Acidifying soil in existing bed - two options
kali_deere
4 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agokali_deere
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Acidifying soil for Blueberries.
Comments (26)Eric: Yes, I do know, but it is a good reminder for anyone reading this thread that it is not a good idea to play with acid without proper precautions and understanding. It would be all too easy to become blind making a thoughtless error like wrong mixing order. HM: I've read many of the threads on here re blueberries, and your comments re neutral or near-neutral soils with high OM have been noted (at least by me). Your theory of zonal variation seems to have merit. Makes me want to plant a few plants in a hole with one side native soil, and just off to the side in the opposite direction some peat/acid amended soil. See if even with majority of roots in 7.5 ph soil they can thrive. Eh, I'll save that for some later year of investigation. While you are in Z6, by chance are the bushes you observe largely Southern? Conventional wisdom indicates they are more tolerant of higher ph. Of course, the plants don't read the books, or the forums, so whatever works despite what is written is what's best. I recall the thread, and the discussion with the 1,000 or so plants you are referring to. Part of my plan, starting with pots this summer is influenced by that thread and your comments about it in a later thread. And hence my decision to modify my irrigation to go with drip rather than try keeping on top of it by hand. Re neutral or near-neutral ph soils with lots of OM, it could be that in your area the soil is more consistent, and the OM is just enough to modify. I know that in some areas of the country, while the surface soil may be neutral, sublayers are highly alkali. Makes me curious about Drew's experience if there is soil nearby that was strongly influencing ph even though tested areas were reasonable ph....See MoreEspoma Potash and soil acidifier Fast or slow?
Comments (14)I agree jaxondel. I'm going to withold any more fertilizers for the season. I think what I put on is probably an overload! We are supposed to get some rain the next couple days and I'm hoping that it'll help dilute the stuff even more. Good news, (I think so) that my William Baffin is starting up again (a couple more stems growing now). I have to remember that they were just planted last season and are babies! I tend to over love my plants and kill them that way. lol I do like greensand myself! When I first prepared the rose bed I amended with greensand. So what if it takes a while to work right! It's good stuff. I wish I could have used it now, but the bed is in full swing and I can't work it into the soil now. I will keep everything well hydrated. Plants don't WANT to die! They want to live. One lesson I learned too is that after officially and finally getting the soil test, I realize now that my do-it-yourself soil pH tests were wrong! And that I have a slightly alkaline soil. And, like a dummy, I was top dressing with mushroom compost in fall the last couple years, and making the problem worse! Never again will I use that mushroom compost! Now, I am waiting on my compost pile, but in the meantime I will just top dress in fall with maybe cow manure. That should be ok right? It'll sit all winter and be good for them in spring....See MoreAdding soil/compost to existing bed - Ideas please
Comments (10)I can't believe no one has mentioned two things... the fact that hostas will grow in clay soil and that its probably the trees starving the ground of water/nutrients... I deal with an acre yard shaded mostly with mature silver/water maples... I think I only have two other varieties of trees and ones a cherry I planted this year when my son was born.. I live in southern kentucky and my soil is also primarily red clay... Two things hurt clay soil... the fact that it holds too much moisture and that it compacts and hampers root growth... I have compensated for this by amending with our "cattle- hay feeding- manure compost" that makes itself in the field where we feed the cattle...go to an old feeding spot about three years old and dig... it will be black loamy soil...then just apply a thin layer to the top of your beds... you may have to raise your plants....ride out in the countryside and stop by a farmers house... they're friendly people... and see if you can get permission to dig you up a few boxes of soil... I also do not use any in ground fertilize close to the trees... If I have plantings close to the trees... I use something that can be applied foliar and high in phosphorus to help the plants roots compete better with the tree roots...We've just moved to our new home two years ago this november..so I've only had two gardening seasons... granted I moved a lot of mature plants into the garden... I really have impressed myself with what I've done in two years... Basically what I'm getting at... is just alter your approach.. and lift your chin up a bit... I would say quit mulching or amending with anything thats not broken down yet... the breaking down process will cause you more fungus and rot than you are happy with....removing all leaf litter in the fall and mulching with a good mulch in the fall is a great gardening practice...definitely remove all old hosta leaf litter... water more often around your trees...check out www.pinestraw.com... you can order pinestraw in bulk shipped to your door... nothing else better to mulch with...slugs hate it....Good Luck... gardeing and nature is a challenge... especially here in Kentucky where the weather and seasons change daily... but the rewards are wonderful... John...See MoreAcidifying Soil Amendments
Comments (18)No worries, I understand where you were likely coming from, there's a lot of people who don't know much about plants and make wild assumptions, thereby giving themselves a lot more work than they need to. I am not one, and I could have been clearer on that point. Just trying to join the community and ask questions when I'm considering something new. I've learned a lot from many of the posts on here over the years, (only recently started posting), and see it as a knowledgeable community with brains to pick before I waste time on something that may not be helpful. Most of my plants are rescues that have taken years and a lot of hard work/research to cultivate and return to a state of health, and that includes my "problem" tree who needs the vinegar. Of my epiphyte collection I have two massive orchids that are something of a prized posession seeing as one of them is highly fragrant and blooms yearly, and the other keeps its massive blooms for a year at a time. I accidentally burned one of them when using vinegar to try to get some of its sap off of my kitchen table, and have been careful ever since. I do occasionally have to leave my plants in the care of others (not this year, for obvious reasons), so I try to keep their watering instructions to "give water until some is in the drip tray" and that's all. Purpose of the thread was to see if anyone had any success adding soil amendments that might overcome alkaline water and eliminate the need for correcting water PH for those plants that are sensitive, thereby simplifying regular watering requirements. So far I've found very little in my research that would be helpful, though I continue to search....See Moremad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agoUser
4 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
4 years agoNevermore44 - 6a
4 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)