Plants You have a lot. I'm not on site so hard to tell, but from the pics I'd probably remove all the plants from the pond and vacuum or scoop the bottom with a swimming pool leaf rake. When removing the plants note how deep they are. Moving them to deeper water might be an issue. For everything other than lilies moving plants to more shallow water, or even above the water is almost always better for the plants, so that would be OK if you like. Then I could assess the plants and pond better. Pots, baskets, directly plants? Can pots be reused? I can now see the pond without plants. How's it look to me? Were some plants hiding something that I want to continue to hide? I come up with a plan. Buy replacement pots? Maybe reduce the number of species returned to the pond. If the plants are planted directly in soil, not pots, you really have to empty the pond and deal with the plants. Fish have to be moved. That's a whole deal I won't get into now. Most (all) the plants will have to be divided. Depends on when last done. I just made a post on this. Most of dealing with plants just has to be learned with experience. But here's some things you may not know... When removed from the pond the plants can stay out of water for a really long time. Weeks, even months. The leaves may die back but the roots (rhizomes) last a long time out of water. Keeping them in water can actually cause rot. You can also plant them in regular garden pots with dirt, same as a regular garden plant, and just keep them well watered and they grow great. This is true for every plant except lilies, floaters and plants that grow completely underwater. Some times if you look up a plant on the web or printed on the label when buying a plant it will say 6" of water, or 12" of water, or whatever. Many people think that means the plant must be in that much water. This is actually the maximum depth the plant can take. Most of these do better the less water. Even planted in the yard many of these plants will do well. Here in Phoenix many kinds of "pond plants" are used in yards. This is because "pond plant" isn't really a very good term... "vernal pool plant" would be better. They've adapted to living in standing water and also dry periods when there's no water which is what a vernal pool is. So knowing this can make your life easier, more options. Plants inside the pond = more work. So reducing them will be less work in the future. You can put some of these into pots around the edge of the pond, or in the ground, or switch to other kinds of plants around the edge. Gives you the same lush look with way less work and the pond appears much larger. Here are some pics of a pond I built in San Jose CA to demonstrate. No plant is inside the pond. And here the pot on the left is a "pond plant" called Horsetail Rush. It's a foam pot with no drainage hole, soil from the yard. This plant, like most "pond plants" can be very invasive, but no problem in a pot. And no drainage holes means no straining from leaking water (the pot on the right need drainage and therefore a catch pan under it). Go on vacation for a week or two the pot is fine with no watering. When it's time to divide it's no big deal.

(that first post was from my dad Larry) Don't wait to add the mycorrhizae, it takes a long time for it to become established in non-oxygen-infused grows. Add it in when you first mix up your grow medium so that its well entrenched before you get it outside. If you wait to add it until the transplant its benefits will not come into effect until 4-6 weeks later. It will protect your plant from in-ground pests and pathogens as well as ease the transplant process by advancing into the new soil along with the roots. I would encourage aggressive supercropping to keep the plant at a manageable size and to get it as stout as possible. If you do this the fan won't help much and would also prematurely pollinate any flowers that slip by you. I'm not sure potting up would help much since a good mycorrhizae colony will rapidly take over the surrounding soil once you get it outside, but I can't see it hurting anything either. You are correct about heavy nitrogen to delay fruiting and to encourage heavy vine growth. Its tricky to get this kind of fert without using a nitrogen-only fertilizer, which you DON'T want to do. The plant needs some, albeit relatively small amounts, phosphorus potassium sulfur magnesium and so fourth which you usually only get from a general purpose fertilizer which contains more potassium and phosphates than you would like. The solution is to use an organic fertilizer that I swear by called Fish Emulsion. It is a 5-1-1, the perfect ratio for vegging out a tomato plant. It also contains just about every trace mineral under the sun and then some. I would recommend fertilizing with it and fast-acting lime for a calcium boost so that your plants can load up on it preemptively. Fast-acting lime does raise the PH of your soil so you may want to counter-act it with some garden sulfur as well. Calcium is very important for forming the cell walls of the tomato fruit and a deficiency in it is the cause of blossom end rot. Better to prevent this than have to treat it down the road and if you succeed in getting a massive flush of fruit from an over-sized transplant then you will have abnormally high calcium and potassium uptakes. I'm going back and fourth on what I think of your flower-pinching idea. On one hand it will indeed prevent the plant from producing fruit which it won't be prepared to do with its low potassium and phosphate levels. On the other I see having flowers on the plant on the day of the transplant as a way of getting a head-start on your yields. Personally, I think since you are in an indoor setting lacking the insects and steady breeze (if you ditch your fan) that normally pollinate the flowers you should leave as many of them on as possible. I would only pinch off flowering locations that inadvertently became pollinated and started to swell at the base indicating the early formation of a tomato. Leave the rest. When you take the plant outside the flowers should rapidly pollinate from wind, insects and all of the jostling about that will surely occur when you transplant. Other than that I think your theory is very solid and should get you sun-belt yields in a short-summer climate. Good luck and happy gardening! -Zach

>>>I'm thinking I can add an additional switch next to an existing light switch and use that to feed an outlet above a cabinet. Sit the transformer on top of a cabinet and plug into the outlet and run the low-voltage line behind or between cabinets. That's exactly what I did - except I hid my transformer in a valance, and hard-wired it to house voltage - worked great. >>>How far apart do you typically space the puck lights?I've got one for each foot of cabinet length - works great, and no noticeable "scalloping". >>>If so, puck lights are your best bet, but remember most of them are almost impossible to change bulbs inMine are halogen, and changing the lights takes about 30 seconds. Yes, the bulb is basically the size of a dime with two wire leads, but you just pull the old light out, then slide the new one in, pop the cover back on, and slide it back into the housing.

With switches like the Lutron Caseta, RadioRA2, Leviton LevNet you can have all the main controls in a central cluster and a wireless remote switch or switches. As for the light being too short, you could use different lengths of the same bar joined together. An example would be the Philips eW profile eW Profile product description