Dee also puts forward another contender that would be better than Faber or Broan. I would recommend an insert 34" Width x 22" depth with a 1200 cfm internal blower in your case, if you want to you can go 40" wide. what I tell my customers is. Imagine an upturned kitchen sink, I am selling you the plug hole and you are building the bowl. Whatever goes in that bowl will go into the plug hole for sure. By doing this you also crate a holding area for the times when you get a big pluff of smoke and grease. The holding area is created by fitting the insert 6" up into the wood frame, again imagine an upturned sink. MOST and not all but most cabinet makers make the cabinetry the same size as the insert resulting in a lack of depth and flush with the base of the wooden structure. As for height from the range top, first priority is comfort your husband, he must feel comfortable when he is cooking or its no fun for him. Second the higher the bottom of the wooden structure from the range top the wider the smoke and grease will be when it gets to the insert, so your husband does not need 6" clearance give him 2". Third check your local code for the distance they want a flammable structure from the range top.

While we wait for Terrace1919 to respond, I can relate that I have a Wolf Pro Island Hood with their (Broan/Nutone) 1500 CFM (rated) blower on the roof. Duct length from hood to blower is in the 15 - 20 foot range (never measured it). A section of the 10-inch duct incorporates a Fantech silencer. At full power (with MUA path, baffle and other parts pressure losses) flow rate is likely to be around 900 CFM actual through the 10 sq. ft. of hood aperture. One can talk normally around and across the space under the hood. There is noise, mostly baffle hiss due to turbulence, but it is not annoyingly loud for cooking. My blower has some rumble that a re-balancing could help, I suspect. Some of my ducting wears automotive damping material to suppress any conduction of blower noise along the steel duct. This hood fully captures the cooking plume from my 3500W induction wok located under the far end of the hood. Hood height above the counter is about 35 inches. Blower control is via a conventional (at the time) triac/diac circuit above the middle baffle area on the controls side. If you replace the internal blower with an external blower, it would be safest, without evaluating the potential power capability of the existing motor control circuit, to use the same power rating external blower. Otherwise, uprating the embedded blower controller is another possibility, if Wolf is willing or you are an electronics experimentalist. kas

I have no data or experience with any of these, but I have to speculate that a $350 power pack and a 1200 external blower are very likely not equal in flow rate, and that an external blower that had the same performance as the $350 power pack would be considerably less money. I have no idea what exactly a warranty is covering on a liner, weld failure? I see no functional reason why any quality external blower shouldn't be used with a liner given some match between the blower interface and the duct from the liner. I would expect that Broan/NuTone would sell something compatible. But given your plea, I suggest contacting Trevor. With respect to the quote: "Either an interior, in-line or remote blower may be used with Prestige hood liners and power pack inserts. Other blowers CANNOT be substituted." I am having a hard time thinking up an "other" blower option that is not one of "interior, in-line or remote." kas

Hood system requirements follow from the characteristics of cooking plumes, mainly their diameter, divergence as they rise, volumetric flow rate, and their velocity. The requirements somewhat vary with the design of the hood -- particularly the volume under the baffles that I will call the reservoir -- with horizontal baffle residential hoods representing one end of the configuration spectrum, and high pitched baffles within a commercial hood representing the other end. Pitched baffles seen in some residential hoods, such as Wolf Pro hoods, are an intermediate case that is closer to the horizontal configuration than the high commercial configuration. We start with the hood entry area. It should be large enough to encompass any plume from any burner and pan. Generally, a hood width of 6 inches beyond the range width is considered adequate for residential cooking. More refinement can be made from plume types and their divergence angles from the locus of potential pan areas, but for this message these details will be left unstated. So we get 48 + 6 inches as a desired width. Front to back depth should be a deep as available from residential units, although one can get custom/bespoke designs of almost any configuration. Assume that the hood aperture is 24 inches within a 27-inch hood (see Wolf Pro hood details). This hood, then, has an entry aperture area of 4.5 x 2 = 9 square feet and should be adequate up to 36 inches above the pans. (Note that I am working with a wall hood here and not an insert into a cabinet like structure. What is available for such applications may not meet what is desirable in hood entry aperture sizing.) We need the airflow to be sufficient to deal with entraining the plumes into the baffle flow. Worst case, this could be calculated from potential plume sizes and velocities, but given that residential hoods with low reservoir volumes cannot average plumes across the entire baffle space, some approximations are needed to achieve adequacy. The one I like that is derived, in a sense, from the Greenheck method (https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf) is to assume that the baffle gap area is half the aperture area, and that the effective plume velocity can be 3 ft/s (peaks to 1.2 m/s have been observed). This leads to a need for 180 ft/min in the baffle gaps, or 90 ft/min across the aperture. No one here building to that standard has yet complained about inadequate flow, so we will go with 90 ft/min. 90 ft/min x 9 sq. ft. is 810 CFM. That is the desired actual flow rate at full blower power. Blowers are rated for free air (zero static pressure) performance, and this will need to be about 1.5 times the requirement to make up for (at a minimum) baffle pressure loss. In this case, the result is a 1200 CFM blower. Poor MUA pressure balance may lead to a higher requirement. An internal blower will not be quiet at this level. An external blower just outside the mounting wall will be barely quieter, unless an even more powerful motor is used at reduced power. Best quieting with standard residential components is a roof blower with a large enough duct and an intermediate silencer. Note that internal blowers are limited by the space available, while external blowers can grow larger, but compatibility with hood controls could be an issue. Roof vs. in-line in the attic is a matter of many small details I don't have time to address. In common residential applications the level of grease deposit on ducting and external motor parts is relatively low, and what grease there is tends to rancidify and turn to varnish. If grease is deposited on a roof, UV sunlight will likely decompose it. A shaded wall mount might show grease on the wall that isn't decomposed, and which will need occasional cleaning. Commercial applications require grease capture at the blower, in addition to at the baffles. In general, I would expect that you would only need to clean the hood baffle assemblies (usually in a dishwasher) and wipe out the hood interior. I can't price different configurations. I use a roof blower. MUA in households is considerably more painful to deal with than in commercial spaces. There is the issue of yet more ducting, location of diffuser(s) to supply the air, possible additional blower and control system, filtering, and heating. If you search here on 'MUA" and 'kaseki' you should find a lot of messages dealing with different aspects of this that you can generalize from, or, if you find an impediment, ask about a specific issue. There are aspects of this quest that I can't answer for you. In particular, you will be working in a trade space that includes cost and aesthetics. High performance and good looks will not be compatible with low cost. You have to find the balance that best fits your circumstances.