A cleaner with ammonia in it will cut thru wax. Try spraying Windex, or buy some "sudsy ammonia" in the cleaning supply aisle of your local grocery.

Hello all, Thought I might chime in. What do I need to do after the final coat of finish is applied? The first 7 days are the most critical after applying Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes. Please adhere to the following practices: After the last coat is applied, we advise staying off the floor for at least 24 hours. After this time, the floor may be used for sock traffic only. No shoes or bare feet (oils from the skin may dull the surface). Â During the first 7 days keep room/ambient temperature above 70 degrees Fahrenheit if possible. Continue to cross-ventilate the room to help replenish the required oxygen needed to cure the finish. Â Avoid common household spills in newly finished rooms for the first 7 days (cleaning spills with cleaners may damage or dull the finish as the film has not obtained its full chemical resistance properties). Â Red rosin paper or non-abrasive throw rugs can be used in high traffic areas after 48 hours but should be removed each night, as the finish needs direct oxygen exposure to cure. Â After 7 days, (depending on drying conditions) replace furniture and throw rugs. Be sure to use felt pads on the bottom of all furniture to help prevent scratching of the finish. Some woods, such as American cherry and pine, oxidize themselves and will naturally darken during the first month. To achieve a consistent color across the entire floor, you may not want to place area rugs on the floor during this period. We recommend that you consult the wood manufacturer. Â Since the final cure of the finish occurs after 30-90 days, we recommend using caution for this period of time. How often will I need to re-coat my Waterlox Original Tung oil surface? Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are penetrating oil finishes, that when applied and allowed to dry as per our recommendations will form a film that is tough enough to be used and walked/worked on. Re-coating will depend on wear, use and type of use. The beauty is that you can clean the floor with TSP and water, perform a clear water rinse and reapply more of the Waterlox Original Tung Oil finish that was your last coat. This may be anywhere between 7-10 years in a residence. To spot repair/maintain other more used areas, please refer to our maintenance section. How are Waterlox Tung Oil products different from other finishes? Waterlox Tung Oil Products are a unique blend of Tung oil (pressed from the nut of the Tung tree), phenolic resin (also known as Bake-A-Lite), mineral spirits and driers. This formula is heated (polymerized) into a varnish that gives the user all the attributes of a natural oil finish with the durability of modern finishes. Raw oils or Danish oils: While Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes contain a superior drying oil, Tung Oil, they are not drying oils; they are fully cooked varnishes, which dry quicker and form permanent films tough enough to walk on and take daily abuse. Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are also waterproof and chemical resistant (alcohol and alkali), while raw oils and Danish oil will water spot. Raw oils will also remain tacky until dry, are usually not recommended for use on floors. Linseed oil: Waterlox provides deeper penetration to seal wood fibers beneath the surface. Waterlox is waterproof and will not water spot like linseed oil, nor will it yellow like pure linseed or linseed oil modified coatings. Solvent or water-based urethanes: Urethanes sit on top of the wood surface. To properly use a urethane product, sanding is required for adhesion purposes and to touch-up any imperfections. Waterlox never requires sanding for adhesion and touch-ups can be done at any time without sanding. Waterlox forms a protective finish that won't chip, peel, crack or wrinkle. Hope this helps, Chip Schaffner - Waterlox

In the old days people would often shellac a floor, buff with steel wool, apply wax and buff. I've done a few floors with wax over poly, generally for people who wanted wax maintenance with a little more water resistance than wax provides. It's likely to be very slippery and then needs to be maintained like wax finish, which most people don't want because you either have to own/rent a buffer or hire a professional. In addition you wouldn't be able to recoat the poly after waxing.

Good luck. You might try to dilute the New Beginning (or a substitute) to find the weakest solution that will do the job. The chemicals in the stripper can damage wood so don't flood the floor or leave it too long. That's why I recommend doing small areas by hand. The better your polyurethane surface finish is, the less likely it is for the stripper to get into the wood. We were using a commercial non-ammoniated stripper but the OTC Armstrong product worked better on the last one we did.