Gasteria growing well, but discovered its in highly acidic potting mix
4 years ago
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Potting Mix, pH test strips and N-P-K advice for container plants
Comments (6)1) Every ingredient that you listed for the Fox Farm soil is extremely fine. Since water retention is dependant primarily on particle size, you should expect a medium made of all fine particulates to be extremely water retentive, something I try very hard to avoid in containers. 2) You can read about soils and how durable soils that remain well-aerated long after peat/compost-based soils have collapsed can offer a greater margin for grower error and make things much simpler for the grower if you follow this link. 3) Not necessarily, but if you think about it, what will you do if your pH falls outside the favorable range? Start adding acids and bases to change it? In commercial situations, pH is usually tested frequently and adjusted by injecting a wide variety of chemicals that have elements plants need into the irrigation water. Since pH is affected by temperature, fertility, plant material, moisture level, even time of day (Plants help to control the pH in the rhizosphere to make it easier for them to uptake nutrients. This effect is reduced when plants are undergoing periods of reduced transpiration, which in turn has an effect on pH.) I'm not saying that because I ignore trying to control pH that you should, but I've never found it necessary to fret about it in any container planting. I might consider the plant prefers acidic conditions and forgo the use of lime and maybe use a urea-based fertilizer to take advantage of the acid reaction, but other than that, I don't worry. Remember that Media pH is far less important in container media than in mineral soils, and if you're supplying nutrients in soluble form, unless the pH is WAY outside favorable limits, your plant will be able to assimilate the nutrients. You can find considerable discussion about this in Dr C Whitcomb's work, "Plant Production in Containers II". 4) On average, plants use about 6-10x more N than P. Since the P in NPK is not a true measure of P supplied (P is reportted as the % of P2O5 [phosphorous pentaoxide]) you need to use a multiplier of .43 to tell the actual amount of P. In 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers, there is 7x as much N as P, so you actually have a considerable cush in 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers. Plants use roughly the same amount of nutrients throughout the growth cycle in relation to N, so I'm not sure where the idea they need larger doses of P during flowering/fruiting comes from. Tissue analysis of fruits and blooms show roughly the same levels of P as other plant organs, which meshes nicely with the idea that consistent P levels at approximately 1/6 that of N are entirely adequate throughout the growth cycle. I actually don't boost K by adding the ProTeKt, I reduce the amount of N, which also must reduce the levels of P and K. Since I can see by my plants that what I said above about P is true (also confirmed in the text cited above, which is essentially the Bible on container production) and P levels remain adequate at reduced application rates of 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers, I only need to be sure plants are getting adequate K. I can do this by incorporating some potash in the soil when I make it in anticipation of the reduced N applications for tomatoes, or simply forgo the increase in TDC by supplying it later as needed by using the ProTeKt. Al...See MoreHow much should I fuss over ph with peat-based potting mix?
Comments (8)Thanks, Al. I just may experiment with this method with a couple of my containers and see what happens. Interestingly, the EarthBox people sanction the one-time addition of a small amount of hydrated lime added directly to the water reservoir as an emergency correction for tomato BER (I forgot the actual amount, it's in the EarthBox forums). They note that this is not an immediate fix but should help within a week or two. I tried it last year with some tomatoes in real EBs that had terrible midseason BER with the first fruits set (I did add the suggested amount of dolomite lime at planting, but it's common to get BER in my EBs, especially early on). The problem did go away within a couple of weeks of adding the lime to water, and the plants did just fine. It is impossible to know whether the lime treatment fixed the BER or whether it went away on its own, as it often does. But it didn't seem to hurt, anyway. Eric...See MoreBest Potting Media/Planting Mix for Large Containers
Comments (16)Hi Laura: As Jacqueline, Tessie, and JeriJen often said: "location, location ...." Tapla's recipe of 5 parts fine mulch, 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite is best for climate like mine: low-sun, flash flood warning and fast drainage is a must. It is recommended by Douglas Green, an owner of a large Ontario nursery of many plants in pots, including roses. If I use Al's 5-1-1, there is no need to put loose gravels or bark nuggets at the bottom for fast drainage. However, I use super-slow draining MiracleGro in green bag, and medium-slow draining Organic MiracleGro. I skipped this important process of putting loose stuff at the bottom, and regret it terribly. Now I have to dump the soil out of each pot, and start all over. I realize this after a heavy-rain simulation with a hose, with the pot flooding over and loses 1" of soil - which happens every time it rains here! Sure, Field Roebuck said it's not important, just put a paper towel at the bottom of the pot, and fill up with soil. His Texas climate doesn't have the low-sun, and 6" of rain flash flood. Each region should have its own recipe of best potting soil. Now I realize that the regular MiracleGro potting soil (green bag) might have been made for indoor pots, where one puts 1 measly cup of water per week. It's not meant for several outdoor heavy thunderstorms with 4 to 6" of rain per bout like my climate....See MoreAttempting my no-peat potting mix...
Comments (22)For any sifting, highly recommended doing it outside and wearing a respirator. I'm using this one because it is identical to what I am using in nuclear facilities at work (fit tested on my face): https://www.honeywellsafety.com/Products/Respiratory_Protection/2000_Series_(NIOSH).aspx?site=/usa They are more expensive than the bargain basement respirators at hardware stores, but you can use the cartridges for a very long time (breathing will get a little harder but that's it). Very comfortable, durable, and high performing. No matter which type of respirator you get, knowing how to fit it to your face properly and ensuring a good seal is most important! For guys, clean shaven along the sides of the face is key....See More- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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