John, my fabricator was assuming he'd be using 18 until I mentioned cast iron and then suggested 16 gauge. I'm sure it's overkill since you rarely see a dented SS sink and most are 18 or thinner and I don't throw around my cast iron--it's fragile! I don't remember what gauge we had in our previous kitchen--probably thinner. Anyway it's patinaing? patinating? developing a patina. We started with a brushed surface and fully intended to scratch it up. So it is sort of dulled, but not in a bad way (to us). If we wanted, we could scrub it all into a brushed finish again, but who'd want that? The sink is pretty scratched because it's a sink but again I could polish it back to a satin if I wanted. I could probably jump in the sink and dent it but it would probably pop back. (It sometimes flexes when I pour a big pot of boiling water in it with a nice bang. I don't know why I enjoy that.) I thought I got a gouge when my electric stable gun was jammed and I was hammering it on the counter. But I guess it was just a scratch. Can't find it now. Probably shouldn't do that, though.

Our substrait is plywood as well. We wanted it to approximate the 3cm granite on the other counters so we used two layers of marine grade plywood. Marine grade isn't necessary, but we had it on site from our shower construction and didn't mind the extra protection it gives in a water area. Our fabricators came out three times with the counters to do a dry run on the fit, then went back, cut, banged, etc and finally arrived at the finished product. Between the raised counter, the corner sink, the runnels going into a sink, integrating the sink, integrating the backsplash and wrapping the front around the bends in and out, they said it was the most complicated countertop they have ever done. I thought it was pretty simple actually heh heh (it's so much easier to be the designer LOL) Our sink is actually not an exact matched finish to the counters. It went in shiny like any new sink, but after a few months of use it's patina is pretty much the same as the counter. So I think with yours the finishes will blend quickly. My sink had a rim on it (it was able to be installed either as an undermount or overmount because it was a commercial sink). To put the runnels in on the corner they had to chop a bit off of one corner. I was worried how it would look, but really, it's totally seamless. That's what you'll get with a good fabricator. They really do wonderful work, just be sure to ask to see some of their work before you go with whoever you pick. Sometimes cheap means weld marks, dings, etc. You don't want that :) "igloochic-love the faucet! Did you replace it or modify it? Faucet shopping is on my list of things to do...It looks easier to clean without the coils. How on earth did they integrate your sink so well/seamlessly? That looks great!" Those are both KWC Systema faucets. The tall one was actually our first choice. We wanted the reach, and that professional look, but once it was installed, it didn't really work in the windows. We have two friends who have that same faucet and they love it. Cleaning the springs is not an issue at all (they really don't get dirty, even here in dusty alaska). It's a gorgeous and heavy faucet, which was also part of the problem. That swing arm weighed a ton, which was GREAT for use! It functions so easily, smooth movements, etc., but the head is heavy, and given the proximity of the windows, we had grave concerns about it hitting a window and breaking it. We have a 3 year old who loves to play in water and I could just see that thing getting a little shove...it takes a crane to bring in windows to the location, so we figured it was cheaper to buy another expensive faucet than to replace the windows at some point heh heh So that tall one is sitting in a box in the garage waiting for me to decide what to do with it. Poor darling...it's lonely for a nice kitchen heh heh (it's next to a plastic shop sink now...I think it needs to be humbled a bit) :oP So we went for the shorter Systema, but it's still nice and heavy. The visual is better for the location than the taller one, and it does not have the open swing the spring one had (I prefer the open swing frankly, but not with a 3 year old and windows). I'll probably use the tall one in the victorian house...or sell it...gad I don't know LOL (Our remodel is like a shop project from little boy hell...it seems to be together but we have LOTS of extra parts).

Please post more pics when you do more to the kitchen! Can't wait to see what tile you choose! What style/colors are you thinking? Wish I could see your floor too - or just wider angle of kitchen. Am I being too demanding?! p.s. if you're comfortable saying, what part of Portlandia? ;) We're in the Lloyd Center area (Irvington). Here's our stainless after 2 years of being beaten up (14 gauge). Could be worse as it's taken a REAL beating (having 3 boys and stupid friends at parties)!: http://www.flickr.com/photos/49559819@N00/6788566393/in/photostream Actually here's a less flattering one that shows more of the scratches although I'm not sure the countertop's actually clean here (buffed dry w/ towel to reduce appearance of marks): http://www.flickr.com/photos/49559819@N00/7049901467/in/photostream/lightbox/

Since you're retrofitting, I'm not sure but if your fabricator has any experience with counters, she can probably weld in a sink you purchase that fits the hole (once you pull out the old one) or even fabricate you one from scratch. The last stainless counter I had installed wasn't really very different from what you're doing. My GC put down the substrate and the stainless guy came in and templated. It might have well have been an old laminate counter! Pin down the fabricator and ask if they can weld in a sink or custom fabricate one. It should be not much different from doing a job from scratch.