Help thinking through roof runoff landscaping
l pinkmountain
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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l pinkmountain
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
roof run-off
Comments (13)There are few plants on my property. Maybe 15, not counting weeds that need removed. Those are mostly palms of some kind, and sage. There are a few native shrubs. There is an orange, if it wasn't killed in the cold weather recently. The main and only reason for spending any money on harveting and storing rainwater is to fill the pool/pond. Until the asphalt roof is replaced, I would not use that water in the house. The pool has about 13000 gallons, and water is expensive in the desert. If I can use rain to top the pool off with, it would be worth the time, energy, and money needed to build a system. Ella...See Morecan a bog garden survive major rainwater runoff?
Comments (1)You'll probably get some differing opinions on this but I myself would go for it. The amount of water isn't going to matter nearly as much as the quality (very low nutrient/mineral content/low to neutral ph) and the medium you use. I would alter the mix to be a little less water retentive, use more sand. I might also give it a bit more drainage. As long as it's full sun and the water doesn't actually disturb roots or really pool for very long periods of time I'll bet you'll be ok. I had a bog that got lots of runoff and groundwater, not ideal because it's hard to keep conditions constant, but do-able. Remember, fertilize the lawn once and it runs in there you lose the whole bog in one fell swoop. I'm assuming CP or similar acid bog since you mentioned low nutrient....See MoreHelp! Mud/dirt patches and indentations caused by roof runoff
Comments (2)Yeah, definitely pavers or a load of bull rock considering all the baby & dog traffic, plus shade & runoff....See MoreRock/gravel suggestion to contain water runoff from roof
Comments (5)The first point about grading has been well made by pinkmountain: that the ground must slope away from the house. Beyond that, the conventional (tried and true) method is to create a planting bed, the front-to-back depth of which must be realistic in order to accommodate the actual growth of plants, and be maintainable. This is probably in the 5' to 8' range. In no case would I make it less than 4' and this is being stingy. Then plant, but not necessarily SMOTHER with plants. You just need a good design. And then mulch a couple of inches depth. I think it's a mistake to make mulch areas that are intended to stay plant free as this means annual (at least) top dressing of mulch to cover the sun-bleached mulch, and often mulch will move about/wash in a heavy rain storm. It's easier to let plants hold the ground in place and eventually be finished with adding any more mulch. Also, a sea of plants looks better than a sea of mulch. While you can use gravel as mulch (and many people do) I don't personally care for it as it makes any future changes to the landscape much more difficult. The conventional way is easier and more forgiving. Gravel mulch can make a certain artistic statement, but this is better conceived in the initial planning stage of the yard, or with the knowledge of grade details....See MoreYardvaark
4 years agol pinkmountain
4 years agoYardvaark
4 years agol pinkmountain
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoYardvaark
4 years agol pinkmountain
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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