A foundation that has been repaired and is still buckling and having moisture infiltration problems is a very serious issue. Enough so that it's puzzling that after several offers and inspections from non specialists that the owner wouldn't get their own engineer's report. Perhaps they are afraid of what he'd find, and then they would be required to share that with any future buyers. So, they don't get the report, and put the onus on the buyer to do so. IF the sellers would pay for the report, I think I'd let the offer ride for now subject to that report. If they refuse, then you could pay for it yourself. ($500-$700 would be typical) but, you might be out that money if the report comes back with major work being needed and you decided to walk away. The problem is obviously more of a serious nature, and the fix will be in the thousands to fix it. How many thousands depends on the root cause and the ultimate fix. Completely regrading a lot with mature trees in existance on it that is adjacent to an easement not owned by you is fraught with unknown costs, including the potential for having to remove several trees and paying to connect to a storm drain instead of just doing some type of swale to direct water away from the house. I think that if you truly LOVE this house, that you should consider this part of the birth pangs of acquiring it. IF you can get it cheap enough. What "cheap enough" is, well, that will be up in the air until the engineer's report. Getting that report is probably worth it to you, simply because you've fallen in love. And, the other flip side to that is, if you provide the homeowners a copy of that engineer's report, they are required to disclose that information to any future buyers, so that would be the absolute FIRST thing I'd do with the report. Make them a copy, send it registered mail. They can't deny the facts now. And now, they are required to share them. This is going to sound nasty, but it "contaminates the field" for the sellers. They can't claim ignorance then. They either have to reduce the price to deal status for you or anyone else who might consider the property, or else they have to keep paying the mortgage on a house they've already moved from, or they have to let it go into foreclosure. Either way, you're the winner here, because you're the bird in the hand. If you push that angle, then you might end up with a substantial price reduction to make it worth repairing the foundation and drainage issues.

It is a Toll Brother's house. So I suppose one could call it a tract home. There's a lot of customization they allow for, in addition to all the different options they already have available. Not quite your no substitution Chinese menu. :-) And we were invited to basically go by the site daily if we wanted to monitor the construction. But I'm also new to this, so major things like missing outlets, or a standard outlet vs the outlet we paid for I catch. Other things I appreciate advice on knowing whether it is an issue, something not to worry about, etc. We don't own the land. We picked a lot, and one of the available floor plans, then made changes that we wanted to the floor plan, picked finishes, flooring, paint, electrical, etc. I don't think I have a photo of the master bathroom tile that shows them being offset slightly from the grid. And from a distance, I probably isn't noticeable. The face plates on the outlets I suppose depends on the persons eye. I noticed it, but it doesn't appear to be off enough that a bubble on a level would not be "centered". So as mentioned those items probably not worth dying on a hill over. Maybe not even worth mentioning. I do have pictures of the asymmetrical outlets. That one may be a hill worth dying on for my wife and me. The first photo would be the "East" wall or one on the left and the second photo is the "West" or right side. Someone else pointed out I should check the fuse box to see if we ended up with GFI circuit breakers, since as far as I remember, there is not a single GFI outlet in the house. As for the 3x3 grid of lights, without getting up there with a tape measure, not sure a picture would do any good. Could just be an optical illusion. Anyway, I appreciate everyone's input so far. Thank you.

catlady999weedmeisterPatricia Colwell Consulting From what I am reading online for Ontario code it is not required to vent it out however I can understand why we should do it now regardless. I have to talk to the builder about this. Please see page 3 in this document: https://www.carst.ca/resources/Documents/CGSB-149.11-2015CD-01.pdf

You're island space to me looks like ample space for prep Sorry but it's not. and I have the sides beside the oven. From what I've read the kitchen needs to work for the cook. For me I do a lot of my chopping next to the oven. I know its bizarre but I've been cooking that way for years. I clean my food and then bring it the cutting board by the oven and sometimes on the island if I am removing veggie skins into the garbage. First as I pointed out in your other thread, you don't have nearly enough space on either side of the sink to prep. At most you'll have 24". Not enough. I had to do it the same way by washing and then carrying it across to prep by my stove when I had my condo. Just because you've done it that way forever, doesn't make it the most efficient way to do something. Humans are very adaptable and can get used to anything. So much so that they don't think there's a better way. The reason in the other thread I highly recommended you add a prep sink next to your fridge is because doing it that way is so much easier and neater. How do I know? I have my prep sink next to my fridge. It's now so much more efficient way to cook. After you bring it to the cutting board, it means when you're done cutting, you have to then bring the cutting board across the aisle to dump the scraps. Wouldn't it be nicer and easier to have a place to dump (sink if you can have a disposal or trash next to sink if you can't) right next to where you prep and wash? Your pendants do what Im hoping will happen in my home. The two right pendants frame the hood. Not perfectly but I does frame it. It all depends where in the kitchen you stand. :) Im not sure what you mean by the term "die". Take a look at my upper cabinets on the right side. They go straight to the back wall and end. That's what I mean. No useless corner cabinet turning the corner. It is southern exposure But it is not direct southern exposure which is what we keep trying to explain to you. Once windows go in, the roof is on, and walls are up, your house will not look as bright and open as it does today. Additionally in my old condo we had direct west windows which meant every afternoon, especially in winter, the light came shining directly into my floor to ceiling sliders in my dining room. As I mentioned, my kitchen was only 11' from those windows and the light NEVER reached into the kitchen. South light is never as direct into a window as west light so even less will enter. That is why Alison and I are suggesting that you at least get rid of some of the uppers. If you make all the lowers drawers, you'll need less uppers anyway. cpartist I forgot to comment on the island. Overall the 8" would go into the nook area which would have made the space seem smaller than it is. We had to make it smaller or else the kitchen table and chair would be squished in there. I do understand but then you need to adjust elsewhere and the way to do that is to add a prep sink. My prep sink is only 18" but it works beautifully and then all I have to do is slide the food over to the cooktop. This would also allow for someone to help clean up as you prep, or to help rinse other stuff and bring it to you or to help teach kids to cook when they're old enough