Several panel and sub panel questions
gallagher0001
4 years ago
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gallagher0001
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Installing a 100A sub panel off a 200A main panel
Comments (7)Thanks to sierraeast for straightening my goof-up out & Bill,that's a pretty good detailed work-up about what I've got planned. I'm going to study it at length,but you confirmed my basic original thoughts about how to accomplish this. Your charts and guidlines will be very helpful as I fine tune this. The point about installing the panel in the garage/interior wall cavity was a great heads-up....I was going to do just that. If I surface mount the sub panel in the garage on top of the firerock(perhaps in a firerock plenum) then I should be OK ? I had planned to run all the garage wiring in conduit anyway. I should add the additional rooms(12' firewall between the garage/shop & living area) will be 8' ceiling height in an area that is 12' tall(this leaves a 3&1/2' loft/storage area above those rooms). This will also make those areas easier to wire/insulate/& run HIVAC plumbing. Thanks very much for the information.... back to the drawing board..LOL...Dave...See MoreInstalling a 100A sub panel off a 200A main panel?
Comments (5)Questions?-- We are converting it to a dwelling by adding 3 BR & 2 baths which leaves a 24x32 shop/garage in the back 1/3 of the structure.All the wiring already installed is in flexable conduit,but the 200A panel is up front & I want to rework the 70A sub panel by installing a 100A panel about 40' back from the 200A main and replace the existing 70A breaker with a 100A to feed the new sub panel. Whether you can protect the #4 individual conductors (I'm assuming they're THHN) with a 100A breaker is "iffy" because it may depend on local code interpretations. In some jurisdictions you can use #4 for 100 amps for indoor subpanels. In others you'd need to upsize to #3 copper. (The latter would be true where I live, BTW.) Best to check with your AHJ (authority having jurisdiction--the local permit/inspections office) to be sure. This will allow me to make short runs to feed the additional rooms and have the panel in the shop/garage where I want to have a 220V welder plug close to the 100A sub panel.I'm trying to avoid making all those homeruns from the front of the building to the back as well as having control over the shop feeds right in the shop area. Makes sense to me. The existing 70A sub panel is three #4 separate copper (AWG) wires...Will this feed the 100A sub panel? I also have a good amount of #3 copper of the same type,if that will be better. If I had sufficient #3 on hand, that's what I'd use. (If I'm interpreting your info correctly, you'll be moving the subpanel further to the rear of the building. Thus, I'm also factoring in the advantage of not having to splice the old wires in an junction box located in the middle of the run. However, I'm not certain I understand your plan. When say "rework", does that mean you'd leave the existing 70A subpanel in place and have it feed a second subpanel? Or do you plan to move it altogether? Just want to be sure...) Would it be better(correct) to run 4 wires (H-H-N-G) or 3 wires? This is all inside the structure. Yes, it would be better (correct) to use 4 wires with separate neutral and grounding conductors. So called 3-wire feeds are legal only in certain circumstances for detached buildings. But even in that context, they are being phased out by the 2008 National Electric Code. The grounding conductor can be smaller than the hots and neutral. In this case you should be able to use #8 bare or green, although that's also worth verifying with your AHJ. Whether you reuse the old subpanel or buy a new one, when wiring a 4-wire feed, you need to fully separate the neutral (grounded) conductor from the grounding conductor. The neutral feed and all branch neutrals should land on the neutral bar. The grounding conductor and all branch equipment grounds should connect to a separate ground bar. (You may have to purchase a ground bar separately--usually under $10.) You also need to remove any bonding connector from the neutral bar to the box and/or......See MoreSub Panel - Sizing Questions
Comments (30)The load to be served is well defined at this point. If the OP adds more large equipment that requires power and needs to run more than one piece of equipment at a time (beyond a dust collector and a single tool) he can always upgrade the feed. There are significant economies of scale in purchasing things like 100 A panels instead of 60 A. They make a lot more 100 A panels, and while it is overkill for a 60 A feed it is not in violation of any code in feeding it with less. I have even fed 200 amp panels with 100 amp feeds for large workshops. The ability to have plenty of circuits each on separate breakers has advantages. I would not install a main lug panel unless it was adjacent to the panel feeding it. It is worth the few $$ for a main breaker in the sub. The only time you need to wander over to the main is if you are working on the feed to the sub. Work in the sub can be done with the main at the sub turned off, leaving opnly the input to the main breaker hot....See MoreMain panel and sub panel just under two bedrooms, EMF level high
Comments (8)I suggest you try a medical forum (perhaps one that deals with alternative facts). There's nothing we can do to help with your neuroses in an electrical forum. The PANEL is not going to be a source: 1. It's pretty well shielded. 2. It's a small radiating area. The issue is the wiring. These are almost always unshielded in most areas (type NM or the like) and they are long and provide a much bigger radiating area (especially necessary when you're talking something extremely low frequency like household current). Any electrician can tell you the coupling/radiation from a long wire is pretty easily detectible. Inside a panel (even with the cover off) not so much. So if you are really in a panic, use metal conduit or MC cabling....See Moregallagher0001
4 years agoRon Natalie
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