help with old unfinished pine furniture
Laura
4 years ago
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HKO HKO
4 years agoThe KEEPING ROOM
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Using Shellac or Varnish on an Old Pine Floor
Comments (14)Hi, the Sealcoat is a very high quality shellac, as such it's perfectly suitable for woodwork, although I have two issues: 1) It's very pale and I happen to like a little color, so I always do two coats of the garnet shellac first (on my old-house woodwork) then use the clear sealcoat to build the gloss. 2) It's thin, so you have to use a good technique on vertical surfaces, like trim and doors to avoid runs, drips, and "curtains". If you're applying it in a warm/hot day, you need to work incredibly fast to keep the necessary "wet edge" or you will be rubbing out the last coat. Which brings me to my last point: If you rub out the last coat with 0000 steel wool and furniture wax, you will have a beautifully smooth finish that's very luxurious in feel and appearance. Casey...See MoreHelp: Treat Old PT Pine in Shade?
Comments (4)Why John, I thought CR was full of right-wing corporate lovin' nuts....Oh........that must have been back many years ago, ah, never-mind. Yesterday, I had opportunity to put the last of my Deckscapes stripper next to my Cabot's Wood Stripper on the Wolmancoated front deck. Guess which one did better? I also relearned which of the three Calbot Problem Solving chemicals is the one that gave me a nasty splash burn last year. Yep, the Brightner only made pair one of my rubber gloves sticky. The Midew and Dirt remover eventually put a hole in the other pair. But either of those were forgiving of accidental skin contact. A drop of the stripper, however, found a little exposed piece of ankle to keep me humble. Last year, the left side of my face got a nice splash of Calbot's Wood Stripper when I clumsily plopped the open container down on one of the steps I was stripping. A few weeks later after those layers of skin were fully replaced, that my left side shone with younger looking skin. Imagine, some other women actually pay a dermatologist for a peel! Fools. Thank goodness, today it is going to rain so I can justify a day off to rest and get some TWP ordered. I am pretty convinced that some of black stuff just ain't coming up.Even with straight bleach. I might order some of the MD80, or I might have to try out a planer. Always wanted to learn to use one of those. Thanks again for your help, Amy PS I am sorry my reply took so long, but Tuesday night, near thethe end of my Follow-Up post, I opened another tab to search for information non-oil based resins. A few minutes into the search, my computer Blue Screened on me. It was late at night and I just didn't have the energy or heart to start the post again....See Morechrome door handles on unfinished pine door?
Comments (26)Ajsmama: The door pics look really nice, with a smooth look. I learned from mostly Minwax literature and some forums that I'll need pre-stain treatment to solve the grain/absorption problem with woods like pine. Then I was just going to stain, and with a final coat of poly. I wasn't sure where sanding would come into the picture, probably just sanding off the dusts/specs that got trapped in the poly. I am not even sure what I can do with the raised grain with a water based paint/stain. The raised grain on the trim (after being painted with glossy latex paint) was just about impossible to sand down. I suppose it's not terrible being trims, but for doors that may just make enough difference to matter. I am using a 150 grit paper. I was thinking of using small foam rollers to apply the poly, if not the stain, for an even finish. However, that's just a thought in theory: in testing on sample drywall/wood blocks, smoothest finish with anything water based paint/finish could be achieved with those high density foam rollers, much more easily than brushes. Of course, these are the plans from someone who has no experience and learned from very scattered materials. I see here that there's a 4th step before coating with poly, to "use shellac as a sanding sealer". I'm not sure how that works, how to apply (I imagine coating and sanding, assuming shellac is a softer material than poly to sand down for a smoother finish?), or what exactly shellac is. I'm just that far off the curve here. :P Magnaverde: I just learned how oil based may achieve a superior finish. I asked around in the store and nobody could tell me the difference between oil and water based other than that water dries faster and doesn't smell. That made it an easy choice, as it is getting pretty cold here and opening window to vent VOC will be tough. Given that, I'm wondering now how difficult will it be to sand down the grain if I use water based stain/paint, to achieve a similar result to oil based paint/varnish/stain? Also if done properly (with pre-stain treament and all), is staining the pine with those grains acceptable, and in what color/finish? I suppose "naked door" with poly is nobody's cup of tea here. :) I'm not sure if a sketch of the room's dimensions will help visualizing the door better than a picture of one corner. Here it is: As you can see the apt has a very odd layout that cannot be salvaged easily. The door in question is the one to the top, next to the window/mock sofa. Most of the furniture are in maple/natural/pine color, as they were modular and simply carried over from the apartment rental days (new furniture may be in order). I haven't sketched up the trims though, but they are 4" base trims with 3.5" door casing, the largest I could get without going to the lumber yard for some much fancier versions. The trims and casing are painted in benjamin moore's "superwhite" in glossy finish. The front door (right hand side) at the end of the corridor is finished in white. The closet (center of the apt) has a bifold pine door that will be finished the same as the bathroom door. I'd appreciate any ideas/opinions with the door finish, again. I'm thankful of all the help here. This is so much more than I imagined I'd get in return to my question, which was originally thought to be as simple as a door knob finish. :) The question with the door had always been a bit nebulous to me, and it's just now began to clear up. Thanks guys....See MoreHelp me pick wood floors to match old french canadian furniture
Comments (3)presumably you don't want to *match* these pieces (which would make them disappear) but harmonize with them...? I'd go with a very light natural white oak or maple, which would be lighter than your current floors and thus let this furniture stand out. the other direction would be to go darker, like with a walnut-type stain. hickory is a *very* busy floor, so it would win any competition of attention centers......See Moreretired
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoLaura
4 years agoLaura
4 years agoFlo Mangan
4 years agosandk
4 years agoretired
4 years agoFlo Mangan
4 years agoretired
4 years agoFlo Mangan
4 years agoFlo Mangan
4 years agoretired
4 years agoklem1
4 years ago
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