Shaw Floor - how do we fix this ?
We had Shaw floors installed - floating floors not glued.
We had some issues with contractors front the start of install. First - we were told they would be installed last and he insisted they were being installed and would be covered and would be fine - needed to keep moving with project. I know better - now.
So - he had floors installed even though he knew there was a problem with our back door ( water leaking in ) and that needed to be fixed . He said it would get done - not too worry - it was all going to be done right. Guys fixed door in a hurry so Floor could be installed. Floors installed ( other issues occurred Which are in another post) and finally covered. Well we noticed a little later water was sleeping in through back door- pulled paper up and our floors had popped up . Water had gotten to boards and destroyed several boards. They removed damaged boards and reinstalled. Fast forward several months later - now we have a board popping up. It was the last board that was placed when they replaced floors by back door.
When we pulled us rest of paper off the floors much later - We also noticed a lot of splintering and other issues. Inspector was sent out and determined splinters due to poor installation but easy fix ( which will require maintenance in future from us but easy ). There were 3 boards that should not have been used and inspector said they need to be replaced - she didn’t know who responsibility would fall on but said they should have been set aside since we had other Boards that could have been used
So - contractor sends someone out to fix floor board that is popped up, the one with huge splinter and the small splinters.
The installer tells me he would not recommend removing boards bc we may have same issue with floor boards popping up. He said he would use adhesive on one popping up and would try to fill in other boards .
He said we still may have a chance the board by back door will pop up again.
I am so angry. We paid a lot of money for our floors and now Bc of contractors mistake - we have to live with a board that may keep popping up ! This of course would not have happened if he would have waited to install floors once back door was properly installed.
Now for the board with huge splinter - inspector recommended replacing bc it’s near a wall and said it would be dangerous if it were not fixed .
Installed states he would try to fill it in and we should just leave it as well bc again - removing Boards then replacing them could just make it worse ( floor boards popping up ).
I don’t know what I should accept? Even though we paid this contractor to properly do the work - bc he didn’t now we have to live with a board popping up ? Or is it possible to fix it and not have that happen?
We have already paid him in full - not like we can withhold money.
And yes this is not a great contractor- he tells us this and that is fix but he obviously doesn’t know what is he real solution . And he does not communicate well with his subs. I can’t do anything about that anymore.
Would it be best to hire an actual floor installer to repair the mistakes he made ? The person he sent it to repair our floor is not the same sub he originally had install the floor - I don’t that guys works with him anymore.
I will add pictures .
Here is one board - it was a mistake by Shaw - but being told we had enough Boards so installer should not have used it . I don’t know if you can tell but it’s missing the actual Hickory floor. A huge piece is missing and whatever is underneath is actually what is stained
Where my finger is pointing is where veneer or top layer is missing ? Is it ok to leave it? It under a table.
Comments (11)
dabjg
4 years agoBoard that is popping up. So contractor said he would replace that board and all other to wall .
dabjg
4 years agoThis is the one inspector sent out by Shaw said needs to be replaced bc it’s a hazard. In walkway and would be dangerous as it gets worse.
There is another picture in relation to how far it is from wall.
Related Discussions
Lawn is wrecked! how do we fix it?
Comments (6)With an expected first frost of 9/20, it's too late to do a fall seeding. The rule of thumb on that is to seed 6 weeks before the first frost so the grass has a chance to get roots deep enough to survive any frost heaves. 10 days without water shouldn't really kill the lawn, but since you also said you had neglected it before hen, it may have been stressed already. Another question that comes to mind is whether you've tested your irrigation system (I'm assuming a permanent in-ground system here). A lot of people tend to take a "set it and forget it" approach to them, but sometimes a head will get damaged and need replacing. It's a good idea to test the system once a month or so. Turn each station on and check to see if each head is popping up and spraying where it should. If I were you, I think I'd do a dormant seeding. Are you looking for a traditional lawn or something a little less traditional that will use a lot less water? I'm going to assume a traditional lawn, since that's what most people want. For Colorado, your best bet will be Kentucky bluegrass (not that Kentucky 31 sounds like it might be kentucky bluegrass but is actually an unimproved tall fescue variety; it's hardy, but it has wide leaves and clumps, so it stands out in the lawn). KBG needs a lot of sun, but at higher elevations, it does well in more shade than it would in the rest of the country because the sun that hits is more intense. Get the best quality seed you can. Preferably, something with 0% weed and crop seed. You probably won't find that at a big box store. Check a nursery or online. To dormant seed, wait until it's too cold for the grass to germinate and spread the seed. I like to do it just before the first good snow. In the spring, it will germinate with the water from the snow melt and any random spring showers you may get. You've got time to deal with the weeds now. I usually prefer to spot spray weeds with something containing 2,4D. If they're everywhere, a mass spraying approach may be appropriate this one time....See MoreHelp! How Do We Fix This FUBAR Tile?
Comments (16)If it helps, and it probably doesn't, I have that same tile in my family bathroom, from the p.o.s and it looks like it was installed during a hurricane. The sheets were not well matched up, so some tile is close to the next sheet and some have a wide divide. The black squares are twisted in many places (and not even full squares where they should be in some) and the entire surface is rippled and hilly. I cannot wait to rip it all out and it is sad because the tile itself is not at fault. They used white (at the time) grout and it did not age well either. I have bleached the heck out of it, but it still never gets fully white next to the white of the tile. The advice about charcoal grout is 100% right. I have had people suggest we DIY some of our tile work to save money and there is no way in hell I would risk using nice tile and installing it improperly. I am game to try paint and other simple things (because frankly, no one will be as careful about a smooth surface as I will). The installation with tile is more than half the outcome and there is little margin for error. I'd take a picture of Bill's floor and show it to your builder....See MoreI just found out this cracked porcelaine floor tile, how do we fix it?
Comments (2)Hopefully that is an impact crack and not a problem with the subfloor. Removing and replacing the tile is the way to make it look "perfect". So long as the edges aren't dangerous, cracked tiles are welcome to be left in place (until they become dangerous). The grout on that tile also needs repair. I would check the entire floor to ensure you are not seeing the beginning of a failing tile floor. Failing tile can be seen with ++ cracked grout or multiple tiles that are looking stressed (fine cracks in the body of the tile that have yet to crack all the way through like the tile you show in your photos). A quick inspection of the entire floor will tell you whether or not a repair is even worth it. A tile floor that is in the beginning stages of failure is not worth repairing. I'm hoping Joseph will pop by to offer any suggestions for "filler" that might be used to correct the tile without removing/replacing. I'm a wood/cork flooring pro...which means tiles and stone are not my strong point....See MoreHow do we fix our English Tudor stucco siding?
Comments (7)Vinyl siding is a no to me. I would like to see the whole house from further back but for sure that siding is finished . I agree you will need a stucco pro to see what can be done there....See Moredabjg
4 years agodabjg
4 years agoThis is the flooring we purchased .
We had taped the areas were there was splintering . Since
Then we have had more appear. I plan on calling Shaw but the first time they had someone come out she reported it was due to poor installation. I am sure they will say that again but it was not splintering like that during first inspection
SJ McCarthy
4 years agodabjg
4 years agodabjg
4 years agodabjg
4 years ago
User