Help! Marble countertop installation on Subtop only -no steel supports
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Joseph Corlett, LLC
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Help w countertop overhang support options
Comments (10)YOu have several options. Not to have any support is not one of the options. The pic of the embedded steel is one option. However, if the steel is not anchored to the cabinet it's little more than an expensive way to rod the stone (which is usually done with small diameter steel rod.) For actual structural support you need corbels or steel that is securely anchored to the cabinetry. This is quite possible and the underside of the stone can be relieved (hollowed out) if you choose although the steel supports need only be 1/2 0r 3/8" thick so burying them in the stone actually makes for a weaker assembly. the trick to low profile supports is getting a cabinet structure which will provide an adequate anchor points for the bolts holding the steel bars. This is usually not available without some additional structure built into the cabinets. While it doesn't sound like a concern for your project it can also be important to have the cabinetry securely anchored. It's not uncommon for a raised bar to have only a half wall as the primary support structure and if you want to hang off a large overhang you need to make sure the stone doesn't want to tip the whole structure (cabinet plus stone) over. Seems like an obvious consideration to me but it's not for a lot of people....See MoreHow to: substrate / subtop for stainless steel countertop?
Comments (2)We did layers of MDF, but plywood would've worked. We did 3, because our counters are 2 1/4". They are screwed together. I'd think if you did furring on the top, you'd lack support for the surface and allow denting/bending? Maybe I'm misunderstanding you. We didn't leave any allowance for expansion,and the stainless is just wrapped over the substrate, then the counter pieces (2 straight sections that span over cabs between rangetop and sections of wall) were just dropped (snugly) into place. They're not attached in any other way. They're not going any where. ;-) I would stagger the joints if you want to move the piece without bending. That's what we did with the 2 layers of plywood we used for our 10 ft table top, which has a laminate surface. The previous advice is right, though... The best person to ask is the fabricator/sheet metal guy....See Morecounter support for island - pics before counter installed?
Comments (24)I would strongly recommend AGAINST buying ANY CounterBalance product... they will completely hose the homeowner / DYI consumer. Just compare the price for the brackets between http://counterbalanceshop.com and http://www.chemical-concepts.com/counterbalance.php The same product will cost you $114 at the first site and $81 at the second. Really??? THEY ARE BOTH THE SAME VENDOR. I tried to place an order based upon the info on the Chemical site (didn't even know about the counterbalance site) and they wouldn't honor the price posted. Don't do business with this vendor who isn't interested in doing business with you. Vendor's words: "I could care less about" selling to consumers. STAY AWAY !!! Find a local machine shop who is interested in doing business at a fair price/profit. The product is a VERY simple job for any machine shop to produce. Chemical concepts doesn't even make the product -- they sell glue. For the person who wanted to know where they could get metal support bars, here is an option: http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/MWSRCH?N=32003649 I don't have any experience with them, so I don't know if their prices/policies are good or bad. I just found them from doing a bit of searching....See Morehelp with ordering countertop supports
Comments (5)Don't forget that those brackets will need a substantial backing to be able to be installed. Most cabinet backs aren't thick enough to provide the support necessary. If your line doesn't have a 3/4" panel, use a 3/4" piece of plywood cut to size and covered with a veneer panel plus outside corner molding. Make sure that 3/4" goes all the way down to the floor to transfer the weight properly. It's also only as sturdy as it's fastening to any of the other cabinet elements, so you may want to add internal blocking at the cabinet corners (tieing into the thicker sides) to help keep it vertical and to give it something substantial to attach to. The middle bracket sounds OK, but 12" from the sides is not close enough to the edge. I'd do the 10" or 12" ones (depends on your radius) no more than 6" from the edge of the top. That gives you right around 20" between the side and middle brackets, which should be an OK span since you are going to close to the counter edge....See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
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