HELP! does this tile need to be ripped out and redone?
cantabrigienne
4 years ago
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cat_ky
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Ripping out old bath- sheetrock + tile = mold
Comments (11)Oh boy. I was you, about 8 years ago. We just needed new windows, they were moldy. So we saved up to replace them, casings and all. Turns out, our development was built right in the middle of a huge scandal in this area involving paying off building inspectors, etc, etc. Lucky us! So then the siding came off. No Tyvec wrap. No insulation. No flashing. Lots of mold. So now we add new plywood, wrapping, insulated siding on Day 1. THEN we get to the back of the house. Deck is built with boards parallel to the house instead of perpendicular. Rotted 3 boards deep where it was attached because...no flashing. So now we also need to dig out the rotted wood, displace all the carpenter ants, and repair. Oh! And as a bonus, the sliding door was not attached to the house frame except for one large wad of caulk in one corner. But did we learn? NOPE! We spent 6 years recovering from the unexpected expenses and also grading the lawn/replacing the deck. The lawn sloped -toward the house, so the sump pump ran all the time. I was concerned about damage to the foundation eventually, so we fixed it. What a difference! Then 2 years ago we started in again. The tub chipped, so I decided it had to go because I was afraid of what I'd find under it. Fortunately, the only surprise that project was the sink pipes not actually being fastened together in the wall. It was a miracle we didn't have a waterfall in our kitchen! Speaking of kitchen, we just finished a remodel. Among the choice building techniques we found were rows of test holes for almost every screw in the cabinets trying to find the studs. A spacer above the microwave/vent made of scrap 2x4 and masking tape. Then there was the live wire left dangling in the wall with just some tape on the end, that was special. The other wiring was so convoluted it took a whole morning to figure out what was attached to what and where things went. Luckily, that concludes the major kitchen problems. Let's move on to my current projects. We had to gut the basement and replace all the drywall due to mold. And they used the wrong type of insulation in the basement (the fluffy cotton candy stuff), so that all went and we now have the proper insulation. We had another live wire with tape hidden in the ceiling. None of the outlets or switches were attached to the wall, they were just in boxes dangling on the end of the wires held in place by the faceplates. We had one vent discovered that had been walled over. They also ran out of space in the panel box for power circuits. So what to do with all the electric in the basement? Why, just feed an outlet nearby, then run FOUR leads from there. Code here is 2 max. We at least had a GFI on that outlet, but not on the one used for the sump pump. Plus that GFI also controlled the second floor bath outlet and the box in the kitchen with the outdoor light and under cabinet lights on it. Trust me, that was not easy to figure out! Speaking of wiring, there was also a light box under the drop ceiling. No fixture, I had no idea it was there. But there were 3 wires that connected through there, and one coming out that went over the rim. So you couldn't even attach a fixture if you wanted to! Our GC has never seen anything like it. We had to upgrade the panel box before the kitchen project, so at least now everything we've touched is up to code and on appropriate circuits, GFI, etc. Oh! And the fireplace, which I've been working on while the GC does the basement. The mantel was wider than the hearth, so it had about an inch overhang on each side. Classy! So decided to replace them both. Turns out, the reason the tiles on the side of the hearth looked loose was because they were. They tiled right on the plywood, so most of those side tiles came of with my own hands, no tools. So what's my point? You have an important decision to make. If you think this is original builder incompetence, you need to either jump ship now before the rest of their stuff crumbles (or burns the house down), or decide it's worth staying and save like crazy to make the needed repairs on the way. It may even pay off to find a GC you trust and have him go over everything, and I mean -everything- in detail to see what you can catch early and what to prepare for. For your sake, I hope it was just the tile guy that was horrible. But if the builder didn't catch that, which would have been obvious for days (or lack thereof), I wouldn't hold high hopes. (BTW, all this was on top of normal stuff, like a roof at about 25 years, new furnace after about 27, etc...)....See MoreWould you rip out/ replace this glass tile backsplash? big pics
Comments (17)No, it's not acceptable, not by ANY standards. But I don't think it needs a complete rip out to fix it, unless there's more you're not showing us. At the phone jack, the pieces should be removed, and proper cuts installed. If he doesn't have a glass blade, that's not your problem Those cuts are not that tough. At that corner, that's pretty gross. that would have to be removed to about a foot back, so that the tiles can be adjusted upward to line up with the tile on the other side. They would also have to be spread some toward the top of the backsplash so that they account for the out of plumb corner. Also not a real big deal (woulda been alot easier if he'd done it to start with, though!). As for the grout holes, those can always be patched with a little more grout. The joints might have to be dug out slightly with a utility knife, but again, not a big deal-- more time consuming than anything else. One way or the other, this isn't a complete loss, but no way should it be allowed to pass as it stands....See MoreDoes this tile need to be redone?
Comments (37)"what’s happening with the edge detail on the tile where the adjacent wall isn’t dry walled? A roll of shower pan liner is a good sign (?) except it’s cut around a light switch? Is it me? PVC" PVC pan liners can be used as waterproofing behind CBU! yep even though your gonna put fasteners thru it.. Youll often find novice installers attempting to use it on benchs, niches and even walls. For many years in the 80's-90's using a pan liner on the pan floor, walls and ceiling was A standard steam shower detail. No point in even commenting on this install though....Oh my....See Moreflooring help! Need to rip out carpet-what to replace it with?
Comments (5)Since budget is a serious issue for you, you are back to carpet, inexpensive vinyl or inexpensive laminate. Don't worry about whether it is the perfect match. It's going to be temporary, and I know you don't like that either, but you have so many other expenses going on. If your subfloor is concrete, I suppose you could just throw down area rugs for a while. But that is not going to work if the pet problem is not resolved. Pet accident smell directly on the concrete would be a long-term problem....See Morecantabrigienne
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoFilipe Custom Woodwork
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agoKristin Petro Interiors, Inc.
4 years agocantabrigienne
4 years agocantabrigienne
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agocantabrigienne
4 years agomillworkman
4 years agocantabrigienne
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agocantabrigienne
4 years ago
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