There is no transition. The carpet is loosened at the bottom of the step until the wood is in...then reattach the carpet and trim the carpet so that it just touches the wood. It will hide the expansion gap also. Very simple and as common as anything ever gets.

I'm the OP. Those marble strips are nice but they only come in white. Since our floor is dark they wouldn't work for us. We ended up going with wood. There was no molding of the right shape or height, especially since we were trying to bridge a height transition: the tile being higher. We bought ranch molding that was designed for window and door frames. If you are not familiar with ranch molding, in profile it has a slope: one side is high and the other side is lower. The installers has to shave some wood off the back to make it fit (to reduce the height), but that was their problem since they had promised they would come up with something nice for us and had not. We had them bring the wood right before the weekend and then we stained and varnished it to match our other moldings. On Monday they came back and installed it. The carpeting is a berber, and the edge is tucked lightly under the lowest edge. The high side butts against the tile/durock and a small caulk line is in between.

I still cannot locate a source where I can order a reducer or transition for the doorway where the vinyl tile meets the carpet. There are none I can find to match the Shaw Array Resort Tile Sunlit Sand I have. Mrobvious, who makes the Burmese Slate #23 please, The floor has already been installed and flooring store will come back and replace the cheap metal strip when I find the right piece as they don't carry anything for LVT. This is a picture of the doorway, cabinet color and LVT before it was grouted. Thanks! Can I use a wooden one or wood tone that matches the color of the oak cabinets there or would that not look right? This post was edited by tinker1121 on Thu, Oct 16, 14 at 5:56

Here is a picture from the correct side. As you can see, the oak rail (will be stained) along the bottom of the oak stairs meets the pine (will be painted) casing that runs vertically. Once we figure out what we will do, DH will replace the incomplete piece of casing. Thanks for any suggestions!! Here are the (not so great) options we have come up with: Run the painted casing down to the bottom of the oak, matching its angle, and just sand the bottom cut edge so its a little rounded off. 2. Put a block where the two meet (but we tried this and it looked stupid) 3. Instead of stained oak along the angled stair portion, continue painted casing on angled part (I didn't like to idea of this because then it would be white casing on a stained stair jamb (or whatever its called :) Maybe there is "rule" for this sort of thing that we novices don't know about!