Weedyacres, I agree that a good tile installer does a dry layout first to assess the best way to install the tiles to create as little cuts as possible. If the tile installer would have started the diamond design at my door next to the rug area and worked his way forward so that at least the door area had tiles right up against it and most of the rug area did also, the window area would have no gaps and there would only be a 2" gap by the wall opposite the door. That gap would have been covered up by a 1 7/8th diamond cut of the tile in a few areas leaving the 1/8th width between the other tiles. The tile would have not fell out after being glued and having a quarter round on top. The installer started in the middle of the floor and then told me if he did not due the border I would waste so many tiles since he would have to put tiny pieces about 1/4th to 3/4th all along the edges. After he was done, I only saw spaces of 1 3/8th to 1 1/2 spaces at the door so he was wrong. He also forgot about the other wall on the other side of the door not having to have the tiles 1/8th from the wall since a quarter round would be covering the area. He tried so hard and I know I could have never cut those tiles so I feel very bad but in person, the problems were more noticeable. I also did not want a border in such a little area and I had shown him a picture of what I wanted and he told me 1/8th width was no problem for him with the spacers. I wish when the installer asked me where we should start the tiles, I wish I would have told him, let's lay them all out first and then we shall see how they fit and then I would have realized the tiles should start at the door. I was busy with ear plugs on trying to work but I could not work once he started the border since it was upsetting me. If I had a bigger foyer area, the border would have been nice if it was straight. Once the quarter rounds would have been put back on the sides of the wall, the tiles would have not looked centered anyway and the 3" wide X 12" boards would have not been the same size any more as on the other two walls without the quarter rounds. I now have no tiles and only cement floors blocked by gates but I could not let him do the middle foyer that had 4 doors since I do not feel he knew how to handle doors. Here is a link that might be useful: Album with some pics of the uneven grout lines mainly due to putting a border in that I did not want that created more cuts of the tile making it busier

Samantha, Absolutely, lack of expansion joints could have also been the part of the problem, which is unrelated to grout joint size. When installing, manufacturer instructions comes first, then the standards second if there is missing or conflicting information and instruction. If there is a failure, an inspector (or a court) will first use manufacturer specs and instructions, because they are the liable responsible party in a claim, so their information takes presidence. Thats what installer must follow first if there is conflict, and if there is missing information, the TCNA/ANSI standards come in. Now, many manufacturers refer to the TCNA/ANSI standards. Additionally, some manufacturers do not offer all needed information which then the TCNA/ANSI standards kick in. Every installer should be well versed in both. There are many tile and stone manufacturers who still allow for ultra thin grout joints. In regards to the standards changes you mention in grout joint sizes, indeed the TCNA/ANSI has made recommendations for the first time concerning grout joint size and spacing. To completely understand the new changes you have to understand how recommendations are made. When they say "in general", these are not absolute standards. Simply guidance lacking any other source taking presidence. When they say "absolute", these are standards that are never to be strayed from. The new changes on grout joint width is an "in general recommendation" or situational recommendation. Ultimately, the project owner should choose the grout joint they desire. -from the TCNA website. Please view the TCNA link for more information. It explains it pretty well. If you have tile cut or manufactured to tight size tolerances, you can have any joint size you wish. Of course, as I stated before, not all tile is able to be installed with the ultra thin grout joints. Again this is situational. There is no absolute standard for tile joint width. Tile it is a finish topical product, relying on the subfloor/framing/substrate structure for rigidity and in-range deflection for its stability and structure. Now if you continue to believe otherwise, that the tile system itself aides in overall system stability and structural integrity and/or that grout joint size matters at all when tile sizing is withing parameters, I really dont know how else to convince you. Since this obviosuly matters a great deal to you, I would suggest you buy a copy of the standards. Its relatively inexpensive. Then you can read for yourself in context. Also I would suggest that you start reading up on tile manufacturers installation guidelines and instruction for various products you may be interested in, as they take presidence, although they usually are in line with the standards. Here is a link that might be useful: TCNA Standards For Grout

Bear in mind that 1/8" is the "break point" about sanded vs unsanded grout. Either will work, but sanded is preferred as it fills better and shrinks less. Personally, I like "prism" from Home Depot as it fills from a sixteenth to a half inch. Traditionally, you rack up 5 or 10 tiles on edge and measure any variation. That variation should be multiplied by three for the optimal grout width. 1/8" variation means 3/8" grout line.....

Staceyneil, Thank you for your input. The tile is rectified and a 4 rating and has this taupe bevel around it. I am still not sure what the bevel is for. I just felt less than 1/32nd grout width especially since I had wanted to install the tiles in the running bond method could cause problems. Both installers seem to feel my concrete slab floor is fairly flat but I am sure it is not 100% flat since the place is around 21 years of age and I already see a crack in the concrete near the sliding door when I lift the ripped Linoleum floor up. The tile is discontinued so it is so difficult to find much on the tile but I did find out the Ilva 18" X 1" Porcelain tile was rectified and when I measured several tiles, they all seem to be a 17.25" X 17.25" perfect square. Amazingly Ilva calls the tile White but it is more beige, grayish ivory, taupe, touch of reddish beige with gray veins.