I did it in both of my garages. Its well worth it in my opinion. I bought the paint and sealer through Sherwin Williams commercial division. The cost was about $500 (wholesale)I think. Prep is extremly important. You can find all the applicication details on the internet. I used grey epoxy with multi colored specs with clear coat over it all. DO NOT use some cheap store brand paint. It will wear off quickly due to warm tires. Pay more...get more.

Wonderful! But don't bless us until after the job has been declared a success! We're going to stick with our 5/4x4 recommendation. Historically porches are usually x4 as well. It is a little "busier", but two weeks after install you won't notice or think about it. (Along with the bathroom faucets, door knobs and everything else it's so easy to hyper focus on when building a new home... this comes from personal experience) All the following jobs Miami/Bahamas/Sarasota/Palm Springs were slapped down on grade and the customers (against recommendation) went with 5/4x6 and it worked out ok.... but those are your dice to roll. Spacers definitely aren't going to hurt anything. The more height you can squeeze out of it the better off you will be. The fascia board.... its both a drainage and ventilation issue. I would defer to a builder and code on this one, but intellectually here's the logic. If you bring up the stone right to the bottom edge of the deckboards then drill weep holes you're basically closing in the edge of the porch tight with little room for airflow with the exception of the weep holes. Instead, if you bring the stone up to the edge of the concrete then extend your porch and sleepers just a little beyond the edge of the concrete/stone then have a fascia board (like in the photo you posted from Dalrymple Sallis Architecture) the air will flow up behind the board then under the deck for the entire length of the face of the porch instead of just at the weep holes. Additionally, though probably not necessary, it would also afford you the opportunity to add vents into the fascia. Not very aesthetically pleasing, but if you're planning on adding landscaping in front like bushes/shrubs then they may end up hidden anyway......

<https://www.diydecormom.com/benjamin-moore-balboa-mist/>    Balboa was perfect for an earlier post. Not sure if it was BM or SW....but this is something no one has suggested: Color and Wood Tone: How to Choose Colors That Go Together Use these tips to find the best paint colors and finishes to complement your wood furniture and trimwork around the house. Whether your furnishings are Mission-style oak, country pine, or high-style mahogany, the beauty of the wood deserves a background that shows it to best advantage. The question, however, is not really what color goes with oak or mahogany, but rather, what color will best enhance your wood's finish. Don't Get Too Matchy-Matchy Develop a natural, evolved look in your home with items that go together comfortably but do not match exactly. Each type of wood has a characteristic color and grain pattern, and the color also can be altered with stain. Furniture makers have used stains and varnishes for centuries, both to enhance the appearance of the grain and to change the color of the wood. The stains sold at home improvement centers are generally named for the types of wood they simulate: Maple, cherry, walnut, mahogany, ebony, oak, and fruitwood are the most common types. Over time, wood furnishings acquire a rich patina that gives the surface depth and complexity. Newer woods and veneers may lack this complexity, but they still have an overall color tone that may be yellow, orange, red-brown, bluish brown, or dark brown. To choose wall colors or fabrics that will enhance your wood pieces, consider the dominant hues in the finish. Also consider whether you prefer the drama of high contrast or the richness of low-contrast pairings. Don't worry about all the wood pieces in a room matching -- the casual, comfortable, gathered-over-time look of mixed woods is perfectly appropriate today. Use Contrast to Call Attention Dark finishes, such as mahogany, walnut, or cherry, stand out in sharp relief against any light color, whether it's a tint of green or blue or a hue from the sunny side of the color wheel. In the same way, light wood shows up boldly against dark or strong color on the walls. The contrast calls more attention to the furniture, a plus if you have a fine piece you want to focus on. If you have a lot of dark furniture in a light-color room, however, the space may feel busier than it would if the furniture blended in. If you love the look of dark wood against light walls (or light furniture against dark walls), keep furniture arrangements orderly and streamlined to offset the impression of crowding. To achieve high contrast with medium-tone finishes, keep the wall color soft and light, creating as much difference as possible between the values of the wood color and the wall. You can also use the colors in the furniture finish as a cue for wall colors. If the dominant color in the wood appears to be red, then a green background will enhance and intensify the wood's hue. <https://www.bhg.com/decorating/color/basics/color-and-wood-tone/>    I think you should consider: https://kellymoore.com/company/press-room/press-release-detail/2017/10/11/2018-color-of-the-year

Densifiers are used to seep into pours of the concrete (the spaces left behind when the water evaporated) leaving behind a silicon product that is more than a surface application (it seeps down into the concrete...not very far but far enough). We have this on the showroom floor where I work. They scuff (but do not scratch). They still stain. They still loose their gloss when objects are dragged across them. But they can be polished up again. Here's the write up of one such product: https://www.wrmeadows.com/en-ca/liqui-hard-canada/ Notice they say it "improves" resistance (but does not STOP) chemical intrusion (staining). It improves abrasion resistance (but does not stop it). Once the densifier is applied, you may not be able to apply another permanent floor down over top (like tile....nothing will grab the top layer of the concrete). A floating floor would be one of the only ways you could add a different floor over top of this. Just be aware of what you are signing up for when it comes to a permanent concrete finish. It has been my experience (6.5 years in the flooring industry) that concrete floors get "covered up" inside of 7 years. As for my costs above...it should be noted that I'm in Canada...in a SUPER HOT market with VERY FEW high-level professionals. The minimum wage in my area is almost $13/hr. Many parts of Canada are going to reach $15/hr for someone to work at a Tim Hortons. As soon as you have a skill of any sort you start making $20 - $30/hr very quickly. Our plumbers/electricians bill out at $180/hr (Red Seal) which is MORE than a Family Doctor is allowed to bill the Canadian Health Care system. Makes you think about a 'trade' doesn't it?