Delta MS will not address your water table. My recommendation is the following. french drains. not the 4'' ads pipe its crap. Use 3" pvc perf. and 16"w by 26" deep poly sump pits. my rule of thumb is one pump and pit per 100 feet of footing drains. Sump pump of choice is a Zoeller. if you have a block foundation weep holes should be drilled. Now my method is a very old one and reliable. This is more a water management system and if maintaned well your basement will stay dry. If your hire a reputable company a job which i described should only take a few days. Here are the downsides to anything down on the exterior. first is the price. if this product isnt covering every square inch its a waste of your hard earned money and most the time the guarantee isnt worth the paper its typed on. Also any exterior work is going to be very extensive meaning, and landscaping will have to be removed, decks will have to be taking down, porches will nedd to be removed and re built, the list goes on and on. Now the dangers. removing all the earth around your home down to your footing and pushing it all back in when the job is down can result in the basement walls caving in and your home collapsing. A lot of these waterproofers who do the exterior stuff almost never tell the customers about these facts. I know from experience, it happened to us when we used to do the exterior drains. its just not worth it. As for the pumps in your basement you can set them high so they only pump when they have to. Hope this was helpful to you. good luck in your new home

Venomous snakes have a triangular shaped head (from ears to nose) and non venomous snakes have a more rounded (or spoon shaped) head. Your construction snake looks like a black king snake. They eat rats. They are your friends. We had one living in a tree hole next to our porta potty during construction. Black king snake, non venomous, rounded head: Timber rattlesnake, venomous, triangular head: Rattlesnake that got in my way (54", 9 rattles). My sister told me how to skin it. My DH would not even touch it. He's hanging in the den now (the snake, not DH...although.... ;) ) Really ticks me off when he kills the non venomous snakes in our yard. We have a large garter snake living near our front veranda. He is eating my frogs, which is bothering me, but I told DH not to kill him. 15yo boy down the street shot/killed a 13 rattlers snake taller than he is a few weeks ago.

Unfortunately the answer to both of your questions is "No". All fixture discharging into a sewage ejector receptor Must Be vented in the usual manner as defined for DWV applications prior to discharging into the receiver. The only exception to this rule is in the case of certain fixtures such as dedicated up-flush toilets that have a built in sewage ejector system. Sewage ejector pumps occupy a totally separate section of the code and the restrictions are firm. Technically speaking a sewage ejector pump should be more aptly called a "Lift Station" because the code requires a number of features in addition to the pump itself. First of all, a sewage ejector pump MUST BE housed in an approved watertight enclosure that is equipped with a removable service access cover and a separate vent through the roof of the structure. This vent may not be combined with any other venting within the structure. Sewage ejector pumps may or may not be equipped with a macerator however only pumps specifically manufactured for the purpose of a sewage ejector may be used. If the pump is not equipped with a macerator feature the pump must be capable of passing 2" diameter solids. By definition a macerator is a grinder feature that can reduce solids to slurry before passing through the pump. Under the International Residential Code (IRC 3007.1) the minimum permissible discharge rate of a sewage ejector pump must be 1.9ft/sec, which is equal to 14.2gal/min. Under the International Residential Code the gravity flow drain receiving the discharge from a sewage ejector pump must be sized at the rate of 1.5DFUs for each GPM of the pump. This means the minimum DFU load of a sewage ejector pump would be 14.2gpm x 1.5DFU = 21.3DFUÂs. Under the Uniform Plumbing code (UPC 710.3.1) the minimum permissible discharge rate of a sewage ejector pump must be 20gal/min. Under the Uniform Plumbing code (UPC 710.5) the gravity flow drain receiving the discharge from a sewage ejector pump must be sized at the rate of 2 DFUÂs for each GPM of the pump. Under the Uniform Plumbing code the minimum DFU load would be 20gpm x 2DFU = 40 DFUÂs. When combining the discharge of a sewage ejector pump with an existing drain we must first determine the existing load on that said drain line, then add the DFU load of the pump to determine the combined aggregate load. Under the IRC the maximum number of DFUÂs permitted on a 3" branch line is 20DFUÂs while the minimum output of a sewage ejector would be 21.3DFUÂs. Therefore the sewage ejector pump discharge itself would be greater than the total load permitted on a 3" branch line, never mind the pre-existing load on that line. A 3" Main drain or building sewer is rated for a maximum of 36DFU while the sewage ejector is rated at 21.3DFUÂs therefore the pre-existing load on the 3" main drain may not exceed 14.7DFUÂs. Now considering that a bathroom group is 6DFU, a kitchen is 3DFUÂs and a laundry is 3DFUÂs. If the house has more than one bathroom and a 3" main drain or sewer you would be required to increase the size of the main drain and sewer line to add a sewage ejector pump. In your case your Main Drain and sewer are 4", which is rated for a maximum of 180DFUÂs so if you install a sewage ejector you will be required to connect it directly to the 4" main drain line. While the UPC assigns slightly different DFU values to the lines and fixtures in the final analysis it works out the same way.

I disagree with bus_driver. First, Having an sewer ejector pit 'roughed in' for 'future use' without an actual sewer ejector being specified and installed at that time could have and should have been approved by the plumbing inspectors if it met code in 2004 and if the rough plumbing was done according to the approved construction plans. Second, there are two different types of sewer ejectors: A) Mechanical Ejectors and B) Pneumatic Ejectors. The 1st type, mechanical sewer ejectors, usually only require a 1 1/2" vent pipe, and this vent can be connected to the plumbing vent system for the building without going directly through the roof. The second type, pneumatic sewer ejectors, usually require 2" vents that must be vented directly to outside air. That said, whatever type sewer ejector you are now trying to install must be installed to current codes and to the manufacturer's installation instructions. Seems to me your current ejector is not compatible with the existing vent system, so you have two options: 1) Install an ejector (mechanical type) that is compatible or 2) Install the venting required for your apparently current (and possibly pneumatic) type.