Amy greenhouse tips
nulesm
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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nulesm
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Greenhouse Tips
Comments (9)My discovery may be something that is just special to my region or my greenhouse situation. I live in mild zone 7b. Most of my container plants are tropical fruit trees, but varieties that can take it down to the high 20's (i.e. no mangoes) sooo I don't have to keep the air super warm. I try to keep things in the high 40's or low 50's at night as much of the winter as I can but I don't kill myself if a winter storm rips through. My greenhouse is really a hoophouse or high tunnel, metal pipe frame with greenhouse plastic sheeting covering, double layer for the roof with an inflator, roll up side walls and front and back doors (these are huge and take up most of the space). I built it on an old basketball court so there is an asphalt floor. The structure is 20 feet wide and 30 feet long. The ridge is 15 feet high which makes the need for lots of heat during really cold nights. I heat with an old but massive wood burning stove (firewood is free) with a powerful blower attached so as long as I want to sit out there and manage the fire I can keep it very warm. The problem is that about half way through the winter I start to sleep through the alarm and not get out there every 3 hours like I should. Soooo long story short - I discovered that if I make a flimsy tent out of very thin clear plastic in one section of the greenhouse and keep it about the size of a walk-in closet, I can keep that section really warm with just a simple 1500 watt electric space heater. Last year I used the super thin plastic sold as a cover cloth in the painting dept. It is so light weight anyone can cut it and hang it, it weighs nothing. I hung it from clothesline strung across the span of the greenhouse and kept it in place with clothespins. easy easy easy. And it saved all my tender seedlings and orchids the few nights we got really cold. My only other tip would be those clothespins and small clamps. Working around plastic sheeting and rope and such, everyday I find a different use for them. Cheap and oh-so handy....See MoreGreenhouse tips and temperatures
Comments (3)basie9 wrote: >I haven't used a greenhouse before, but my dad found a great deal on these little walk-in greenhouses. Yes, they are pretty cheap, but… I had one… >how cold is too cold, and how hot is too hot? It depends on the plants and the exterior temperature you have there. I see you mostly have flowers. If you have some tropical flowers, as Cole_Robbie said, they will NOT like low temperature. Some might not even like very high temperature either. Check the optimal temperature for the plants you have there. As Cole_Robbie said, during the day, roll up the plastic door. And if it's hot during the night keep it also open. This kind of GH get VERY hot VERY fast. If outside is 60’ F, inside can easily get to 80-90’ F. if outside is 70, even if the door is open, you will get 100’ F or more. If the door is closed, you will get 120'F +. You can do little to control the heat. For example you could use a shade fabric. These shade fabrics come in different degrees of shade. Last summer there were almost 100’F for few days and it was VERY hot inside, probably 120' F - OBVIOUSLY the door roll up - the plastic cover of the GH - the roof - started to melt. Of course, I couldn’t use it anymore. So I took it down, and I built my own GH, technically a cold frame. >I see posts about ideal ranges, but what will start to hurt my plants/seedlings? Like I said before, it all depends of the plants you have there. If vegetable seedlings, 70’ F would be the maximum. They will not die at 80’ F, but they don’t like it. And at that temperature you’ll have to water them every day. >I installed a little electric temperature instrument that I can read in the house, but I didn't know what I should be watching for? You should watch for temperature and humidity in the GH. Over 85% humidity is dangerous, because mold will develop. In my GH, I installed a fan which worked very well. The fan also help lowering the temperature in the GH. You can also put 2-3 Silica Gel packs. It helps, but make sure you refresh them often. Regarding low temperatures, inside will be at least 5 degrees higher than outside. Even more if it’s windy outside. For vegetable seedlings you will need about 55’ F inside your GH. For flowers most likely higher. So if outside temperature is lower than 50’ F you might have a problem. Yes, you can cover your GH, with a “large fleece blanket” - as Slimy_Okra suggested - but be careful not to be very heavy, because GH’ structure is pretty fragile. Do NOT use a blanket if rain is on the way. Use a poly tarp instead. VERY IMPORTANT: As Cole_Robbie said, you’ll have to anchor your greenhouse to the ground. I made a structure, a frame of 2 x 4’’ covered by a ¾’’ plywood. I fixed the GH to that structure with screws, and it passed a mini-tornado. You could also use these Hook Style Tent Stakes. Please see here my cold frame. You could get some inspiration. This post was edited by Daniel_NY on Tue, Apr 30, 13 at 23:23...See MoreAny tips for covering greenhouse with pool solar cover?
Comments (12)OK. The reason for the softball (baseball) is to have something to pull on without stretching the plastic. A round smooth rock would also work.You need to allow enough plastic to cover the ball, then lift the ball covered with plastic enough so that it appears like a ghost head under a sheet; then tie the ripe around the ghost's neck so to speak. You should be able to pull fairly hard on the ripe without damaging the plastic this way but you still need to use discretion and if pulling is hard, stop, tie off and move to next ripe or pole. Wire-loc is the best fastening method since sliced bread IMO. There are two components. First is the aluminum base which you tech-screw to the metal frame. It has a "C" shape grove. Second are the steel wiggle-wire sections that are inserted into the base while over plastic. Once fastened you can remove the wire and reuse many times. You will need to flatten pool cover bubbles where the wire is fastened. With normal 6 mil film you can have two film layers fastened With two wiggle wires on top of eachother. My greenhouse with the pool cover has an inner and outer film sandwiching the pool cover so I could only use a single wiggle wire to hold all three plastic layers on that greenhouse. _/=\_/=\_/=\_ is somewhat what wiggle wire looks like in 4' sections. It is spring steel so when installing with up and down motion anybody near you should have eye protection....See MoreNewbie greenhouse tips?
Comments (39)Hi There- You have gotten some good advice from the other contributors. Any direct light is a positive thing, however, a fluorescent light will work just fine. Grow lights really aren't that much better and they are expensive. When we used to sell vegetables at our former retail store, I would use the plastic flats with covers like the one you show above. Then I put heating pads below them to warm the soil. I tried grow lights, but to keep costs down, I reverted to the regular fluorescents. It is good to have some way to raise and lower the lights as the seedlings grow. As far as ventilation goes, you just want to make sure that the plants aren't tightly covered all the time. A little air gap will be adequate when they are small. As they get larger, it is beneficial to have a little fan on them to prevent fungal growth and naturally strengthen their stems. Peat pots are probably the best, natural products to use for starting seeds if you want to be able to plant the whole thing. They are just peat, plain and simple. I have also seen people succeed with the little newspaper starter pots that you make and egg shells. Egg Shell Starter Pots There is no problem with starting the seeds in plastic flats. However, the nice part about the natural pots that you can plant is that you don't have to disturb the root systems of the seedlings when you transplant them. As far as the coldframe goes, the time to benefit from a cold frame is before you transplant your plants into their individual, larger containers. When I started lots of veggies, I would transplant them from their flats (as shown above) into 4-4.5" pots and grow them that way for a while before planting them in their permanent, summer homes. What that does, is keeps the ratio of soil relevant to plant size and what THAT does, is helps develop strong root systems. You would want to have your coldframe off of the cold ground, but that is easy enough to do. If you were to use straw bales, you could use shallow, plastic crates to keep the plants off of the ground like these- plastic crates. The best "roofs" are made from old windows, which are inexpensive and easy to find. The reason windows work so well is that they can open and close for ventilation and temperature control. Lastly, this is what damping off is- Damping Off This is going to be the most critical thing to prevent. Once your seedlings get their true leaves, they will be less vulnerable to this problem. Until they do, it's best to keep a close eye on them, because this pathogen moves quickly and can take out all your little babies. Consider this- if you time the starting of your seedlings correctly and possibly choose varieties that have a shorter season, you may be able to avoid using a cold frame or greenhouse completely. Here in Minnesota, we really can't put plants outside for good until the end of May. The last few years, we have had killing frosts during the third or fourth week of May. However, if you harden your plants off gradually by placing them outside for a few hours a day, gradually working up to whole days and eventually 24-hour intervals; you'll be just fine :)...See Morenulesm
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4 years agoMonyet
4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
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4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agoMonyet
4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agoMonyet
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agoMonyet
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMonyet
4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agoMonyet
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agoMonyet
4 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
4 years agosunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
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4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
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4 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
4 years agoMatt z5b - Greenhouse 10a
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
4 years agoMatt z5b - Greenhouse 10a
4 years agosunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
4 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
4 years agoJan
4 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
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