Best sound-deadening materials (hopefully less toxic)?
4 years ago
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- 4 years ago
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Anyone up on the toxicity issues of copper on earthworms?
Comments (15)Thanks for the responses. Let me clarify a bit on why I have had to use copper. I am growing vinafera grapes. The number of people successfully growing vinafera grapes organically in the entire mid-atlantic region is, to my current knowledge, one -- myself. (Well I am sure there are a few more but it must be very uncommon). There are a few people growing vinafera organically in NY and other somewhat less disease-ridden places. Anyway even if my soil were the best in the world there is no way to grow vinafera here without a significant spray regimen. My current experiment is to spray copper plus Surround plus Nufilm on the undersides of the leaves; the Surround seems to physically interfere with the downy in some way which tends to start on the bottoms of the leaves, and since it is on the underside and plastered on with nufim, the spray stays there a long time since the rain can't get to it. I am hoping that I can double or more the length of time that a spray lasts with this technique. Maybe I can even cut back on the copper strength. I tried milk, bicarb, sulphur, and others with no luck at all. They work fine on powdery but downy gets into the leaf tissue itself and these sprays just don't work. I am also experimenting with different varieties, I have several dozen. I have found a couple vinafera that seem to have much better disease resistance. My favorite so far is an obscure Portuguese variety called Tinta Pinheira which is known in Portugal for its resistance to diseases. I was out looking last night and it is completely clean of diseases now. I also have many hybrids, but none of the red hybrids make a good wine as far as I am concerned. Well they make a fine wine but its just not the kind of wine I like to drink. The white hybrids on the other hand make some very good wines and all my white wine grapes are hybrids. This whole effort is still in the experimental phases, I have already gotten rid of a half a dozen varieties that seemed to be too disease-prone and I will probably be getting rid of several more. Anyway with regard to copper it sounds like most people here are not using it at all - ? Scott...See Moresound proof or sound deadening
Comments (9)If you do a search, you'll find that there have been several threads on this topic recently. In terms of what it is called, you want to provide sound attenuation. You would never "sound proof" your house. It would be ridiculously expensive (if you could even manage it), and it would be very uncomfortable. I am an audiologist (although I no longer practice), and I find that being in a "real" sound proof room is a very weird feeling. Almost suffocating... So, what you would be looking for is a product that would help to decrease the transmission of sound between rooms. You need to determine what dB level of noise transmission would be acceptable to you and from there you can begin to plan the products and strategies to make it happen. You can work with an acoustical engineer to come up with the correct formulas, but you will need to take into account multiple factors, including but not limited to flooring materials, ceiling heights, room sizes, etc. Most homeowners never go into that level of detail...it certainly does not sound from your posting that you would very much attenuation. One very easy fix is to use carpet upstairs rather than a hardwood...much quieter....See MoreWhat material to sound proof a room
Comments (13)brutuses First you need to identify what type of sounds you are trying to deaden - and what the purpose of the room is ie - Recording Studio, Woodworking shop, home theatre etc.. Differing types of sounds require different types of materials/applications - i.e. foot fall in an upstairs is one of the more difficult to deaden vs. voices Not a pro here by any stretch but I did research this very issue during our remodel when we lost a plaster ceiling in the living room which is the largest room in the house. Also, we finished 1/2 the basement which has been spec'd for future home theatre use. Bro in law is a master carpenter & he re-built many of the recording studios for SONY (I believe they are now defunct fr. recording) In that application - what works best is layers of sheetrock, in various thickness, staggering seams additionally inside the wall insulation - Mineral Wool, brand name Roxul - is a product that has been used for yrs as a firestopping insulation - fairly recently avail in Bat form (just like the pink stuff) easy to apply Mass loaded vinyl - is a 1/8" thick rolled vinyl -like the flooring and is good for floor application. It's heavy! - I had my carpenter use it on the ceiling of our basement, after applying Roxul btwn the joists - I thought he might walk off the job! heavy & difficult to use overhead - after the MLV he had to put up a grid & apply acoustical ceiling tile - which really is homosote (product mentioned above) - Homosote is another good choice - but if cat potty area is an issue this would not be adviseable as it will wick in moisture - Here's our application LR ceiling - J- channel w/acoustical tape applied to joists- This step is critical as sheetrock direct to joists will allow/act as a sound traveler if you will, Roxul btwn the joists, 5/8" sheet rock applied to J-channel. There are other methods, green glues, acoustical sheetrock etc - We choose this route - because it is cost effective, products were readily available and easy to apply. IT has worked remarkably well Basement - as stated - Roxul, MLV, acoustical tile, Roxul is also on an interior wall btwn utility side of basement & finished side. - A thick Exterior door is installed btwn utility/finished side - with rubber gasket around bottom - Hope this has helped - I can't stress enough about determining 1st what you are trying to deaden - In a garage you will have doors, windows, ? ceiling or is it exposed rafters - so if you just do a little -it may be for naught as sound has too many other routes to travel -too many leaks - 1/2" sheetrocked homes are an acoustical nightmare - Here is a sight that is extremely helpful - I purchased some products from them for our projects folks there will take the time to help find right product for your application http://www.soundproofing.org/ This may help too http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33362&highlight=soundproofing Good luck!...See MoreHow to deaden sound of water sloshing through pipes?
Comments (10)Stopping sound transfer. 1. - some density 2. - complete air block More complete explanation: 1. At least one layer of dense material. 2. At least one layer of an air block, which could be the above, dense material, or could be foam. Goal is no air flow. So do not let outlets cut into your air block; you have to 100% seal all five sides of the box. Spray Foam is excellent for this. Do not use fiberglas insulation in the wall cavities for this project as it does not meet either criterion #1 or #2. Neither one. It can be used as a minor padding, if you happen to have a ton of it lying around waiting to be used somewhere. Sheets of the cheapest open cell foam are better however. Density: Double layers of 5/8" fire code drywall which is denser and heavier in its body than 1/2" drywall, will be more effective than double layers of 1/2". Density: Buying and installing cast iron for the stack makes sense here. All plumbers will confirm that it makes much much less noise than plastic stacks when water flows down it. Sealing plastic pipes with foam is a workaround, not what I'd call a solution compared to buying cast iron. If you do not put any padding in the wall cavity, you run the risk of letting the wall cavity reverberate like a drum under certain frequencies which cannot be predicted in advance. You may hear higher pitched sounds but not rumbling, for example. So prudence dictates adding some foam in there too. HTH -david...See More- 4 years ago
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