Blum Aventos HF again: Yes, your cabinets are a little higher on the wall -- and so are mine!! The placement of the Blum Aventos HF spring mechanism is what I was trying to draw your attention to. Inside each cabinet, these Aventos HF hinges are not screwed at the "correct" height as per Blum instructions. I know because I have cabinets with these, and I called Blum several times to ask about changing the height in order to get a different angle when the fronts were opened. No go, according to the Blum people I spoke to. But, I wasn't satisfied that they had ever tested it out any other way, or asked about it anywhere. so it is good to see that yours work well. To stop the cabinet fronts from going too high and hitting the ceiling, Blum sells "angle stops". I got them. They are great. I'll bet your hardware installer doesn't read instructions, take courses, watch videos or ask questions. The two points I mentioned above are two clues, but it doesn't mean I'm certain. Also one more: in your photos I saw some of the unweighted spring arms left in a dangerous position, specifically forbidden in the piece of paper that Blum includes in every box of Aventos parts. No harm done in pointing this out now, I hope. Here is a sentence from one of my emails to the Blum people I dealt with: "Accessories Box #10 has Opening Angle stop 104 degrees part no. 20F7051. Do these come in pairs?" Buy them. It is worth it to have the spring automatically come to a stop right under the ceiling. If you re-install the Aventos lower down on the cabinet side, the spring arms become shorter and this makes the geometry of the two panels totally different when opened. By the way, do you know if you got the spring that is lightest, mid-range, or heaviest? There is a lot of overlap, so it's not critical. Hth!! ---- I mentioned I have the same countertop. Perhaps you might want to look at my backsplash. For now, look on the web for "Random White Hirsch Murano glass tiles". .

I looked into these earlier and found this post on gardenweb. I will copy the solution and link the post Hope this helps: Posted by siena_s_dad (My Page) on Wed, Dec 5, 07 at 14:52 Just want to report back the results of my experiment. Taking oruboris's advice, I consulted my photograher friend. He picked out the yellow Rosco lighting gel for me. It is a 24''x24'' thin square piece of film at a cost of $6.95 each. The staff at the Palo Alto photograhy store also agreed that yellow gel was the best to neutralize blue light. I went with it since our bathroom is painted yellow. There are many Rosco series. I just pick up whatever they have in store. You can also order online. I had the contractors cut them and place them right over the diffuser. Lo and behold, the light coming down the celing warmed up instantly. There is about a 15% loss in the brightness. But the blue is gone and the tone is softer and warmer. Wife is happy. So $14 and this board do the job of what would have been a $1,500 replacment. Thank you for helping, guys. Here is a link that might be useful: blue light from sun tunnel

We put one in our bathroom downstairs. Had it for maybe 4 or 5 years now. Works great, it's mounted inside the shower which is white tile, so nice sunny environment there. It lites up the whole bathroom well, even at dawn and dusk, which kinda surprised me. Saves a lotta electricity as the florescent lites took up about 80 watts and they were on/off numerous times per day. We bought the one with the light fixture in it for night use, I installed a 13 watt florescent in it and it is plenty of light for the bathroom at night. I guess you get the idea, I'm very happy with it! We have 2 more bathrooms upstairs, our master which has windows, and a guest that does not, even thou this bathroom does have an outside wall, I'm still leaning towards another Sola Tube for this bathroom, as the bathroom is just not used enough for the expense of adding a window, and the Sola tube will lite it up real good. HTH's! Gary

JK, do you have a vaulted ceiling in this bathroom, so that your ceiling is right near the roof, like in Beth's photo? (Beth, I love your plant wall!) Or is yours more an 8 or 9 ft ceiling , with the roof several feet higher? If it is, there will be a well - a walled tunnel like in Jolene's comment from June 24 - and you won't be seeing much out of the skylight anyway. We added a skylight to our dark kitchen when we had it remodeled in 2010, and it was the best choice we made in the whole remodel. The well was made very big at the bottom so that the light spreads out into the room. I would guess that the skylight is 3 to 4 feet higher than the ceiling, in my case. In no way have I ever looked up at the sky to see the weather or for any other reason. There really is nothing you can see through the skylight.