Too shady for grass area... help!
Carrie Weingartz
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Grass to mix in with SA in shady areas?
Comments (18)Yes, TW, and THAT would be the difference between what can be purchased in a big box store, and what I have access to as a certified, licensed pesticide applicator. You are absolutely correct. Well then I apologizes to all as I was referring to professional use products. The link that was given in this thread is for aerial use from helicopters and airplanes, or commercial farming with tractor sprayer. All personal using and handling it has to wear PPE gear. But to be honest I did not realize they sold consumer grade in the liquid form. I truly thought it was only available to consumers in the granular forms. I can only guess the concentration level is so low that it is not considered hazardous to humans. Kind of hard to imagine because the professional grade stuff requires protective clothing, gloves, boots, and face shields to use and mix. Heck even the flaggers for crop dusting are required to wear PPE and respirators....See MorePlanting in Shady Area
Comments (10)Thanks Esther. We had thought about doing a fern garden, but most of the ferns I researched seemed to need really wet soil - it sounded like almost swampy - except for hayscent fern which can spread rapidly and Dryopteris marginalis which I couldn't find in the plant stores I went to. The Christmas Fern is supposedly "drought and shade tolerant" so I thought I'd try that, and add the Dryopteris and any others if I found them. Just looked again and found that the Lady Fern is also drought tolerant. Of course the hostas need water too, but I'm not sure I'd be as good about watering an all fern garden as I would about a part hosta garden... The Norway Maple is coming down this fall - my neighbor okayed it and we'll be doing some other major pruning then. I don't really mind if the large hostas stay medium sized, as long as they survive. Oh - the other one I have for the area is June - I know the color will be more muted in the shade. Do you think the medium to small hostas will not survive? Part of the problem is that I bought so many new hostas, and couldn't find places for them all. So I'm willing to put these in the ground to try them out. We will also be doing the front of the house in the next year or two, so if they aren't doing well on the hill I would move them. But if they definitely won't survive on the hill I'll find another place for them now. The idea about the newspaper in the hole is from Making the Most of Shade by Larry Hodgson. The problem is the hole is supposed to be 4 times the root spread and 1 1/2 times as deep - I'm lucky if I get it twice the size of the pot the plant is coming out of. I'm going out to see if I can even dig in the ground up there. Will also start getting the soil away from the plants. I'll do all the trees and shrubs. What about all the hostas, ferns, astilbes, etc?...See Moregrass for shady area
Comments (3)Dear Doucanoe, Thank you very much for your inquiry. Grass in the shade is not easy as you have found out (if it was, it would be in all the domed stadiums around the world, including the Metrodome.) That being said, the keys here are choosing the right grass and then maximizing the sunshine and air circulation. There are only a couple of choices for best shade grass in your area. If you have irrigation, the best choice hands down is supina bluegrass. It even spreads in the shade. However it must have moisture and it is expensive as it is not grown in the US. It can cost up $40/lb, and if the seeding rate is 2.0lbs /1000 ft2, you can get expensive in a hurry. If you go this way, one alternative to cut costs is to buy perennial ryegrass as a companion crop and mix at 90/10 P. ryegrass to Supina. The supina will spread throughout the lawn as the ryegrass dies and you will have a nice lawn soon. If you do not have water, then you need to choose fine fescues for the area. These do quite well in low light and persist in dry soils without much fertility needs. The trick with all shade grasses is establishment. This is where thinking Âmaximizing sunshine time comes into play. Circle mid-September on your calendar as this is the time when we want to establish the grass, just before the tree leaves turn and fall off the trees. We want to use the late fall for growth and then the sun from early spring to get all the growth we can before the tree leaves comes out and rob the sunshine from the grass again. We center our fertilizer schedules on these time periods as well. This way we are not fertilizing a grass in the shade when it needs sunshine with the fertilizer to complete its growth cycle. Finally, if there are areas where you can prune a few branches and improve sunlight, this is a worth effort. Also, all efforts to clear underbrush and allow air circulation will be rewarded by better turf as well. Sunshine and air movement are the keys. Again, thanks for the question and let me know if you have more. Respectfully Trey Rogers The Yard Doctor...See Moreneed grass for North Georgia clay and shady yard
Comments (3)How shady? For shade of 4 hours of sun a day or below, red fescue is the only grass that will manage, varying from not well at the most shady to quite well at the upper end of sunlight. Fescues tend to do well in a bit less sun than other varieties. There are newer cultivars that will create larger clumps, and some that will send limited rhizomes and spread a little bit--but not very much. Most of those, however, will perform best in the 6-10 hours of sun a day range and don't compromise well with deep shade (any yard a person would describe as shady is probably too shady for those). It also depends on where the shade is coming from and how comprehensive it is. Trees will not only create shade, they remove water and other resources from the soil, battling with the grass for them. Buildings don't have large canopies (usually!), leaving the sky open to provide north light, which actually does help a bit. Rye can do reasonably well at the shady end of the range in the sense that it'll tolerate 6 hours of sun per day and even do well on a bit less, but a deep shade environment is not going to be good for it. Bluegrass tends to prefer full sun to part shade (although some of us can manage to make it perform on less, it's a bit of a hassle). For deep shade yards, other choices might be better, like groundcover that will grow well in shade....See MoreCarrie Weingartz
4 years agolaceyvail 6A, WV
4 years agoDig Doug's Designs
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCarrie Weingartz thanked Dig Doug's Designs
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