Oops ya sorry the Centiva doesn't mention about temps or direct sunlight. I think I got mixed up reading about installation temps or something. Does the asphalt staining mean if I got some stuck under my show from the street and I rubbed it into the floor unknowingly I would stain it? The Centiva is partially made out of some kind of recycled product to be a "green" floor, but does it mean it performs worse? Our kitchen has three 3'X4' south facing windows but I'm replacing them with Milgard Low-E windows that's supposed to block out 95% of the UV and I'll be using roller shades so I think the direct sunlight won't be an issue as it voids the warranty on the Nafco tiles I read. It's just confusing with all the vinyl tile flooring types and reading complaints about them from flooring salespeople, contractors and the Internet that I don't know what's good or bad. Is there a vinyl floor brand that will last 20+ years or just give up on LVT and install porcelain tile and use rubber mats? Thanks for your suggestions.

We are having these installed soon. They have been ordered. We bought the classic oak. I think they will be very durable for our lifestyle, many pets, rural lifestyle. Our flooring stoor says they are the most popular lux vinyl they sell. I am really excited to have them. I work in a grocery store and we have these. Our floors take heavy, heavy abuse. 10 years later they still look great.

The quality of the product will depend on the price point you can afford. Nice quality starts around $4/sf (CoreTec comes in around $5/sf when on sale). You are looking get as close to these points as possible: 20mil wear layer (thickness of urethane coating over the vinyl itself) 5mm total thickness or better Rigid plank (8mm thick SPC core, etc) The one thing you need to know as a homeowner: 1. The labour to install ONLY covers installation - nothing else 2. Subfloor preparation is going to be more expensive than you imagined 3. The homeowner is responsible for the appropriateness of the material chosen What does this mean? You will need to pay for removal/disposal of carpet ($1/sf is common). You will pay for removal/disposal of tile ($2/sf is common). That's the demolition side of things. Now onto the PREPARATION side of things. You will need to pay for subfloor preparation. Vinyl needs FLAT and SMOOTH! Seriously...the thinner the vinyl plank the MORE work you need done. Be aware that carpet hides the WORST subfloors in the building industry. The subfloor under the tile will be in better shape than the carpeted area....no I'm not kidding. So preparation costs are often $2/sf (can be as high as $4/sf....but that is rare...but be prepared for it just in case). The time added to the job is another 1-3 days depending on square footage and size of the crew. Excellent. You have now paid (roughly) $4-$6/sf and you STILL need the floor installed. The cost of the product (we'll assume $5/sf) and the install ($2.50 - $3/sf is common for vinyl) adds another $7.50/sf. What is the SIZE of your project? How much carpet? How much tile? And what is your TOTAL budget once all the items are paid for and installed? Sometimes it is easier to start at the END and work backwards.

Nc, what style kitchen are you doing? if going w/a porcelain tile, and you have a large enough area, go w/the 24x24 or 30x30. 12x24 can look a little choppy, depending on the type of tile used. for instance, I love these (first 5 are all from Tilebar. you can get 5 samples for $5) oh, and this is a large porcelain tile that when laid looks like a wood inset design. it's porcelain and comes in many colors.