I can see that not only am I unable to spell Citation correctly, my wordsmithery, at least in terms of building a mental picture, stinks. You deciphered enough of the post to understand some of what I'm contemplating: - I am definitely leaving this stock in ground with three to four apricots bark grafted onto four of the larger branches. It's what I do or don't do with the remaining plethora of sturdy branches coming off of the 18" of trunk that led to my initial post. I hate to waste 'em when I've got so many scions to graft. I can always buy stone fruit rootstock (not Citation, however, which grows well here) but if I can better use what I have growing in my own orchard, why not? - I would like to air layer at least 10 remaining largish branches and eventually (probably next spring if the singular estimate I've located of 4-6 months to root a peach branch is accurate) plant them in my orchard. - Some of the largish branches I am going to air layer have smaller side branches that are large enough in their own right to graft to, so I'm wondering if I should try to get a head start by grafting scions to those side branches. There needs to be a canopy above the air layer to provide the nutrition and necessary chemistry to the site where you want roots, so I can't take too much canopy away while grafting scions, but I'm thinking I can sacrifice a small side branch (keep in mind that all 10 of the branches I'm considering air layering are from 6'- 8' tall with multiple side branches of their own) from the main air-layer branch without harming the potential for success...assuming, of course, that I can get the Citation to successfully send roots out, which was actually the poorly stated main thrust of my initial post - has anybody tried air layering a stone fruit or stone fruit rootstock? As for rooting cuttings from the Citation, everything I've read claims that it's nearly impossible to root stone fruit cuttings, so I really never considered that approach. If you know different, Ace, do tell.

Tomatofreak, I'm not sure I understand your question, but I'll try to answer it. Air-layering is the method of propagating a tree by making a "wound" on the limb, then wrap it with moist sphagnum moss which is then covered with plastic wrap. By keeping the moss moist, roots then develop which after a few months, the limb can be cut off below the roots and transplanting as a tree. Haname, if I try it I'll post my results here.

The rule of thumb should be that if the plant will be in situation where temperature may fdrop much below freezing (say to 25F) then it should be protected and more so if recently rooted with few tender roots. It is, therefore, advisable to bring these newly layered plants inside and place themeither in a lighted warm place for the winter and enjoy the growth (it is fun to watch even after many years of doing it); or store the plant after dormancy in a dark location where temperatures will stay under (approx) 40F and above freezing to avoid waking up from dormancy until spring. My input may be skewed a bit by my zone 5a location so wait until you hear from experienced hands.

Great series of photos to help others with air layering! Here in the south we sometimes "air layer" a big fig tree by just putting a brick on a low limb so it comes in contact with the soil. It will root there and you can cut the branch from the tree and leave it for several more weeks to grow the roots more before transplanting. I understand that commercial growers bend tall stalks like yours over slowly over the course of a week or two until the upper end of the branch comes in contact with the soil. They basically create a "Loch Ness Monster" shaped series of trees, all low for easy fig harvest, and this is supposed to maximize branching along the arched succession of trunks.