Bill is the fabric needed? I thought it wasn't. We tape'd the corners with stucco mesh / drywall mesh and speed set and these last two bathrooms have been boarded with Denshield. We board with construction adhesive and screws then tape our seems and fill the screw heads with a touch of speedset. The next day the installation is a tank and we Hydro Ban. The next day we give it a second coat and let it dry out for a few hours while we work on the cut list and any polishing or millwork needed for the install. We have build many showers before this way and have had great success. Am I missing something? I viewed the spec sheet at Laticrete and it doesn't mention the use of fabric - on the contrary it says it's not needed. Here is a link that might be useful: Hydro Ban Spec Sheet

Thank you so much for your swift and wonderfully detailed response. Your knowledge and experience is a great help to us. First, let me say that our initial gray water system drain setup was just a test to see how it was working before we finalized the system. We had plans to drain into a storage tank system if we exceeded the Tucson, AZ gray water guidelines which are much less stringent than Californias gray water guidelines as a result of AZs restricted supply of fresh water and our states desire to conserve the limited fresh water supply we have. Fortunately, we do not exceed our local gray water guidelines as our gray water is only from one shower and does not run off of our property. If I understand your statement: "if you have a 2" pipe with a ¼" per/ft pitch the maximum distance from the trap weir (the point on the trap where the inverted U section turns horizontal on the output side) to the vent opening may not exceed 2" / .25" = 8" then we are OK as our vent pipe is almost exactly 8 from the trap weir. Im not sure what this means: "Under the Uniform Plumbing Code the maximum developed length of a 2" waste arm may not exceed 5." But since we are under and are within the specifications of - the local Tucson, Pima County, AZ plumbing gray water guidelines it might not matter. Do you happen to know whether there is a limitation on how far we can run the drain before the actual drain opening into the perforated pipe youve proposed? Right now, our run is about 60 from the drain in the shower to the end of the gray water drain pipe. Regarding the vent pipe rise: I can replace the 2 flat vent pipe run with a 45 degree bend then take that directly to the 10 vertical vent pipe. Or replace the tee and this time turn the tee up and set the branch off point from the tee to the vent pipe at 45 degrees instead of (almost) parallel to the ground like the existing one is set. Thanks for clarifying this for me. I believe federal law supersedes state and local law. However, the AZ Department of Environmental Quality clearly spells out the guidelines for using gray water at home in Arizona. I have pasted an excerpt of the guidelines at the end of this posting, along with the web address for the entire brochure. Thank you also for the estimation of water usage per person per shower: "2 occupants x 25gal/person = 50gallons/day" There is nothing else hooked up to this gray water drain system, only this one shower. So 50 gallons/day is about how much water will be going out for gray water irrigation. And this information you gave us is invaluable: "You could then connect your pipe to a perforated pipe, which has a minimum volume of 50gal, but the total overall length of the perforated pipe may not exceed 100. A 3" pipe has a volume of 2.75gal/ft so a 3" line 137.5 long would contain 50gal, however, the length of the line exceeds the maximum allowable length of 100 so you would have to increase the line to 4" diameter. A 4" line has a capacity of 1.53/gal so you would need 50gal x 1.53ft/gal = 76.5 of 4" perforated pipe." This formula will help us calculate what kind of leach field we need based on the length of the run of the perforated portion of the drain pipe. The entire width of our back yard (the part were trying to irrigate) is not much more than 70. Right now, the gray water from a 10 minute shower wont even make it to the end of the temporary test trench I dug from one end of our lower back yard to the other. And the water never even runs off anywhere into the back yard at 102 degree Fahrenheit average daytime / 90 degree Fahrenheit average evening temperature the water doesnt even sit in the trench very long. What doesnt get absorbed into the dirt right away evaporates pretty quickly even in the evening. So I feel confident that were not going to exceed the basic requirements from our local and state laws. The local plants and critters (lizards, ants etc.) are having a great time at our new back yard oasis though! My wife and I really want to thank you for all your time and for sharing your knowledge and experience. The information you provided will help us set up our gray water system so it is safe, efficient and environmentally sound. Thank you very much again. Here is the information I mentioned earlier: http://www.azdeq.gov/environ/water/permits/download/graybro.pdf The basic requirements to use gray water at your home are simple: Residents must adhere to the guidelines for a Reclaimed Water Type 1 General Permit. A Type 1 General Permit requires no formal notification to the department, no review or design approval, and no public notice, reporting or renewal. Although you dont have to apply to receive a formal permit for permission to use gray water, you must abide by the 13 best management practices (BMPs) listed in this brochure, which were developed to protect public health and water quality. Permit Eligibility and Usage Requirements The general permit is meant for private residential use only. Gray water must be used on the site where it is generated. The area of use cannot be accessible by the public. Under this general permit, gray water can only be used for irrigation not for dust control, cooling or other water uses. Only drip or flood irrigation with gray- water is allowed. Spray irrigation is not permitted due to the potential for inhalation or drifting off-site. Gray water flow must be less than 400 gallons per day. In general, no city, town or county may limit the use of gray water if the use is allowed by this general permit (ARS §49-204). For a copy of the gray water rule, call the nearest ADEQ office or download it at: www.azsos.gov/public_services/title_18/18-09.pdf. The gray water rule can be found in Title 18, Chapter 9, Article 7.

There are offset flanges that should work if its only an inch. If you haven't already tried to set the pan in place, you can also use an air chisel to remove the cement around the pipe and give some space to move it one way or the other. When we installed a new shower unit in our basement, the directions said we should leave about a 6"x6" square of concrete open, with the 2" shower drain pipe sticking up through it. That provided some flexibility to adjust/offset the pipe location after everything was framed and we knew the final location of the prefab shower pan. Once we knew the final placement we just cut off the pipe at the right height and connected it to the pan. Bruce

seems like it could be a tough one since smell is subjective (although there's probably something out there that can measure smell) plus if more than 1 of u can smell it that'll help. I'm just thinking ahead if u need to file a complain with the licensing board. How long has it been since u texted him? was a good with texts before? i hope he's getting in touch with who he will and then get back to u but would be nice if he let u know he got your msg and will deal with it. I have a very sensitive nose so this problem would be a big one for me. I just got a bunch of air purifiers and have been learning more about pure air. your nose is telling u something. glad u r listening to your body