I will reiterate Anglophilia wrote regarding inset cabinets. I have inset cabinets on my upper cabinets as that doesn't impact storage capability since I can stash items behind the "inset".

However my drawers and lower cabinet doors are full frame to maximize storage. They don't look odd at all. I actually followed Anglophilia's advice when I was planning my cabinet design :-).

Regarding pullouts versus drawers. I do have both in my lower cabinets because with my configuration they looked better. Rollouts with doors obviously provide the benefit of being able to reach stuff at the back of bottom cabinets. However, the movement of opening a drawer versus opening a door AND THEN pulling out a rollout makes a drawer much more convenient.

I don't mind the rollouts because I am not accessing the stuff as often as I access the stuff stored in my deep large drawers. I have those under my cooktop - under my wall oven as well as on a run of cabinets behind the table. I also put a rollout under my sink cabinet which means there is no black hole of Calcutta where cleaning supplies go to wither and die :-).

When you are designing kitchen, I would suggest that you don't sacrifice function or even aesthetics if you can afford not to. I realize it's a slippery slope as there are so many design choices that need to be made and one can go seriously over budget if one keeps rationalizing spending a little more. However, you will be using and looking at kitchen cabinets every day and so having them be the best they can be within reason makes (or made) sense to me since they are difficult or impossible to upgrade a few years from now. It's easy to swap out a kitchen faucet or even pulls and knobs - not so easy to change doors with stationary shelving in the lowers to drawers.

If you like glass cabinets, one way to minimize expense is to not have the glass done by the factory but installed by a local window/glass place. My cabinets were done by a local guy and the glass was installed by someone local as well. My bathroom cabinets mimic the style of my kitchen cabinets and have antique mirror inserts to lighten them bu that's a different story :-).

On the other hand, glass cabinets really are functional in my experience mainly for display purposes unless you are the kind of person who is willing to spend time arranging the items artistically every time you use them LOL. I have my old Fiesta and Russell Wright stuff displayed in my glass uppers but they stay there. It took several hours to get the right arrangement of size, proportion and color - and you also have to analyze how the light is going to shine on the items displayed lower shelves :-). I don't regret my glass cabinets but wouldn't get them if I needed to store stuff I used every day.

That's a pretty good allowance for a $400K home.

Just now I got the design and the price. It's coming to $16,082.00 + sales tax. I may have some negotiation room here. Let me know your comments. As I have other funds set up for bath vanities and cabinets, I could use 10,000 for kitchen countertops.

Glad you have some wiggle room. Not sure the set up to the left of the fridge is the best use of that space - looks dark and too insert relative to the fridge - could you instead do like a pullout pantry cabinet?

Also, I’d swap the two-door cabinet to the left of the range for more drawers - nice deep ones will easily hold your pots and pans

I would do more drawers.

To the right of DW, do 3 large drawers and not 6 smaller ones. You can always divide a large drawer with organizers or bins, but you can't make a small drawer larger.

Agree about doing a pull out pantry to the left of fridge.

following

The left corner to the fridge is the coffee corner and I want to dedicate that with coffee machines, wall cabinets with coffee cups and base cabinet with coffee brewing related stuff. Also, I have a small wine rack and can use the space for wine glasses, etc. I want that coffee-wine corner badly. It serves our needs efficiently. I have a big reach in the pantry (8' long) on the left wall and do not need additional pantry cabinets. I always wanted a coffee corner...

The door cabinets on the left side of the range, I want to keep pots and big pans in that cabinet and also, to save some money. More drawrs are more money... so I have limitations there.

Yes, to the right of DW, I'm going to do 3 big drawers.

I saved a lot of money by installing the glass in my glass-doored cabinets myself. A locally owned hardware store cut the glass to size (KD actually measured the openings for me) and all I had to do was place it in the opening and slide over the hardware that holds it in. I saved hundreds of dollars doing it this way!

Is there any crown molding? I don’t see it in the rendering.

To left of sink base, can do 1 large vs 2 cabinets, and do under sink trash bins?

Drawers are SO much nicer for storing pots & pans esp. because they are used SO often; would splurge and make that a drawer base cabinet.

Do you really want those 6 small upper cabinets? Likely much less expensive to do taller upper wall cabinets?

Wow, that price sounds great! That’s a lot of cabinetry and not a huge bill!
Any chance you can turn the island so that the drawers are facing the sink instead of the cooktop? Just seems like it might have better flow.

I hear ya about the coffee station - so great! But I think you're overestimating how functional this current version will be. In addition to probably being inaccessible if someone has the left fridge door open, it's pretty far from a water source (sink) and the path goes through the main cooking/prep area. Also, many coffee makers are large - and could easily take up virtually all the counter space (how wide is it? 15"?) In addition to supplies, will you store coffee cups & spoons in the cupboards there or more likely over to the right of the sink near the DW? (which means more back-and-forthing).

You mentioned a reach-in pantry to the left... is that through the doorway or will it be in place of the wall that's in the elevations? Could you work a great coffee station into that space (perhaps even with its own water?)

Just for an idea, here's our coffee station to the right of our fridge. The cabinet is 30" wide and works beautifully.

Here it is closed:

And opened:

Great points, especially, the suggestions to use tall cabinets to avoid the stacked glass inserts and the closed coffee station. I could save some bucks by eliminating those glass inserts (though I love the look). My goal is to get cabinets under 15K. There could be a builder/contractor discount and most probably I'll be able to get the deal under 15K.

How about going with tall cabinets and keeping the glass inserts in the cabs by the sink?

Have you considered doing the coffee station to the right of the sink?

We have considered that. However, functionally, where it is now would work the best. We have a mudroom/ garage entrance next to the coffee station and would love to grab a cup and leave for office.

I thought about turning the island facing sink, however, I usually wash food items for a week, store them in the fridge and just take it and prep and cook every day. Due to that, my island should be next to the fridge and range than the sink. Main reason for me wanting the island is to use it as a prep place. Currently, it serves me perfectly. However, if I turn the other way, I may be able to get a 7' island than the current 6'. I will ask the KD to give a try and see how it looks and feels.

Another question:

I was checking the cost of countertops yesterday at the local building store from where I m getting the lumber and cabinets. I was thinking about granite due to budget reasons, but my builder has long years of business and contacts at the store and the store said that they can offer me mid-premium grade quality quartz for 85/sqft material, delivered and installed.

Here is how I calculated the sqft:

Island= 72" x 33", single slab with no cuttings = 17 sqft

L countertop = 15.4' x 13' and 26" wide. That's 52sqft. With a 36" fridge, 36" range and 33" sink subtracted, it will be about 42 sqft. So I'm looking at a 62-64 sqft total countertop requirement. That brings the price to $5500. Am I right here? If I can get the countertop installed within 5500, I'm actually getting only to $21000 and under budget with my allowance.

Is my calculation missing something?

Personally I would prefer a nicer granite to quartz. Quartz is man made and looks it. It lacks depth

Upgrade out of Shiloh Aspect builder grade into the Real Shiloh mid grade level, add 25%. No crown, add 15% for a proper stacked crown. Not enough drawers. Add 15% for more drawers. Finished ends not handled correctly, add 10%. Glass sourced separately, add 5%. Installation costs, add 20%. All of that has to come out of the allowance budget too.

Aspect isn’t the same thing that people are talking about when they mean Shiloh. To a builder, it gets the name, but it’s not the same level at all.

Data you may find applicable to your project.

Ohh..I forgot about the crown. Yes, I have the crown, but its separate and countered in the crown molding allowance for the rest of the house.

Cabinet crown is 10x as expensive as painted plain millwork. You need to choose cabinet crown if you want it to 100% match the cabinets. Color matching the room crown can work if there is a good local specialist, but the sheens never quite match to do that.

Again, Shiloh Aspect isn’t the Shiloh that everyone gives the good reviews to. It is not a mid level quality product. It is builder grade. It’s a bit of bait and switch to not tell you that that is the line that they are putting you in. They are NOT the same.

I'm not getting Shiloh Aspect, I'm getting Shiloh, from https://www.shilohcabinetry.com/.

Regarding granite vs Quartz, Quartz is more durable, easy to clean and that's what makes my life easy.

Good point from Live_wire_oak above and not likely something that many folks would know. Have them confirm which Shiloh you are getting and consider upgrading beyond the builder grade cabinets. The drawer comments are good ones and I would never store my pots and pans in a cabinet over a drawer, so look at changing that cabinet to drawers. Wayyyyy nicer for pots and pans.

Reduce size of pantry / relocate coffee station to right side of pantry using 30 inch cabinet (current cab is much too small). Use these hinges https://www.rockler.com/ez-pocket-door-system-pocket-door-slide?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI95eotOHG5QIVDr7ACh0R9A8MEAQYAyABEgLBdvD_BwE

Left of fridge- replace current with one tall cab, adjustable shelves, for paper towel rolls/bulk items/pet food. Change drawer pulls to single bar to prevent "wracking". All base cabs to wide drawers, the difference in functionality is amazing.

I would just leave the coffee corner where it is now. It's an 18" cabinet and all I need from that space is like what's shown below.

A countertop to hold the Nespresso coffee machine that is 9" wide, wall cabinet with three shelves, 2 for coffee cups and 1 for wine, 3-drawer (going to change to drawer) base cabinet to hold the spoons on the first drawer, coffee, and sugar on the second and additional cups on the third. We are two adults and a child family and have only 10 coffee cups for daily use. I have seen 18" cabinets beautifully do meet that need.

I wouldn't take an inch from the pantry space as I need a pantry as big as possible due to my cooking style.

Does Shiloh still not have no uncharge for inset?

I think another way to say this is, Shiloh charges everyone the higher price for inset, even if they don't get inset. I looked at them ... but walked away, and this was one of the reasons.

The paint was not a huge upgrade for me.

I've heard as much as 30% on this board and elsewhere ... but I don't have personal knowledge of that.

Do larger cabinets rather than more smaller ones. Be sure to get a simple light rail for the cabinet bottoms

Two pieces of good advice. Yes, a 36" cabinet will cost more than an 18" cabinet, but the 36" will hold more because it won't require space "in the middle" for hardware ... and a single 36" will be MUCH cheaper than two 18"es.

I chose to do a slab door for the top drawer as I think Shaker looks ridiculous in a small space.

I agree, though it's nothing but opinion.

If you like glass cabinets, one way to minimize expense is to not have the glass done by the factory but installed by a local window/glass place.

Keep in mind that the glass itself isn't the big cost. With glass-fronts, you must also pay to "finish" the interior.

Personally I would prefer a nicer granite to quartz. Quartz is man made and looks it. It lacks depth

I agree, but even if you don't agree, granite is NOT a "budget" choice.

Color matching the room crown can work if there is a good local specialist, but the sheens never quite match to do that.

That's a great idea.

I wouldn't take an inch from the pantry space as I need a pantry as big as possible due to my cooking style.

You might kick around the idea of placing the coffee station IN the large pantry. Pantry space is way-way-way cheaper than cabinets.

Does Shiloh still not have no uncharge for inset?

I think another way to say this is, Shiloh charges everyone the higher price for inset, even if they don't get inset. I looked at them ... but walked away, and this was one of the reasons.

I am not quite sure what you are saying Mrs Pete. Inset and partial overlay are the same price in Shiloh (ie no upcharge for inset). If you do full overlay, price will actually go up a bit. Why did you walk away from Shiloh exactly? Were you wanting full overlay? Did you find a better price with an apples to apples line (ie plywood, blum, soft close doors)? Maybe it was your dealer that charged the higher price (full overlay) and offered all at the same price?

I have compared Shiloh inset and full overlay to other mid-range brands I carry. They are less than KraftMaid and Medallion Gold and those brands don't come standard with plywood ends. If I add plyends or plybox to either, Shiloh becomes even more of a better price.

What did you end up buying?

I am not quite sure what you are saying Mrs Pete.

I'm saying that inset is typically a more expensive /more labor intensive product -- it's also trendy right now -- so if a company offers it for no up-charge, the reality is that they've priced all their cabinets to cover this more expensive option. They're not in business to give things away.

I'm still shopping, but Shiloh is coming out higher than some of the others I've checked, and -- yes -- I'm paying close attention to quality. Is it something to do with my specific dealer? That I couldn't say; I only shopped one Shiloh dealer.

I would recommend a custom millworker in your area then you get exactly what you want and usually I find them to be more competitive price wise

I don't like the mix of solid doors over glass doors and glass doors over solid. I would personally eliminate the entire upper set of cabinets and just make the uppers taller. With those top cabinets, I would either use glass everywhere, solid everywhere or glass only over the glass doors around the window.

I think the coffee station looks too small and dark, a bit like a cave. Have you considered a glass door for that space? Or, perhaps open shelving, maybe a mix with a short door or vertical dimension matching the over fridge cabinet and another row of shelving underneath.

Lyndee... it's amazing how different human brain perceives things...... What you dislike, solid over glass and glass over solid is exactly what I love. Solid tall wall cabinets give me an enclosed feeling and in order to break that I gave those inserts. With nice lighting, those glass inserts give me a different spacial feeling.

I already explained the reason for that coffee station and it's an 18" inch cabinet. It's going to be convenient as it is separated from the traffic area of the kitchen, allows to grab a coffee on the way out, not stealing other valuable space and allows the fridge to open past 90 degrees.

Another point... I hate open shelves too...

Lyndee... it's amazing how different human brain perceives things...... What you dislike, solid over glass and glass over solid is exactly what I love.

These aren't functional choices that can be rationalized or optimized. These are design preferences ... and they're secondary to good layout.

I already explained the reason for that coffee station and it's an 18" inch cabinet. It's going to be convenient as it is separated from the traffic area of the kitchen, allows to grab a coffee on the way out, not stealing other valuable space and allows the fridge to open past 90 degrees.

I like the idea of a "separate place" for the coffee ... I'd like it also to be large enough to hold a bowl of fruit or a cake under a dome. Perhaps even an open shelf for the microwave. Adapting a name from the Not So Big House series, I think of this as an "away space" for the kitchen. This space stores your "always outs" and keeps the rest of your kitchen clutter free.

I do think it'd be nice if you could widen it up to at least 24" . 18" is barely wider than the laptop upon which I am typing these words.

A larger separate coffee bar elsewhere would be functional. That 18” is not adequate even for a Keurig station in a hotel. Even they are bigger than that. Not to mention any serious coffee production involving a grinder and a machine. And the etc. that goes with it.

Mrs Pete, very valid and I agree 100%.

I wanted a separate space away from my heavy work area. I wish I could get that to 24", but all I have is 18". I'm posting pics of the floor plan and let me know if you guys seeing some places that I can adjust to get the coffee station to 24".

Pic1: Floor plan and the reddish highlighted area is the heavy traffic area of my kitchen.

Pic2 & 3: I designed kitchen cabinets based on the labeled needs and where I want to see them. I haven't labeled the other side of the kitchen island, but I have two 24" cabinets to store all big pots that are used seldom.

Are the two stacks of drawers (right of dishwasher) two separate cabinets? Just so you know...you can order ONE 36" wide drawers. Have a divider installed in the drawers. Or if you prefer six separate drawers, order it customized like this: Combine two B18-3 in to one cabinet. Make center stile 1.5" wide (NOT 3"). If you do that, you'll get wider drawers. All six drawers will be almost an inch wider plus it will look better (no joint line. You will have a cabinet joint line if you screw two base cabinets together.)

Yes, they are designed as two separate drawers and I'm changing that to 36" as you've suggested. It was a mistake from KD and I think she already corrected it. Those small ones serve not much.

It can look super cute if you do a split top drawer....and the bottom two drawers would be full width. Like these pics. Just make sure center stile between two tops drawers is 1.5", not 3" if you do inset style overlay

.

Look at Corian's Glacier White countertops. I've had them now for 34 years. Yes, I DID re-use them when I remodeled my kitchen over 3 years ago! And they look as good as the day they were installed. Corian, in the bottom pay scale (which includes Glacier White) is about $42 a sq foot installed. It's such a great product and is pretty much bullet proof. I like the white as it keeps a kitchen looking light, and it's easy to see if the countertop is dirty (I like to KNOW if it is, not hide dirt - it's my kitchen!), and it goes with everything.

I used honed Carrera marble large subway tiles for my backsplash and the two surfaces work very well together.

If you change the 33” cabinets on each side of the range to 30” cabinets that gives you an extra 6” that you can add to the coffee station and still maintain the range symmetry.

An 18" coffee corner..

Just think about the trash generated from that setup though.

This. When I design a coffee station, I always include a spot for a trash can and, ideally, a sink within arm's reach.

TCK, I also have one of those coffee people living in my house! :-)

We have a coffee bar in our showroom for our clients. We use "compostable" pods from San Francisco Bay Coffee Company (available Amazon) but also keep a few plastic pods on hand as well. We have a small flip top stainless steel container on top for pod disposal. I eventually plan to get a compost bin in one of the drawers. I have powdered creamer on hand...but inside the wine fridge is a nice bottle of real liquid whipping cream! Mmmmm.

Ps Here is the coffee we order that are compostable. Really pretty good coffee compared to others. I also like Green Mountain's southern pecan...for those who like flavored coffee. I like it once in a while.

CLICK HERE FOR SAN FRANCISCO BAY COMPOSTABLE PODS

This is the machine we have. We are also non-Keurig users. I just measured it and it's 8 inches wide leaving 9-10 inches for other stuff. I saw a suggestion to reduce 33" draws flanking range to 30. But those draws are the arteries of my cooking and keeping them as big as possible will help me more than 24" wide coffee corner. In another way, I just want a separate space for the coffee machine where I spend around 10 minutes/day from my cooking space where I spend 2 hours/day.

CooksKitchen you just cracked me up!

I was a coffee snob until a friend gifted me with a Nespresso which makes fabulous espresso - it even has the crema on top. Unlike Keurig, Nespresso only makes espresso although you can hack an Americano by using the double water option.

I have fairly green footprint and am only making coffee for one but this sure beats the mess I had when I would grind my beans and froth my milk up with a spigot with steam. The Nespresso frother is a life changer for those of us who like lattes or even cappuccinos.