Nursery/guestroom fail
Lindsay Kaplan
4 years ago
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J Williams
4 years agoJ Williams
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Landscape Architect-erosion plan failed
Comments (19)"The material order was by the LA. Money between us has not been disucussed." While, of course, laws vary from state to state, basic contract principles are fairly uniform across state lines and in Ohio, and LIKELY Missouri as well, this would indicate the LA/nursery relationship as one of general contractor/subcontractor. Though the nursery is still entitled to payment for the labor and materials it supplied thus far (usually, payment would come from the GC, but you have indicated that the contract provides for direct payment from you), the relationship between the LA and the nursery, in essence, makes the LA responsible for all aspects of the work. For instance, if the problem you are having arose out of faulty installation by the nursery (i.e., deviation from the LAÂs design), your recourse would still be against the LA and not the nursery (and the LA, but not you, in turn, would have recourse against the nursery). From your perspective, if the actual cause is undetermined (e.g., bad design vs. poor workmanship by the nursery), this makes it easier because it alleviates the need to specifically identify the cause of the problem. Either way, it is up to the LA to fix the problem and eat the additional costs associated with remedying the problem. By way of example, if the LA refused to fix it at no additional cost to you and you had to spend money to have another LA come in for a redo and you sued the original LA as a result, if you prevailed, you would be entitled to recover the additional sums that you expended (including money for additional materials and labor) to remedy the problem. Your rights are the same at this stage and you are justified in exercising them and asking the LA to cure the defect without you having to pay twice. If the LA agrees, hopefully, much of the materials can be re-used and the LAÂs only additional outlay would be the labor costs incurred to reinstall the materials. If the LA insists on some additional payment from you, consider it carefully. While your rights are what they are, legal disputes can be very costly (and mentally draining for the parties) and in most cases, it is beneficial for both sides to meet somewhere in the middle and reach an amicable resolution without resorting to litigation even if that means each side giving up some of their actual or perceived rights....See MoreOnion Set FAIL
Comments (1)You'd think a local nursery would know better but not the case. I've had better luck with onion transplants than sets and usually start seeds in Sept. for Jan. transplants. I'm late getting the seeds started but I'm going to start some anyway and hope they size up enough to get them into the ground by at least late Jan. I planted them into the garden on Feb.10 this year and still got some good sized onions by late May. I grow the Texas 1015y's a sweet one and Red Creole or Burgundy, the red ones are still keeping well 4 months later. Good luck with whatever you do grow....See MoreGrapes.... Reflections on failing. A solution?
Comments (3)I can't imagine what you're problem might be, Bob! I put in a Reliance about four years ago, not really expecting to ever get any fruit since it doesn't get "enough" sun, in my opinion, but last year I actually got a few very small bunches! This year there are lots of little bunches! I'm surprised, and delighted! And mine is planted in some pretty bad clay! One thing that pretty much freaks me out every year is that as near as I can tell the plant has died over winter! This year I started to get a little bit used to it, but it starts growing very late, and until I can see new growth it absolutely looks dead--the vines "snap" off as if they were dead and I can find absolutely no visible signs of life. So, you haven't been digging yours up and throwing them away "too early," have you? I can't imagine that if you have several of them, but just thought I'd mention it since I was about to do that with mine the very first year! I DID plant mine from a 2-gallon potted plant, so I think doing that would definitely give you an edge over bare root. And since you've been having such a (strange!) problem with them, I recommend trying just one or two at a time until you figure out what's going wrong. At least that way it won't be "quite so disappointing" as having a whole bunch of them dying. I can't imagine this is the problem either, but, just trying to think of anything that could help, I can't use vermiculite in any soil I use or I invariably wind up keeping stuff too wet and rotting them off! Doesn't seem to me that would be a real problem in the ground, but is there any chance they were staying too wet? On the other extreme, if you have "pure" sand just a couple feet down, is there any chance that "all" the water is running straight thru your planting layer, and that they're staying too dry? Like I said, just whatever possibilities I can think of! If you have two feet of "soil" on top of the sand, it's hard for me to imagine that's a real problem either! Maybe you just need to drive up here and take a load of my Colorado Clay home with you to plant them in! I think wind/desiccation could be a very real problem, but I don't have any recommendations to help with that! And I also find it hard to believe that ALL of them would die, every time, from just that. I do tend to "hose mine down" (the vines) anytime I'm out hand watering over winter. But I always kind of assumed that made ME feel better than the plants! Not sure about that! Well, you asked for Thoughts! There's a bunch of them! Not sure any of them will help tho! I very definitely agree with PopMama! Your tenacity is amazing! And since it's something you really want, I say keep trying! Sooner or later something has to work! Good luck! Let us know (next spring!) when you get one/some that make it! Skybird...See MoreGrafting Eureka lemon tree with Sorrento lemon?! Failing!
Comments (12)Yes, Adrian, bag or any other humidity increase method is essential for the graft to take. It should be over the scion and cut from the moment you do the the graft, up to 10-20 days. This is the reason parafilm is used to cover all the scion. Bag should be sealed with rubber band or anything else, but in your case I think now it is futile to cover. 3 days without protection is enough for the cuts to dry out and not heal. I would re-read one of the tree/graft by shorting both the rootstock and scion with about 1cm, and then covering them with proper parafilm/food foil/strip of plastic bag/teflon tape etc. Then I would put a plastic bag over the whole scion-graft area, selling-it with rubber band. Grafted tee should be kept in shadow for the next 2-3 weeks. Then we will talk again....See MoreJ Williams
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