More likely a real hardware store. They are usually about 1/4 inch wide to clean out mortar joints in brick. A big box might have them around the masonry/brick supplies. If you cannot find on a 1/4 inch cold chisel can be made to work, they are just harder to hit firmly.

Do you know how it's attached, and do you care what condition it's in when you're done? Some mirrors are attached only with screwed-in clips, and with those you just unscrew the clips starting at the top and lift the mirror out of the clips at the bottom. That's the ideal. More likely it's glued to the drywall and it can be easy or nightmarish to remove depending on how liberal the installers were with the glue. Two or even three people are needed for this operation. If you don't care if it breaks, cover the entire surface of the mirror with at least one layer of clear contact paper or duct tape; if you're hoping to save it, use 3" wide masking tape as it's somewhat easier to remove than contact paper or duct tape. Then pick up a roll of braided, uncoated wire at the hardware store and cut a length twice the width of the mirror. Piano wire also works if you can get it. Put down a heavy dropcloth, wear gloves, long pants, long-sleeved shirts, sturdy shoes, and safety glasses (no, regular eyeglasses do not count). Two people stretch the wire between them and slip it down behind the mirror, then start pulling it back and forth in a sawing motion, pulling downward at the same time. The third person should stand ready to catch the mirror as it begins to move away from the wall. If there's a lot of glue this is a slow process, if there isn't much this can go very quickly. If the mirror butts against walls on both sides (is in a niche) and you can't get a wire down behind it, you'll probably have to break the mirror. After taping, use a rubber mallet to gently break the mirror into pieces beginning at the top corners. As you break up enough glass that it starts pulling away from the wall, use a utility knife to cut the tape so you can remove that section and drop it into a cardboard box inside a trash bag. Some sections won't want to pull off the wall and a wide-bladed, rigid taping knife is useful for wiggling down behind that section to pry it off. The condition of the wall afterwards can vary from patches of glue on the surface of the drywall (cut/scrape away the paper with the goo on it and skimcoat with joint compound) to big holes where the mirror pulled the drywall right apart (happens more often at the bottom as the weight of the mirror falls forward)! For the latter, if they're bigger than about fist-size, even up the holes by cutting them back to the closest studs with a drywall saw and patching in new drywall. Smaller holes can be patched with rigid metal-mesh drywall patch kits from the hardware store or home improvement center (IMO they work better than the flexible fiberglass ones).

Hi everybody! I have been waiting all summer for it to cool off. It seems that the heat makes my dizziness and nausea worse. I have lost about 15 lbs with being too sick to eat throughout the summer. I just this week got my helper here to help me clean the garage and then I moved the vanity out there and sanded it a bit in the easy places, and got it up on a table. I got the brass floor protectors pried off the bottom of the legs and was pleased to find no holes have been drilled in them. That means that I can drill holes for the feet I bought. I have adjustable feet that will give the vanity an extra 1/2" of height, and that can be screwed up to give another 1/2" if we want. That would make the legs appear to float way too high in the air, so I don't think it will work. the extra 1/2" will have to suffice, with the ability to make the vanity level so that the sink will drain properly. I have also decided that the bail-type handles that came with it are not going to work for us. I can't see us fumbling around trying to grab the bail that has recessed back into the grooves of the handle around it, standing there with water or soap in our eyes. A knob is much easier to use. I had Hubby try using the bail and he vetoed it on the first try and said, "replace 'em!" I am using these on doors of a set of shallow cupboards that will be recessed into the closet of the the neighboring bedroom. I figured they were a sure bet for the six drawers, too. I am not going to use the center drawer anymore, what with all the plumbing going on above it, so I will just fill in those holes. I need to cut away the bottom of the drawer space, then move the drawer support piece to the left or right. It is at dead center right now, and the sink's drain will need to go there. I just have to sand down the fluted areas of the vanity table, then it will be ready to be primed and painted. I am still leaning toward painting it the violet Peace and Happiness. I have purchased more components for the plumbing. I have all of the shower controls and the rain shower head and regular shower head. Still need to get the hand-held and some safety hand-hold bars for the shower area. I still have not finalized a wall tile (looking at fake Cararra tile for the room's walls) or floor tile or the surface for the top of the vanity. We HAVE concluded, though, that we cannot get this job done until Toby, our ever-more-confused beagle/golden retriever mix, dies. He will be 16 at the end of this month. He has spinal arthritis and began vomiting every time he was given his Tramadol or his glucosamine/chondroitin pills, then quit taking them. He had to go on prednisone to control the pain. He is peeing a lot in the house, always on a rug or quilted mattress pad put down for him. The bathroom is his main place to pee. I will not have my new floor grout saturated with dog pee. I don't think the poor guy would cope well with the construction, either. He is now blind in one eye and somewhat deaf. It would be too confusing for him to do all that construction. So even though I can't get Jim over here to do the work, if I could, I would not be able to do it until Toby passes on. So, instead, we are getting new gutters and trim, and getting our four remaining windows replaced. We did the other three windows when we remodeled the kitchen and made the living room into the library/music room. I am in the process of cleaning and decluttering so the window guys can get in to measure!

dmac1108 Mine is a custom vanity. I specified I want slab drawer fronts and doors and bought the edge pulls myself. Regarding the curbless shower, this particular shower does have some water came out on the floor via the small gap in between the door and the fixed panel due to the shower width being quite narrow at 30". Also the door is a bit too close to the shower head because I have a bench on the other end of the shower. If I didn't have a bench on the other side, the door wouldn't be so close to the shower then I might not have that problem. At the end I added a clear threshold on the floor where the glass door is and it minimizes most of the water coming out. On the other hand, my other curbless shower that's wider (~54"), that one has no water coming out at all. So I will say it depends on the width of your shower and the location of the "gap".