Spots on the plant with leaves that have blackened margins usually indicates bacterial speck. Or crispy margins could be drought stress, overwatering stress, too much fertilizer, etc. But whether it's septoria or speck, the response should be the same, and it's what you're doing. Copper is a good option because it helps with both bacterial and fungal issues. Neither disease will be cured once it sets in, but the pruning and spraying can slow down the disease and keep your plants alive and producing for the rest of the season. Also, there may be other reasons for your blossom drop issues. What "tomato food" are you using, and how much are you giving? Your plants do look a little pale, although that could just be a photography issue. And what is your location? How have the weather conditions been for you lately?

I see several issues together, and think Mary hit the nail right on the head. It looks like a combination of fungal and bacterial diseases, many of which are hard to distinguish easily from one another. Regardless of exactly which bacterial or fungal diseases your plants have, the treatment is the same. Remove all the damaged foliage. This is very important because if you leave the foliage, the diseases will continue to move upward from limb to limb until the entire plant is affected. Bag up and throw away the foliage and do not compost it unless your compost pile is a hot pile that will destroy the microorganisms. Even so, if composting, immediately put something else on top of the tomato foliage you've removed, or dig into the center of the pile and bury it there, so that diseases doesn't keep propagating from the foliage you removed. The next step is to spray the plants thoroughly, hitting the top and bottom of every leaf, all the branches and stems and all the fruit, with the fungicide of your choice. If you are purely organic you could use Serenade or Copper, or use both, alternating their use every 7-10 days as the product labels advise. If you don't mind using a synthetic, use Chlorothalonil (aka Daconil). While I am mostly organic, I'd probably use Daconil first if this were my garden and then the next time I sprayed, I'd use copper. Understand that the fungicides available to home gardeners are not systemic and do not kill the disease microorganisms. What they do is coat the plant so that new disease microorganisms cannot spread any further on the plant. If you miss a leaf while spraying, that leaf is likely to become diseased, so take your time and coat all the foliage with the fungicide. All you'll be doing from this point forward is spraying to keep the diseases from spreading. It is possible, though, to keep the plant relatively healthy, alive and producing for the rest of the season. If the ground beneath and around the plants is not mulched, it should be. These diseases are present in the in the soil and easily go airborne and spread, so every time it rains, soil splash can carry the diseases up onto your plant and from there, the diseases climb progressively upward. A good, thick layer of mulch helps slow down how much soil splash spreads these sorts of infections. And, in case you're thinking the long-term solution is to replace your soil, that's not a good option as these diseases affect all soils worldwide so you'd be wasting your time and money. Simply work to add more organic matter to the soil annually to improve soil health. Tomato plants are susceptible to many, many different kinds of bacterial, fungal and viral diseases and learning to deal with these diseases is just a part of being a gardener. You can do this. You can keep your plants well enough to produce throughout the rest of the season. It is frustrating but is just part of the gardening life. Good luck, Dawn

They do look extremely dry, but they don't look that bad to me. The thing that jumps out at me is that you have had this problem for two years running, yet the first year they grew well. I would blame the potting mix. Could it be that you stored it wet and it allowed some "nasties" to take hold, or did you buy it new, two years ago? Are the pots new, or did you wash out thoroughly with soap and water plus a little bleach? Diseases can lurk in unwashed pots. It might be a good idea to buy some good potting mix and transplant them now if you are concerned that they will not thrive.

Hi again ediej, This morning I went out to inspect the garden, sure I would find thrips. Instead, and to my surprise, I found worms. You were right. I can't believe I missed them! Once I found the first one enjoying breakfast on some new growth, I found another, then another, and the count is endless. I had just sprayed BT the night before so I am happy to know that I don't need to buy yet another product. I've attached a photo. The worms are small, but not invisible to the naked eye. No bigger than half of my finger's width, so roughly 1cm. The others I found were this size and even smaller. Some are green and others palish-yellow in color. I've taken some pictures below. Interestingly, this one was actually inside the leaf itself. When I opened the leaf, he had a line of webbing as it hung from the leaf. Any idea what specific type of worm this may be? My question now is this: is it okay to use a foliar spray in addition to the BT, alternating days (about every 3 days a spray is used)? I ask because the leaves are fairly destroyed from these worms and the plant seems to be struggling at a foliar level. But I don't want to diminish the potency of the BT by spraying another foliar spray, even if it's on a different day. Also, is BT still the most effective spray for this type of worm? I assume it is as I read it's effective against all worms, but I want to make sure. The size (Even left a little black surprise, identical to the ones found on the plants. How generous.)