Faron, Thank you so much for writing back right away. You are so knowledgeable and generous with your time. I just want my walls to look nice and I was afraid if I skipped the primer, the paint may not stick. These forums (especially Michael) has taught me how important it is to prep the walls before painting and I can see how nice my other walls look by following this advice and making sure my painter did what I told him to do. But my bathroom was just painted and I am not changing the color much at all. I guess it is my fault for taking a shower too soon in the room and not putting the fan on in the room after each shower since I have no windows and that is why the paint is now streaking. All the other rooms look great and the other bathrooms have no problems that are rarely used. I do have the guest bathroom that I can take showers in for one week. I rarely use it since I like taking showers in my master bathroom with the glass doors than in a tub with a shower curtain. I only use that bathroom for guests or to wash my little doggies. I guess for one week, I can use the guest bathroom to shower in despite a little smell from my doggie's puppy pads in there. I guess I should feel blessed that my townhouse has 2 1/2 baths and has a lot of room. I just keep the puppy pads in there since in the winter time my spoiled little 5.8 lb Maltese, Sassy does not like to go outside. My other little doggies will go outside in my fenced in backyard on the stones but not the little Miss Princess Sassy who has always been like this knowing her cuteness will win out. I am just changing the color slightly since the BM Navajo White is only slightly less yellow than the Deep Cream and the Navajo White which I feel will go better with the bone colored Jacuzzi and the two bone colored sinks and the bone colored toilet, as well as the taupe tiles up the sides of the Jacuzzi and shower stall. The extra gray in the Navajo White surprisingly does not look gray to me in that room but warms the walls up and takes away the lemon cast that to me just did not look right against the taupe tiles. They are so similar in color and the formulas show it (Navajo White has 4 Less Units of Oxide Yellow and 4 more units of Gray and 1/2 extra unit of Orange than the deep cream color but otherwise they are so much alike in formula) but the room will then appear less lemon but still happy and bright and be semi-gloss like I wanted since I have no windows in it and I want to be able to clean it easily when I brush my teeth and get my walls dirty. I love my new pictures and my new olive towels and new olive rug and I feel they will go better with walls that do not have that lemon cast to them. I guess I should ask the paint store for a "liquid deglosser" and they will know what I mean? I can degloss part of the bathroom except for the tallest walls I will not be able to reach even with a tall ladder since I am not quite 5 feet. Maybe I can do what I can before painter arrives and he can do the rest. I think he is not that tall either (but much taller than me) but has tall ladders and long poles for his rollers. I had the painter tint the primer deep cream last time for the deep cream room and bone white tinted for the bone white room. I guess that was not really necessary since the colors are so light. The painter used the Deep Cream tinted primer for the Philadelphia Painted room telling me it was not worth going out to buy new primer. I wonder if this is why that room turned out more yellow than I had thought it would be.

kevhead, forgot to say your painted doors look great! It's been a long time since I posted about my CC kitchen experience. I used that paint on all my trim/doors and love it! It's been a couple years and has held up exceptionally well. Takes nicks and bumps much better than 'regular' latex paint. But my cabinets I made some mistakes on and I knew better. Read and learn from my mistakes, grasshopper ;) I did not scrub thoroughly enough. (Use a good deep pre-paint cleaner like Dirtex.) Scuff sand the surface. My cabinet fronts were dark 70's stained oak and from prior owners had lots of oils in the wood, both cooking and polish. (You should have seen the rag when I scrubbed them during move in.) So I know that stuff was in the wood, not just on it. I primed with Zinsser Bullseye 123, which is an outstanding primer and I've used it everywhere on all kinds of surfaces including concrete block. In my situation, in hindsight, I should have used an oil-based primer. After about a year I had a couple pin head size spots here and there where the 'nick' went clear down to the old 70's stain. So that tells me my primer wasn't grabbing. (Again, I failed to scrub well and didn't scuff sand well at all. In the midst of a huge remodel, I was totally burned out when I tackled the cabs and never should have done it in that frame of mind.) I now have a couple more areas that show the original surface. Can't emphasize enough: prep is everything and I made some bad judgment calls. I first used CC on rental property cabs about 5 years ago. They were painted in a white oil-based paint, so we didn't prime them. They are holding up so well and still look fresh and new. Rentals take higher than average wear, and those cabinets turned out better than mine :/ Also, in my own home DH installed new, pre-primed doors and trim. After 2 years they still look like brand new. No nicks, nada. I am so pleased with the performance of CC on those projects! So the reason my kitchen cabs have 'issues' is because I failed to properly prep. Save yourself the grief, get the prep part done well! ;D Once I primed I used my preferred Purdy XL Dale Pro brush and a 6" foam roller. I did the large areas with the foam roller, and immediately came right behind and did a brush swipe to level out little pock marks from the roller. When doing it this way, the brush cannot be completely dry (it will pull the CC off) nor can it be loaded as if you were putting another coat on (CC will drip and run). I kept the bristles 'moist', dipped as if I were doing another coat with the brush, but wiped the side edges, gently scraped the bristle tips, so the brush was probably loaded at 50% max with the CC. Then did my brush stroke in the roller's path. You don't have a lot of play time, this has to be done immediately. Watch for drips/runs as you go. I just used a brush to do the thinner areas, such as frames, etc. Oh, one more thing, for anyone interested CC is self priming. I've done experiments to see how well that works. It does self prime but on darker/stained surfaces it takes a lot more coats of CC. So on a stained surface, I used primer to save $, because it took less coats of CC to finish. I had two cheapy cherry stained plant stands. I painted one with CC and no primer, it took a good 5 coats. The other I primed first with Bullseye and then topcoated with CC. That one took 3 coats max. I have to go cook sweet taters now ;) Will be on vacation starting tomorrow and won't be around. I'm pretty sure Michael has a CC tutorial floating around somewhere (or at least tips) and others here have experience with CC too, if you get in a pinch. ;)

I always use an extender with Aura. It gives you more time before drying. If you're painting a bathroom, research "surfactant leaching." This happens when the paint in a bathroom isn't fully cured, and you use the shower. Google photos of surfactant leaching. Most paint stores will say latex cures in a few days, but I had this problem in two homes and did extensive research. You get ugly drips down the walls, and they are yellow or brown. You can wash it off, but it comes back. Now, when I paint a bathroom, I wait 30 days before using the shower. That may be overkill, and if you only have one shower, that would not be possible.

Thanks so much for the comments. I didn't tell anyone, but dh and kd about the two tone until it was done. Kd was very apathetic and probably wouldn't have cared if I'd said I wanted blue and purple. Good for you for running from a kd who couldn't see your vision. The first part of our reno was done just as starpooh was creating the FKB and I kept thinking "after I do this one thing, then I'll post pics in the FKB". First it was making the island, then finding the perfect antique cabinet, then making the upper cabinet to go above the antique cabinet and on and on. I'm hoping to strip the doors on the wall cabinet I made (used antique doors and built the cab around them) and paint them the same colour as the rest of the cabs - then I promise I will post pics in the FKB (but will obviously have to hire someone to take the pictures ;-)