Does anyone have any experience with Congoleum Triversa Luxury Vinyl planks? We are remodeling to make our home more ADA accessible and I am trying to find a waterproof floor for our kitchen, family room and bath. I have a lot of brown, not orange, oak, kitchen cabs and oak flooring on family room wall. I am trying to find a floor without too much movement. Travertine, etc just doesn't fit in our colonial style home. Thanks for your help.

@ erett The travertine-look tile is too blue for your kitchen. Sorry but that's going to be one BIG clash. The more marble-y looking one is the best match to the counter tops AND the cabinets. Right now the cabinets are driving everything towards the creams (yellow based white). As for running right over top of the current tile, I am going to caution you to think about this one. Please take the time to purchase an 8ft long level (the metal things with the glass bubble in it) and stretch it across your current floor. See how FLAT and SMOOTH it is. Vinyl is highly flexible. It LOVES to dip down into hollows (grout lines and pits in the tile) and hump over edges (each edge of each tile). We call this telegraphing = horrible thing to have happen when you spend money on a 'perfect' floor. I can tell the tiles have some texture to them. That texture has to be 'knocked down'. That is to say you need to grind them (all that dust you were trying to avoid = still going to happen). And then they have to be filled (leveling cement = SLC). But before you do that you probably have to prime them. Each and every 'high point' of the tiles (normally seen at each and every grout line) has to lie flat against the next tile = filling all grout lines. Whew. The cost of doing that = $2-$3/sf (depends one where you live). The cost of removing the tile = $2-$3/sf. The benefit of removing the tile = you never have to deal with them ever again = very good thing.

The white marble looking one? I did not like the white marble one from Supercore at all. I looked at the charcoal one called either Steel or Carbon. It wasn't bad. I found a tile guy today who will come look and give me an estimate. Hopefully since he is from Tulsa, he knows what he is doing. Funny that he mentioned that there are no standards being followed in Oklahoma and no license needed. I already knew that! He said he was licensed, but if Oklahoma does not enforce licenses, how did he get one? Maybe he has a license from another state. Benefit of the doubt until I hear him say something I know is wrong.

Of the $700-$800K your house is worth, your floors are worth almost $100K. If it costs $30-$50K to REMOVE you can DOUBLE or TRIPPLE the price to install. Yes. In order of operation, I would: 1. Change ALL lighting to lighten and update the entire home 2. Paint the beige walls WHITE (or at least primer them white) 3. Leave EVERYTHING alone for 1-2 months (yes...MONTHS) 4. Leave the SIZE of the island in tact...just drop the raised bar (chop it off and put down a large slab) 5. Pick a colour of your counters for a BRIGHTER colour as in BRIGHT WHITE (your kitchen is brown on brown with brown and this is a perfect example of the Brown Blahs). You can leave the cabinets dark brown but you REALLY need to update/brighten the counters. White counters reflect light UPWARDS....cool. 6. If you want a different colour for the island do NOT go dark...do NOT. You are getting RID of dark...not adding more. 7. Reassess your decisions before purchasing new furniture. 8. Realize the floors are NOT dark. In fact, they are as light as any PALE HARDWOOD will ever get. Even the lime-washed European Oak floors will be ROUGHTLY this colour. There would be NO POINT in covering up pale blonde STONE with pale blonde wood-look fakery.