Dirt and fine saw dust mixed with oil will eventually plug up the bar and oil feeder holes. Even if you don't hit dirt, dirt still inbedded in the bark. Caked up debri will also lodge in and around the clutch area and cover. The other BIG mistake is not keeping the slack adjusted out of the chain. Which usually has to be done about every tank full of gas. You must clean you chain and bar regularly, Now for me thats at least every other use. I can't stand a dirty saw. You can look at the chain and if the wood is burnt on to the teeth and you have to take a pocket knife and scrape it off you chain getting little oil. even if I am very careful not letting my chain hit dirt it still needs to be cleaned after a days use. this included removing the bar running a wire or small screwdriver down the bar groove knocking all the stuck junk out. I use carb. cleaner it works great for me. I also hang my chain up and spray it down then scrub it with a nylon or brass brush, now that I got the bar and chain pristine clean, I crank up the air compressor and blow out the clutch, clutch cover, around the cooling fins, and exit slot on the pull rope side. Now I reassemble, adjust the chain tension, and hit the chain teeth about 3 or 4 strokes with a file. Now the saw is clean, sharp, and ready for storage till my next cutting job. IMO the worse thing you can do is put your equipment up dirty, especially if it's not used often. We've all seen them the mower decks with the big grass lumps on top of them, chain saws with the big burnt spots on the bar ect.... Now to answer the question how long the chain will last????? Till you sharpen the teeth off of them or they get sharpen down to a nub and break off. that's how long the will last. some will say this is overkill, but for me I like a well preforming piece of equipment, just makes the job easier IMO.

makes me laugh since you point out how the thinking behind the question may be flawed. Allow me to broaden the question. I have seen web sites say that 7 or 8 cubic feet of fridge volume are plenty for a couple. This is the volume in a 24" fridge-freezer. Predicting life expectancy works best when you have a large fleet of the same things. Pooled results corresponds somewhat to the predicted results. Single devices vary a lot; there is much less correlation. So yes I agree there is something inane about thinking of a single device's future life span. Any fully integrated fridge has to get rid of condensation water by evaporating it and blowing it back into the room. (H20 condenses out of the fridge air after you let room air into it. An eternal cycle.) Is your house air dry? If so, your fridge is under less stress, permanently. This one little factor determines the mileage because X thousand days of working ten times as hard as another fridge will shorten its life expectancy. So putting a dehumidifier behind the fridge will be good for it and also good for your kitchen micro-climate if you like drier air. Fridges fight against humidity after they do the easier work of creating cold by moving heat across a few inches of space. Just for the intellectual exercise of comparing oranges to oranges, the Danish Vestfrost and the Turkish Blomberg / Arçelik are I believe the closest comparisons, and these two firms named are real factory owner-operators. In Europe just as here you will find appliances made by a factory for another company that puts its name on it. So tongue in cheek, Liebherrs will last as long as any other Danish or Turkish fridge built with the same components. HTH -david

OK, 1st of all let’s not assume either of us live in the same country or share the same currency here. My data is accurate. Here’s what I am seeing when I go to homedepot.ca (CDN Currency). Cheapest model is a Ryobi 18V 13” mower ($238 CDN), most expensive mower is a Toro 60V 22” mower ($1,148 CDN). I could not find a single replacement battery for the Ryobi but a 2-pack is $148 CDN, so let’s put the value at $386 CDN which converts to $290 USD. The Toro battery is $581 CDN so that puts us at $1,729 CDN or $1308 USD. Again, in both situations I would want to buy a replacement battery in case I can’t finish mowing my lawn before the battery dies and to get 4 years out of the mower, or more ideally. If I go to homedepot.com the cheapest mower is a Sun Joe 28V 14” mower ($176) and the most expensive is a Makita 18V x2 21” mower ($849). If I add the replacement battery again it’s $149 (this was not available at Home Depot but I did find it on their website (40V not 28V). But again if you wanted to get 4-5 years out of it you are investing $325 for the Sun Joe 14”. The Makita batteries are $219 putting the price up to at least $1,068, but in this case you are just maxing out the 4-bay battery system, to have an equivalent backup you should actually buy 6 which would bring you up to $1,506. So in both cases the battery powered mowers really range from $290 and $1308 or $325 to $1506. So let’s round it off at $300 - $1,400 to get 4-5 years out of battery powered mowers. All I’ve invested in a gas mower is $453 USD for the mower $4.50 for oil and $7 for gas. 5 years from now I doubt my costs will be much more than about $550 USD but let’s say they are $650 USD, that’s still really cheap and I didn’t have all that stalling and bogging down. The cost of batteries are also going up as there is considerable costs to manufacture them, and 18V batteries just don’t give you enough power for most people.

Luxury is a marketing term. It’s still a plastic floor. Just like the black and white sheet vinyl available for under $1 a square foot. VCT has been around forever and is not luxury, and is under $1 as well. It just requires maintenance. Wear depends on your floor prep, and how flat you get it. All flooring materials require this. The next determinant to wear is quality of materials and traffic. Heavy wear with soiled gritty shoes will wear out quickly, unless you choose porcelain tile. Light wear in a shoes off family with frequent vacuuming and mopping could last 20 years before becoming brittle and getting hairline cracks. VCT has limestone in it, and there are installs of it still around from the 70’s. The old Kentile stuff, that had asbestos in it, also has viable installs from the 50’s still in service in some basements. Of course, there are tile installs around from Pompeii, so if you’re looking for maximum durability, something that lasts beyond your lifetime and into many generations past it is certainly possible. Focus on the best product for the purpose first. Then the best choice within that category.