I make sure to use water that has sat out overnight to water my plants. Does that not make a difference? Or not enough of a difference? You already learned that the crystalline structures on the leaves of your plant is composed of dissolved solids (sugar and mineral salts) left behind as the water in the exudate associated with the guttation (primarily driven by over-watering) evaporates. If you allow your water to rest overnight in an open pan, some of the water in the pan evaporates, but ALL of the dissolved solids in the water are left behind, So technically, the concentration of dissolved solids in the water (which includes fluoride, and chloramine, used now to chlorinate most tapwater) would be slightly higher than water straight from the tap. The pH of water straight from the tap is also slightly lower than water that has rested for a period of time, due to dissolved CO2 gassing off. Also yes, can you point me in the direction of drain hole tutorials?? I'm guessing you mean how to drill the holes? This should help: Drilling holes in pots The 2 types of drill bits most appropriate for drilling holes in pots are a diamond core drill for the highly vitrified (hard material - baked at very high temps - glass, ceramic, ......) pots, and a drill with several names for drilling clay pots fired at low temps, such as terra cotta. That (carbide) drill is called a 3-point drill, spear point drill, or a spade drill, seen here: You only need 1 - in 1/2 or 3/8" size. For the hard stuff, diamond core drills are best, though the 3 point drill will drill the hard stuff, too. Diamond core drills: You can buy either type at big box stores. They're not that expensive, and they last a long time if you take care of them. They are best used with a steady stream of coolant from a squeeze bottle (contact lens solution bottles work great for this) or with the work surface barely submerged. IE, put the pot upside down in a tub and fill the tub with water until it just covers the work surface. If you use a spritzer or squirt bottle, a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is an excellent coolant, and soapy water is better than plain water but not as good as the antifreeze mix. The coolant keeps the tool from over-heating, and in doing so, increases the life of the tool substantially - like triple or quadruple the number of holes you can drill. Regular masonry bits are "ok" for drilling terra cotta or cement (you can make them work), but inappropriate for anything harder. The right tool makes everything easier. And lastly, should I be flushing all my plants (pothos, croton, aloe, snake plant...) when I water? One way or another - YES, absolutely. Ideally, your choice of soil should allow you to water to beyond the point of saturation, so you're flushing the soil as you water. If you can't do that w/o worry that the soil will remain soggy for a prolonged period, limiting root function, or worse, wrecking root health it would be best to consider learning how to amend the soil you're using or make a soil that allows you to flush the soil regularly. There are also a few very simple work-arounds that will allow you to use a soil that would otherwise be inappropriate. For example - if you're using a soil too water-retentive for a plant's well-being, and you need to flush it - you can flush thoroughly over a sink or tub or outdoors. When the pot stops draining, hold it in your hand(s) and move it up and down. You'll note that on the reversal from downward to upward motion, Newton's First Law of Motion takes over and some of the excess water in the pot exits through the drain hole. As the amount of water diminishes, more can be forced from the soil by reversing directions more forcibly. As long as your pot is of a manageable size, this simple trick is invaluable for anyone using an excessively water-retentive soil. If the pot is too large, you can use a wick to drain excess water, or even tipping the pot at a 45* angle to drain makes a very significant difference in how much excess water a medium can hold. Compare B with A to see how much excess water the simple act of tipping the pot forces from the pot. E shows what a wick, used correctly for best benefit, can achieve. D shows one way of using ballast to reduce excess water. Even when using extremely water retentive soils, ballast can reduce the amount of excess water a soil can hold to less than 5% of what it would hold w/o use of ballast. Al

The good news is that this is most likely a warm climate rose, so you live in the perfect place for it. The bad news is that ROSES ARE NOT HOUSE PLANTS, period. However, the bad news is easy to solve! Put it outside in filtered sun immediately!. The air in our homes is WAY too dry for roses, they don't get enough light, and many other problems. It will die if you leave it indoors. After it is outside in filtered light (it should remain outdoors forever), wait a couple of weeks so that it can get used to being outside, and used to getting some light. Then you can move it into full sun. DO NOT feed it, do not spray it with anything - just make sure it gets enough water. Right now it is trying to grow roots. Oh, I just had a thought - is it in a plastic pot? I have had baby roses die in plastic pots in full sun in the hot summer simply because the pot got too hot and they literally cooked. If that is a plastic pot, I would leave the rose in filtered light for a bit longer, and then get a much much bigger clay pot and put it in that. Then you could put it into full sun. Then just leave it alone for 1-2 months. When it recuperates and starts growing, you can feed it according to the instructions. Nip off any flower buds you see while it is still tiny - it will grow better faster without having to support flowers. When it gets maybe three times as big as it is now, I would plant it in the ground (in full sun) - sounds as if you have other roses outside, and know how to do that. Good luck! When it blooms please please post pictures of it on here, and we can try and figure out "who" it is. Jackie

Roses and succulents are not compatible in a pot together. Roses need more water and a different soil. Your problem could be soil. The pot looks like one that has a drain hole, does it? Just guessing here--Probably your best bet is to remove it from the pot, dump all the top dressing and soil, repot in commercial cactus and succulent mix combined 50/50 with perlite or pumice from your nursery. Don't water for several days. Keep in shade until it recovers. Personally, I don't like top dressing like that because it makes the soil retain water longer. Succulents keep water in their stems and leaves, so they don't like "wet feet."

Even small leaves could propagate - depends if they are healthy, and what plant they are from. Some just won't grow, but most do. Some ppl propagated succulents even from small leaves on flower stalk - I never tried. Some succulents will drop leaves very easily, others are more 'resistant'. It is not easy to judge how hard or not did you brush it. If stressed from too much water, leaves could fall off easily. But there could be other reasons. I would definitely consider water-retention of your potting soil: it may be too water-retaining. What I see is lots of residue from too much watering of the soil that may contain lots of peat: just inside of the pot. I could be wrong...but would use fast draining mix, and check how dry or wet is the soil deep down in the pot before watering. Depending on potting mix and temperatures, plant could e watered every few days, or much less frequently. And, it may be good idea to use more mix when potting succulents, so they 'sit' higher in the pot.