Glad you brought that up about the cursive. Good point! I've been looking for a place to post the following and this will solve some of your problems. For seed packs, go to an office supply store and buy a box of coin envelopes. It will save you a lot of time making them or using baggies and then having to cut up paper to make note tags. At the top of it write the year the seeds were harvested and then the name, height, color, annual or perennial. And a notation if it is a big self seeder. Some folks dont want fast spreaders. I prepare some in advance by pouring them out of my full coin envelope. On it I'll write "KEEP" if that is the only one I'll have left as to save some for me to plant. These boxes of envys are not cheap since it is 300-500 in a box. If you have another gardening friend just ask if they would like to split the price of a box with you. Then, use the large box they come in to file them as you like. You can also make tabs between sections of packets. I have not done all of this yet but ideas are popping up as I write. Ad you own ideas to suit your needs. And good luck gardening. I hope I've helped out. HP in Virginia

Hello again, and thank you all for following up. alexr, susan and mark: The broiler problem may actually be our fault. We had been placing our steaks too far, perhaps 4-5 inches from the broiler. Also, I can see if you need it to be that close, it is probably critical that the area of your food isn't larger than the broiler size, which would account for any uneven broiling. Another thing that throws me off is that we are supposed to keep the door closed when grilling--if the food is that close, don't you have to check it more frequently to make sure nothing chars? I haven't had a chance to test it, but will try to do so this weekend. I may be back Monday! alexr, I just went over some notes from a posting I made in February, and you told me how to adjust the burners to get a lower flame. I haven't been able to do that because I couldn't get the knob off and I was afraid I might damage it if I tried to pry it off. I just tried pulling off ALL the knobs and was successful with 2 so far. I will be more persistent with the rest. Susan, I read your post re your BS problems, and I feel bad for you, but at least you finally got them to admit there is a problem. My case, so far, is "user error" until I can determine I'm NOT doing something wrong. I think most of these issues didn't have to become issues if BlueStar invested in a technical writer to write a proper instruction manual! Does anybody know if there is any third party documentation? Not to beg the question, but does anyone have problems with uneven grilling in the 12 inch grill, or do yours work well?

Hi there Dadoe, I’m back again for your wisdom, I still have the Iwl16 machine and it’s been working great since you last helped me out, the drain pump went out on it in February 2019 and I replaced it, however now whenever it runs out of water but the machine still has it engaged it’s making a screaching sound that’s pretty noticeable even with the laundry room doors closed. Pump sounds fine as long as it actually has water to pump out or recirculate...once it gets to the rinse and spin phases where the pump is engaged but not having much water to pump is where the problem comes in...I have tried another brand new pump and it’s actually worse than the one I installed a year ago, I even tried a new motor controller board only to have the same issue. Am I missing something or are they just really making crappy quality pumps now?? The machine works fine, just noisy now and it’s definitely the drain pump but I’m not gonna keep purchasing drain pumps til I get a good one...any advice would be appreciated

Yes, this does sound like the circuit and/or switches are miswired. One quick check you can make is to look at the switch toggles. Do either or both of them say "on" and "off" on the moveable switch levers? If so, that's most likely your problem: you have a two-way instead of a three-way switch. (Three-ways don't have "on" and "off" in raised letters, but are smooth instead.) Expanding a bit on what joed's requesting, could you take off the switchplates (covers) and look at the wiring to the switches? Just to be safe, turn off the circuit breaker for that lighting circuit first. Here's what you'll be looking for: Because I'm guessing that this is relatively new wiring, each of the switches should have a total of four terminal screws. One, which usually has a green tint to it, should be connected to a bare (or green) ground wire. That leaves three posts for the current carrying wires. If there are only two wires connected (not counting the ground), that's a problem because properly wired three-ways will have three current carrying conductors attached. Of those three current carrying terminal posts, one is called the "common" and it is usually tinted differently (e.g., black) than the other two (e.g., brass or silver). Also, the common is usually at the other end of the switch from the other two (the "travellers"). Once you determine which is the common, can you make us a "map" something like the following: Switch #1: Black wire on common, black and red wires on the two travellers. Switch #2: White wire on common, black and red wires on the travellers. I'm not suggesting this is the only correct pattern--it's not--but it's an example of the information that will help figure this out. Also helpful would be documentation of what happens with the switches in various combinations. Here's an example of what I mean: Switch #1 up, switch #2 up: lights on Switch #1 up, switch #2 down: lights off Switch #1 down, switch #2 up: lights off Switch #1 down, switch #2 down, lights on Again, I'm not suggesting right or wrong answers, just the format.