above others. But YMWV. (Second to )Last comment: I do not hesitate to buy refurbs. They're often only slightly used if used and almost always a great value. OH, and DO NOT get misled by some of these places that include "$2000 worth of FREE software!!!" Most of it is available free anyway, such as firewall, anti-virus, anti-malware, etc. NOW, for last comment, check your software that you find absolutely essential and see if it's compatible with the OS you're getting. Probably should check to make sure it will work with Win10 since it will be force loaded on you unless you take action to stop it. I lost use of some essential programs going from Vista to 7 so I keep the XP unit around for when I do desktop publishing which isn't too often but still needed. Good luck in your search.