Seeking more tree advice
4 years ago
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Proud new owner of a pair of Cherry Trees, Seeking advice.
Comments (4)I know this is hard but cut back 1/3 of all limbs and the leader if it is not vase shaped. No fertilizer for a month and then only lightly. Water but do it often and only to dampen the soil. I haven't had a tree fail when planted within a few days of recieving them in april. Ones I have healed in and planted in late june early july I seem to have about a 5- 10% fail rate. I don't whine to ANC because I disturbed the roots 2 times. Sometimes the real job and the honey do list gets in the way of your fun. Do you understand that hosta, lilys, roses, and peonies are more important then apples , peaches and grapes. She only wants the sod removed, the soil amended and the edging put in so she can plant for show to her garden club. good luck every one and smile. Sometimes when the garden club comes I take them down to taste a ripe readhaven off the tree. Then I take down orders for next year.I should be adding a margin on the sale but (that's my garden club). when the grand kids come down this weekend let her put her roses against my mont cherrys. I bet hey have red lips and shirts....See MoreSeeking yet more paint advice!
Comments (27)The trim has everything to do with it. White Dove is not a stark white; it's in fact a soft white. But it IS white. I have it on all of my trim. The room above reversed the usual way of painting and painted the trim what most would use to paint the walls, and the walls what most would use to paint the trim. This was along the lines of my suggesting you paint the ceiling a light tan or cream and the walls a creamy white. If you painted your walls white, I think you'd have to paint the trim a deeper color, like in the pic above. This was how they did it in Colonial days: painted the woodwork and kept the walls white. I think, though, that if you were to paint your walls white, you'd have to paint your ceiling as well, since you have no crown molding....See MoreBack again seeking more advice (pics)
Comments (6)Although you didn't ask for this advice, I have to second Jenny "with no taste's" comments. I think the wall color detracts from the clean contrasts in your slipcovers. The picture posted by Jenny seems to have a cream wall behind a blue/white chair, but it doesn't look like the wall was painted with that chair in mind. If this were my room I'd paint the walls white. The obvious accent color is yellow but there is no reason you couldn't choose something out of one of the prints instead. I think your picture mats are neutral and would probably look fine with any new wall color. But you certainly want to know which wall color you are using before doing anything with the mirror or lamps. I think I might like the two lamps with the white shades, but I can't see them because they are too low. The round table is too low but since the legs are not really visible, can you put something under them to bring the table up a few inches? Once you are committed to your table heights, you can raise and lower your current lamps using stacks of books, till you see what height lamp works best. Of the new lamps you are considering, I'd definitely stick with the clear glass. The clear glass will add to the airy, clean, crisp look and it will help reflect light....See Moreseeking more kitchen layout advice
Comments (24)The problem to solve is to allow people to be able to enter at any time, not just when other aren't seated. A person takes up about 2 feet from the counter edge. The door itself needs some amount of room to swing. If you have a 3 foot door and seating directly in front and in the direction the door swings, you'd need about 5.5 feet (a little allowance in case a larger person is seated or someone sits back further) to the edge of the counter. If you have a 4 foot door as two 2-foot french doors, you'd need 4.5 feet. If the swings out into the porch, the door can be any size and the aisle can be 4 feet. There are two possibles - don't use a section right in front of the door for seating, instead use part of the side and all of the end on the dining side. The other way is to look at whether shortening the island would allow a dedicated to seating block to be added on the dining room side - 30-36" wide by however long you can make it. 36" length is seating for three, 48" length is seating for 4 and 60" length is seating for 5. If you'd rather narrow the island at a future time, plan on doing two counter materials on the island - say 2 feet of wood and 2 feet of rock (plus overhangs). When the time comes cut the wood so the depth of that side becomes 12-14". If you have some support on the ends or then add corbels, it'll work well. So if you start out with a 4 foot wide island and then move the door to a three foot wide inswing door, you can get the aisle to be five feet wide and yell fore! You could use a pair of two foot doors and a 42" wide island. If you use laminate on the island, you don't need to care about using multiple materials - laminate is pretty inexpensive. You either get a new island top or refurbish your existing one but you aren't losing more than a few hundred bucks at most - not the big price tags that come from attempting to re-cut a rock counter. That can be done but... Most fabricators do not want to touch any other fabricators work cause they don't know how it was done. So you'll pay premium price for them to come to your house, uninstall the counter, haul it back to their shop, re-cut it, haul the new counter back and re-install it. Summarized - plan now about your counters and flooring under the current and revised seating areas. I hope this is English and that it helps- I'm not sure....See More- 4 years ago
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