Your local upholsterer / seamstress/er should be able to do this for you. You can have cushions made which will either be entirely loose or which can have a fastening device on the back (velcro, straps, etc.). You know what might be a good fabric choice for you? Outdoor fabric (like Sunbrella). I think I remember you have little kids (because I think we have the same inside trampoline), and that outdoor fabric is v. kid friendly! Some pleathers are nicer than others ....

So it just so happens that I got an e-mail ad from Harbor Freight Tools showing the knockoff for $19.99, and I figured for that price, I could buy it just in case I get the guts to do this. You see, I've been refacing the cabinets for the last 4 years (working on and off)...but at the time I bought the refacing supplies, my options were unstained (yuk), dark, and "harvest oak". So I got the oak. It's not bad as oak goes -- it doesn't have that yellow look that oak can get, it's shaker doors, and I suppose if I wait long enough, oak will come back. But the kitchen has another problem that has to be addressed: It's 9.5' x 17' and the work area is a U along a wall shared with a bathroom and a load-bearing wall. It's sort of cut in half in the middle by the refrigerator on one side and a wall oven cabinet plunked in the middle of the wall on the other side. Between the wall oven and the start of the "L" (which has the cooktop) is a door to the outside. I would LOVE to get rid of that wall oven cabinet and replace the cooktop with a range. If I keep the existing pseudo-cabinets (and you can read my sad "Kitchen Hell" story, with photos, here, the appliance place said they can cut into the existing base cabinet and finish it off, which will also give sufficient clearance from the outside wall that would be next to the side of the range. But then the oven opens up and blocks the door, so I'm not sure how good an idea that is, even though another house on my block did just that. The other issue is that I would lose four cabinets, which I would want to replace by building a wall of cabinets on the other 9-1/2' wall that is blank...but I have no idea what I'd put up there. I'd hate to do more oak, but I have no idea what would go with. If anyone wants to take a crack at venturing opinions, I can take more photos. Or I can just live in this horrid kitchen until I can afford to remodel it (and can find a reputable contractor who would do it without costing me all my savings). It IS, after all, just a 1950's cape.

Put a small bowl of ammonia in oven, close door and LEAVE 24 HOURS. Fumes from ammonia will soften burnt on foods and will be easy to clean. Do not use a soppy wet rag, use a damp/wet rag to clean inside of oven. Rinse well with clean damp/wet rag. Reach all areas possible around the heating elements. Depending on how dirty the oven is you may need to repeat this process. AMMONIA FUMES WILL BE STRONG WHEN OVEN DOOR IS OPENED. DO NOT INHALE WHILE OPENING THE DOOR.

@ mike - I was thinking about a multi-tool. Home Despot has the Ryobi on sale for $28. I was wondering - I had been considering getting a dremel tool anyway because I need to do things like cut solder blobs to remove the end panels on bird cages and to cut cabinet door knob bolts off flush... Could a multi tool be configured to do either job? I wonder if because of the vibration I might not be able to hold it steady enough to not cut through the wires on the bird cage. Some of those solder blobs don't have a lot of clearance. I mean the standard dremel tool, not their version of the multi tool. I used to have one when I was still doing silver work. Here are a couple pictures of what I mean about sawing through solder blobs. The wire panels on these bird cages are held to the frame only by these small solder blobs and having end wires that slot into openings on the frame. So if I remove the solder blobs I can slip the end panels off, zip tie the cages together, and have one ginormous bird cage. This is a solder blob that is close to the wires: Below is a solder blob with plenty of space to saw through it: Don't get me wrong, its not that I don't like tools - but I'm sort of past using them most of the time, and I'm not exactly in the economic upper echelon. I got mo' problems, but I sure don't got mo' money, LOL! So I'm wondering if the multi tool in my not so steady anymore hands can do this job as well, or if I'd be better served to stick with the less vibrate-y and (I think anyway) more flexible and maneuverable regular ol' standard Dremel tool. Also, here are the type of cabinet knobs I'm talking about. The way these ought to be installed is, you drill a well - a hole that doesn't go all the way through - on the back of the door or drawer where you will be installing the knob, centered over the hole for the bolt. It should be as deep as the holding nut is tall or maybe a little deeper. You should be able to grab the nut with needlenose pliers to stabilize it when screwing the knob on. So wide enough to do that. Then you saw off the excess post sticking out so its flush with the back. So you don't have that long post sticking out into your drawer. This type of mount isn't usually used in better furniture, and isn't possible at all if you've got the crappy particle board/composite stuff that we mostly get stuck with these days. I see a lot of these installed incorrectly, leaving that post sticking way out like that. Anyway. I'd like to use some of these on my kitchen cabinets so I'd need to be able to cut that post off flush. I know I can do it with a Dremel, but can a multi-tool do it as well? Or does the vibration make precision a distant dream? LOL!